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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 12:32 PM
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Default Buffing question

The hard top I just got has some surface scratches and the body man told me that buffing would take them out. What type of buffer and what compound should I get to do this?
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 02:08 PM
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If it isn't something you are familiar with, I would opt to let a good Detail guy take care of it. You can drop some $$$ on buffing materials.

If you insist on doing it yourself. Get a variable speed buffer, foam 3M pads, and Wet/Dry sandpaper in multiple grits. Compound and sandpaper would depend on what the surface looks like. Take a look at AutoGeek.com to get a idea on what the materials will cost you.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 02:49 PM
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Sanding is your absolute last resort plain and simple.

You can try any compound and do it by hand to see where you get.

Post some pics so we can see what you're working with.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 03:01 PM
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If you are not able to do that type of buffing. You can make matters much worse than it is. Try a good polish be hand first if you must try on you own.Other wise leave it to a professional.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FRANK J CARCIA
If you are not able to do that type of buffing. You can make matters much worse than it is. Try a good polish be hand first if you must try on you own.Other wise leave it to a professional.


You just might be $$ ahead letting a pro do it! Good Luck!
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FRANK J CARCIA
If you are not able to do that type of buffing. You can make matters much worse than it is. Try a good polish be hand first if you must try on you own.Other wise leave it to a professional.
I agree with the handwork being the best approach. A pro working a job needs production to pay the bills, a shade tree guy needs to avoid mistakes.

Power tools make mistakes easy in the wrong hands, and correcting a mistake would mean adding material , and a repaint is not the primary goal. IF you were working an RV with a lot of problems, my answer would be different.

I am greatly influenced in my response by the surfaces I have seen and a hand polish is always the final step on presentation work and fine optics.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 04:48 PM
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this is the best buffer to use per Neil from Chadwick's (he has been detailing cars for over 40 years).

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...eywords=buffer

and when his Paint Correction System hits the Market (less than 2 weeks) you can not hurt your car with his system and the buffer mentioned !!
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by akapounder
this is the best buffer to use per Neil from Chadwick's (he has been detailing cars for over 40 years).

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...eywords=buffer

and when his Paint Correction System hits the Market (less than 2 weeks) you can not hurt your car with his system and the buffer mentioned !!
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:00 PM
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Get someone who knows what they're doing to fix it. The last thing you want is someone "buffing it out" for you. If they use that terminology, run.

To answer your question, I've had good luck using a Rupes 21 polisher with Menzerna FG400 on a microfiber pad to remove defects. To actually polish it after, I use Sonax perfect finish on a foam pad.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by akapounder
this is the best buffer to use per Neil from Chadwick's (he has been detailing cars for over 40 years).

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...eywords=buffer

and when his Paint Correction System hits the Market (less than 2 weeks) you can not hurt your car with his system and the buffer mentioned !!
The PC doesn't have enough power
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:10 PM
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get a FLEX polisher and some Wolfgang Uber compound.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:21 PM
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I'm a former professional painter and instructor. Your question reveals your lack of knowledge about the subject. (no offense meant) If the rest of the car looks good and doesn't need "buffing", pay to have the tops done. I would only recommend that you start buying tools and supplies if you expect to do the whole car (or other parts of it).

If you decide to forego a hand-polishing (or hand application) method for pneumatic or electric, you should absolutely insist on a dual-orbiting (aka, "random-orbiting" or "dual-action") polisher (or buffer). You DON'T want an "orbiting" (aka "single-action" or "single orbit") polisher/buffer.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Black 02
The PC doesn't have enough power
??????
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:41 PM
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Two weeks? We have to wait two weeks? Ok
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by akapounder
??????
It has a short throw compared to some of the newer polishers so it takes much longer to accomplish the same results.

Here is one with a little more oomph

https://www.detailersdomain.com/coll...s-lhr21-markii

In all honesty though, I prefer the Flex on a car that is curvy like a C5, at least for the cutting stage. The forced rotation really helps move you along where as the PC or Rupes systems are easy to stall out.

Last edited by Black 02; Jun 9, 2016 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by FRANK J CARCIA
If you are not able to do that type of buffing. You can make matters much worse than it is. Try a good polish be hand first if you must try on you own.Other wise leave it to a professional.
I

I tried polishing it out, but did no good. I told the body man I wanted him to do it, but just wanted to know if it was an easy fix. I just got the top back a few months ago and really didn't notice it to much until I got it in the sun and it shows a lot more. He says he can take it out and that's good enough for me.

Thanks a lot guys, just wanted some input on it.
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