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What a PIA!!!

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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 08:32 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Vettemaster1985
Leverage built the pyramids, fire cooked the lunch, after leverage was applied... a 3ft pole and a dad bod will loosen any bolt...and maybe a few skirts...
Ha Ha Ha,,
The Pyramids were thought to be 2500 years old, new findings places them at 4600 years old..

Fire has be around for 40,000 years. The First Technology. AS I said...
They don't teach this stuff in College by pulling it out of their ***.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 11:06 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Rob 02
^That is thinking. You could put the jack under the breaker bar too.
I actually tried that, but with the ratchet. Started lifting the car off the stands!!
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 12:19 PM
  #43  
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The red Lock-Tight usually requires heat. You can get a bolt hot quick with an arc welder without affecting surrounding parts.

On mine I just had to hit the bolt heads with a hammer to break the threads loose. Then Impact wrench.

Last edited by Rob 02; Jan 7, 2017 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 12:24 PM
  #44  
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This might help for removing the rotor from the shoe next time, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...val-tools.html.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 03:27 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Over the years, I have developed a method of keeping them looking nice... the biggest thing is I use OEM ACDelco soft semi metallic pads... they polish the rotors, and keep the rotor heat down. So many people want Ceramic pads.. why because they dust less.. Ceramic pads are just a buzz word for many manufacturers. They only use enough ceramic to call them ceramic. Ceramic is a hard surface with a very poor frictional coefficient. they require much more pressure to stop and because of this they create a lot of heat. You don't notice the increase in pressure because of the Brake booster.

The other issue is rust. So if you coat the inside of the rotors ( the vane area ) with a high quality VHT paint, coat the holes, etc, your rotors will look like mine. I detail them once a year. along with my calipers and wheel wells.

The soft pads keep the rotors bright and not discolored by heat soak. What little bit of dust I get is whisked away in about 30 seconds a wheel before I put it away. My rotors are two piece, the centers are aluminum with powder coating, my rotors are bigger than stock but lighter than stock .

Keeping a car nice looking is a matter of focus.. the four corners are critical to keeping a car looking good...

I see guys here all the time posting photos of their wheels or tires, and many times I see, filthy dirty wheel wells. which detract so much from a car that is otherwise clean. You can see the underside of the rear, so its an important focus to keep that clean as well.
dirty



clean






Engine bay, and interior , and the over all look of the paint. My paint is much better than a New car finish. for Me Zaino is the reason. It only takes a one time application a year, it last forever, its 99% optically clear and is UV stable, UV rays can take its toll on the clarity and depth of the clear coat. Been using Zaino for 17 years.

MY car is extremely shiny, and I haven't Zaino'd it in over a year. Been very sick


absolutely gorgeous! fine work done there. gives me something to shoot for
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 03:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by BAT
Got into my "to do list" last week (had the week off from work). Started with the easy stuff, like soldering the HVAC so now I have a bright display again!

Installed my stainless vent screens. Super easy and I took the advise of several members and used Velcro so removal for cleaning will be easy. I picked up two packages of oval shaped, low profile self stick Velcro in the craft department of the local Walmart. Cost was less than $5.

Now, for the PIA!!! Yesterday I figured I'd end vacation with doing my pads, rotors and painting my calipers. Jacked the car up onto my jack stands. Removed all the wheels. Removed the caliper bolts and moved the calipers. Now the @!@**$^@%^! part!!! The damn bracket bolts wouldn't budge! Tried a ratchet, hit it with my hand, then a hammer, nothing! Borrowed a cordless impact wrench..... nope! Buddy brought over a compressor and air wrench..... nada!! Tried a curved breaker bar..... with every ounce of strength I had, FINALLY got them to break loose. Now, I had to this x8 because EVERY !@(*$&@^#$%#@ bolt was tighter than...... well, lets just say they were LOCKED in there! With only 60k miles, I assume they've never been done before.
Add to this, while removing the driver rear rotor, the e-brake stuck to the rotor and I somehow pulled the retainer clip that holds the pads to the hub. Not having a clue how it was on..... I wasted nearly 1.5 hours trying to get THAT damn thing back in place. Just when I quit..... I got it back.

Now, time to prep the calipers and brackets for paint. I got the G2 kit so figured it would be quick and easy. Well, it was easy, but not quick. Cleaning and prep was effortless. Once everything was cleaned and dried, I mixed the paint and reactor and started painting. The little brush supplied doesn't cover a lot of area per stroke. Plus, I couldn't find a comfortable spot to sit, kneel, squat while holding the caliper and trying to paint it. Apply paint to caliper and bracket, move onto the next one. Repeat until I do all four corners. Now, apply second coat, to each corner. Repeat for a THIRD coat. By this point, my back is killing me from trying to position myself to comfortably paint. It was a good 2 hours to paint all four calipers and all four brackets, three times each (and I didn't paint every surface, only those that can easily be seen). Once I was done, I hobbled around my house looking like a 137 year old. I still ache today and I still have to "sand" off the lettering on the front calipers and install the new rotors and pads, and put it all back together!







Now, I just watched the install video for the Vararam CAI, as I was thinking about buying one. Yeah....... not so sure I'll be doing that!

Oh, pics coming after I get it back together!
looking good!!
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