When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got the joke, Bill. Just needed to make sure everyone understands my revulsion of those covers. Many have bought those - not sure how anyone justifies something like that. It's good we all have different taste. Variety is the spice of life - or so I'm told.
You would only know about the spices, if the labels where facing forward... Can you say OCD?
The secret to keeping those rotors looking so good is that they are Baer rotors they are the best
Originally Posted by BAT
Amen to that! The worst part about the painting was I had only a few hours before the paint would set, and no longer be good to apply. Now that they're done, and the pads/rotors are new, I shouldn't have to worry about doing that again, any time soon!
My wife reminds me, often, that I'm not as young as I used to be.... my body reminded me of that last night (and today).
Your car looks great! What's the secret to keeping the rotors looking like that?
Painted my rotors right after I first bought the car, but finally decided to go the powder-coating route several years ago to eliminate the maintenance.
I feel your pain removing the Caliper Bracket Bolts. I tried everything as you did. Tried breaker bar, extender, and even finally bought a more powerful impact wrench - NOTHING! I finally decided that they were "welded" on! Then I read a post which suggested applying "heat" to the bolt heads first. In desperation, I tried that carefully using a Propane torch and they all came out like "butter" with the impact wrench once that red Locktite was softened by the heat. I also replaced my rotors later after I had the powder-coated calipers installed, but switched to using a Heat-Gun over the Torch to help protect the powder coating and that worked just as well. So "heat" is the secret (as Bill suggested).
I also had the Spring Clips pop off when removing the rear rotors, I found that inventing some new profanities helped!
New calipers with old rotors (rotors have since been replaced)...
Overall, I'm not ecstatic about the final product. It's looks good, but I thought it would be better. I may decide to get some high heat rattle can paint, and do them again. This time I'd take them off completely. For now, they'll stay as is.
Painted my rotors right after I first bought the car, but finally decided to go the powder-coating route several years ago to eliminate the maintenance.
I feel your pain removing the Caliper Bracket Bolts. I tried everything as you did. Tried breaker bar, extender, and even finally bought a more powerful impact wrench - NOTHING! I finally decided that they were "welded" on! Then I read a post which suggested applying "heat" to the bolt heads first. In desperation, I tried that carefully using a Propane torch and they all came out like "butter" with the impact wrench once that red Locktite was softened by the heat. I also replaced my rotors later after I had the powder-coated calipers installed, but switched to using a Heat-Gun over the Torch to help protect the powder coating and that worked just as well. So "heat" is the secret (as Bill suggested).
I also had the Spring Clips pop off when removing the rear rotors, I found that inventing some new profanities helped!
New calipers with old rotors (rotors have since been replaced)...
My next step was applying heat.
There's no doubt I invented a few swear words doing this.
Two common things in Corvette maintenance that you need to man up for; the brake brackets, and the crankshaft bolt. Both were pretty easy for me, but I did use a breaker bar.
Two common things in Corvette maintenance that you need to man up for; the brake brackets, and the crankshaft bolt. Both were pretty easy for me, but I did use a breaker bar.
Archimedes apparently never experienced the C5 brake bracket bolts or he would have come to a different conclusion regarding levers!
Way before Archimedes, the first technology was fire...way before the wheel, or the lever
A little fire on those bracket bolts, and like magic, you can use a 1/4 inch ratchet. Work smart, not hard.
Prometheus, for example, stole fire from the heavens ( capturing a lightning strike in a hollow tube, one of the feats which gave him the reputation of being a great benefactor of men.'
After the transportation of fire was solved, it was occasionally borrowed, and while the meaning is lost, the phrase is still used when one says: "May I borrow a light?"'
This issue of fire has always been a part of the earliest cave drawings.
The earliest of these drawings are 40,800 years old. Fire the first technology. I used it to remove my rear caliper brackets.
Just little engineering 101.
I'm not just another pretty face..
Bill aka ET
Leverage built the pyramids, fire cooked the lunch, after leverage was applied... a 3ft pole and a dad bod will loosen any bolt...and maybe a few skirts...
, I had the same problem with the bolts too when I did my rotors, I borrowed an electric impact gun and that did the trick. Not before busting some knuckles.
I did the brakes a while ago....and at my age, used a couple cheaters.
A little stool with wheels and a tray for tools and parts. And an electric and a battery powered impact wrench for stubborn bolts.
I'm still sore after nearly a week. Lesson learned, that's for sure. My last resort would have been some heat, which I should have done anyway. I used a breaker bar, just like this one.
It wasn't easy, and I was a tad angry, so I focused all that energy and busted them all loose. I really hope I never have to do that again. The fronts were a little easier with turning the hubs to the left and right, allowing a better access. The rears.... I was under the rear bumper, using feet, legs, shoulders.... anything!
It wasn't easy, and I was a tad angry, so I focused all that energy and busted them all loose. I really hope I never have to do that again. The fronts were a little easier with turning the hubs to the left and right, allowing a better access. The rears.... I was under the rear bumper, using feet, legs, shoulders.... anything!
I still could not get mine loose with a breaker bar, but then again I was reluctant to apply that much pressure at that distance (my 3-foot Snap-On 1/2" drive breaker bar was already bowing!) - I could just see a bolt head snapping off, a socket cracking, etc. sending my tool through a body panel and me to the ER (I am paranoid after having two Craftsman 5/8" sockets split on me in the past when torquing head bolts on C3's, both times requiring stitches!) - so I knew there had to be a better way!
Once I applied heat, they were easily removed with my impact - even with one hand on the tool.
The red Locktite is needed however on these. In fact they recommend replacing the caliper bracket bolts with new factory replacements (which come pre-coated with a red Locktite type substance) - so that is what I did.
I've actually done this. You can use the weight of the car to break those bolts . by jacking the car up.
Using a ratchet with a small pipe. set the socket on the bolt, and set the ratchet to 45 degrees and have the pipe contact the ground. have the car high enough to lock the ratchet engagement point. Now all you have to do is lower the car, and the weight of the car will break the bolt lose.
You have to have a jack that is well controlled, so you can control the speed of decent.
Can you say OCD?
, I had the same problem with the bolts too when I did my rotors, I borrowed an electric impact gun and that did the trick. Not before busting some knuckles.
I was under the rear bumper, using feet, legs, shoulders.... anything!
