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Got the ebtcm fixed, silicone and back in. Waiting for the new methanol injector and found I need to tap the white and black wires on the aem 4 pin plug. Going to add a female t tap to each wire and then plug them into port 1 and 5 on the hptuners mpvi plug.
Couple pics of ebtcm...
Last edited by tommypenguin; Oct 2, 2016 at 10:38 PM.
Installed the hinson short shifter yesterday, got to take it out for a short 10 minute drive and am really liking it. Mistakenly did a 3rd gear start but aside from that so far liking it. Unfortunately I got the red flag for a few days as I picked up a screw in my rear passenger tire and have to wait for discount to get a replacement.
Made my first tune update via HPTuners to address a hanging idle issue I've had when taking my car out of gear and pulling up to a light. Idle will not go down to what the tune says so until my speed is almost 0mph. To address I tried adjusting my throttle cracker speeds per the video below.
Also if anyone is looking found this a few weeks back, service manuals for the C5 are available online in pdf format, not sure how long they will be there but if you need them here they are...
It's just a little different than when I picked it up.
Got some updates, was a blessing in disguise getting the screw in the tire. Noticed that my rear tires were just barely rubbing against the fender edge. My new wheel/tire setup is 1/4" taller than the old setup. Raised my rear 5 turns on the lowering bolts and reconciled that issue. Going to come back to it and fine tune it a 1/2 turn at a time to get it as low as possible without rubbing. Wide fenders are on my to do list just not sure when.
Fixed my hanging idle issue by making the adjustments in the first video I posted to the throttle cracker settings.
Not sure if idle tuning is like with my legacy gt but after a reflash a best practice was to turn the car on, let it get to operating temperature idle and do a couple of light throttle blips to make sure idle relearns to go back to your set idle rpm. If you didn't do this with legacy gt, the first time or two getting to warm idle your car might die when decelerating to idle speed. I did not follow this but the first time my corvette got to operating temp today and I was approaching a light, the car died. Then afterward I pulled into a parking lot, did a couple blips in a parking spot and haven't had anymore idle dying issues.
I LOVE the hinson short shifter! It takes more effort for sure and if I had to do bumper to bumper rush hour traffic I might grow tired of it. But for weekend warrior driving it is awesome! Throws are so short, having to let off the clutch faster during my shifts because of how much faster the shifter goes into gear. That is all for now, next I plan on lowering my idle speed to chop up my idle a little bit more than it is and potentially leaning out idle a little bit as well if needed.
Made another tune update for idle. Guess my thought on idle needing to relearn is invalid. I had 2 times previously coasting up to a light that my car died after lowering idle and disabling throttle cracker. So the next update I made was to disable deceleration fuel cut off(DFCO), which I had read can reconcile the coasting to idle and dying issue. Have driven about a week with no issues. Will take a new idle video sometime this week, car sounds much meaner than it did now that I've made my tweaks.
Just my opinion, but if you have an AEM Methanol system, get rid of it and go Alky Controll. Any system that tells you on the pump not to run more than a 50/50 mix because it is a combustible mixture is very worried about leaks. Alky Control has no issues with leaks. Just changed one out on a C6 making 850 hp to the rear wheels.
Just my opinion, but if you have an AEM Methanol system, get rid of it and go Alky Controll. Any system that tells you on the pump not to run more than a 50/50 mix because it is a combustible mixture is very worried about leaks. Alky Control has no issues with leaks. Just changed one out on a C6 making 850 hp to the rear wheels.
Am running a cooling mist kit at the moment, am planning on eventually swapping over to alky control kit.
Hoping to have the engine mounts in by this weekend and am going to replace my SC belt while doing this as it has been almost 3 years since I replaced it.
Just completed installing the engine mounts, took notes on a couple of areas throughout the install that will help save time if/when I ever have to do it again. There is information on Intake Manifold, Supercharger, Engine Mount and Upper control arm DIY/Install along with a collection of torque specs.
They are attached in the word document with references for some of my material. Hope they help someone else down the line, if not at least I will have documentation the next time I do this cause I always seem to forget the tricks of the trade by the time I have to do it again.
Last edited by tommypenguin; Mar 8, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
Been a long time since updating this thread. Need to do it so I don't forget. I blew my engine about a year and half ago, piston 3 and 7 had cracked ring lands. I had a methanol injector failure and did not gap my rings for boost during my first rebuild. Also may have had a short to injector 7 pigtail because of a broken wire. School of hard knocks, was determined to do a better job on round 2 and be ultra thorough.
Below are my notes, rebuilt shortblock with with 3.903 Lunati forged pistons-20cc dish, Lunati rods arp 2000 bolts, arp main and head studs and clevite h bearings with rings gapped at .020 for boost. Main and rod bearings clearances set to .020-.021. Switched to ls3 oil pan, notched windage for arp studs to clear, put on c5r timing chain. Put on new 10295 oil pump and aligned it.
Upgraded balancer to a summit one used arp crank bolt, pinned it, btr trunion kit, pac 1218 springs and vengeance cam. Replaced valve guides and intake valves to Manley. Measured ptv at .210. Installed rockers using EOIC method. New ls7 lifters and trays.
Replaced crank position and low oil level sensors. Used new Gaskets throughout, removed ops extension because the braided line leaked. Installed dewitts radiator and spal fans. Replaced all Coolant hoses and Coolant tank. Replaced flywheel with fidanza light weight one, measured for clutch shim. Installed new tr6 plugs and Hinson wires with air gap, new pcv and one way check valve between catch can and IM.
Trimmed supercharger shroud, replaced all tensioner pulleys on supercharger. Had injectors flow tested and cleaned. Replaced pig tail to cylinder 7 fuel injector. Replaced brake lines, switched to oem pads. Running 10w-40 oil. Replaced supercharger oil. Used redline power steering fluid. Added acdelco Coolant dye in case of leaks. Fixed ac not blowing cold by replacing hose from back of IM to pcm. Installed Hinson shorter engine mounts. Did big 3 0 gauge wire upgrade and saw better dic voltage. Switched to speed density tune, picked up Casper harness to break out iat from maf harness.
Just put on corbeau a4 seats. Received tpe 2" wide fenders, ordered forgestar super deep concave 19x12 for the rear to go with some 345 nt05r tires. Also doing a custom lighting project using morimoto profile pivot led switch backs for my signals and headlights.
When I spell this all out I can see why my wife thinks I'm in the garage too much. Stay tuned.
Question - I know its a bit different since your car is a base coupe, but do you dislike the combo of 3.90 gears + supercharger? I have an '03 Z making around 430-440whp on a mustang dyno w/ cam/headers/intake etc. - have a leaky diff vent + axle seals, was thinking of upgrading from the stock 3.42's to 3.90's however knowing that I may very well SC it w/ A&A kit in the future was concerned that combo of ultra short gearing + huge power w/ the SC would make it miserable to drive anywhere but wide open roads/track setting?
I love the way my car feels with its current gears I really enjoy driving the car around town. Don't feel I'm excessively shifting because the gears are too short. I never owned it with the 3.42 so I have no basis for comparison.
