for trunk of a C5

 

Yes

 

Ya got to be a little more specific then that but i think I know where your going with this. You can go the traditional route and purchase Dyna Mat but it's expensive and heavy and it weighs the car down. A lot of guys go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase a few rolls of Frost King Duct Insulation. It's a 1/8" thick dense foam that's foil lined and it's self adhesive. You remove your carpeting and line int the trunk area with this stuff, cutting and fitting it properly. Re install your carpeting and your good to go. And......if you have gone that far you might as well gut the entire interior and install it all over. It will reduce not only road noise but will keep the cockpit cooler, especially in the Trans tunnel area where it get really hot.

 

I used Fat Mat from Amazon, it has gone up in price since I did mine but way thicker than Dyno Mat !!! Have to use a hair dryer or heat gun !!!
(it has doubled in price since I bought)

 

Lowes sells an equivalent called "Peel and Seal"

 

Good idea to check out the stuff that Lowes/Home Depot sells. You could also check out the insulation packages that our forum vendors sell or you could try a trunk mat type of product to help reduce road noise.

 

We sell our kit for the rear of the car only or the front only. $99

http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l..._detail&p=1526

 

I bought the kit from Marc above. I bought the basic kit (without the attached ensolite.)
Having all of th epieces pre-cut was a Godsend... It made installation SO much easier than it would have been otherwise. I also put some mass loaded Vinyl (MLV) in the trunk area. I used the pre-cut vettenuts kit as the template to cut the pieces of MLV which also saved a ton of time. I couldn't figure out the door pieces for the life of me though.... nothing fit. EVERY other piece fit perfectly. I just put some dynamat-type material on the outer shell of the door.


Nice reduction in heat especially around the tunnel. Sound reduction was enough to notice but not a huge reduction. I would have done more MLV if my Coupe was just a cruiser but mine does double duty. Autocrossed it on a Sunday then drove it 8hrs to Bowling Green with the wife that same Thursday.


THis guy sure got a lot of input for such a nonpost.......

 

The problem with P&S is it contains asphalt.........not something I want in the interior.

 

Sports cars are SUPPOSED to be noisy.

 

I used a similar 50mil butylene product for sound deadening. Then covered it with neoprene insulation.

 

Agreed! The questioner should research the forum, many valuable threads on this topic.

 

Thats what I thought about rock n roll, too. Until I ended up with hearing loss! ;0)

 

I have to say Mark, it's one of those upgrades that you can actually feel makes a difference for the better. That was money well spent for that improvement, at least what your kit brings to the table. Every penny of it.

Those on the fence wanting to do this....Do yourself a favor and ante up for the complete interior.

 

I heavily researched this topic before I rebuilt my entire interior four years ago. Forum member Thrash discusses this issue plus others in great detail in his custom stereo install posting at the following link:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...p-by-step.html

In that link, Thrash discloses the following website as a great source for education about the things we call "noise":

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

The sound-deadener-showdown author opines that what we call noise (in the trunk area of our C5s) is in reality a combination of road noise and harmonic distortion (which is triggered by vibration throughout the car's the interior - both front and back). Most of that road noise comes from the wheel wells, which are poorly insulated in stock C5s. [Road noise in the front-end of the cabin emanates from the engine bay as well as the floor and front wheel wells. But since the OP was focused solely on the trunk area, that's where I am directing my comments.]

Eliminating Harmonic distortion: Mass Loaded Vinyl planks (about 8" x 12" each) placed in a checkerboard pattern within about 30% of the entire back end of the C5, plus polybutylene rope calk, stuffed into every seam in the interior, collectively serve to minimize/eliminate the vibration.

Sound deadening: Use the sound deadening material of your choice for the road noise - there's very little to distinguish one from another.

Temperature abatement: While the carpet is out of your car, you might want to concurrently address a third issue that bedevils our C5s - temperature abatement. You can install insulation materials sourced from your local Home Depot or Lowe's to address that issue.

Now, put all of this stuff in your car's trunk and you'll add considerable weight to the butt-end of your C5. So do this set of mods only if you don't care about your car's overall weight and/or its front/rear weight distribution.

Final thought [only applicable to stupid folks like me]: doing all of the above is wasted effort if you already have, or intend to later add, a high performance exhaust. It's about as crazy as adding an expensive, high quality stereo system and then adding that cool-sounding but droning exhaust. The noisy exhaust will most likely cancel the benefits of the other two mods.

I am knowledgeable on this topic after having done all of the above mods. Now, the only time my C5's interior is truly quiet is when I am cruising, windows up, at over 2,500 rpm with the A4 tranny in 3d gear (above 2,500 rpm the drone from my B&B PRT system disappears). [Note to you purists: I have to drive an A/T vehicle because shifting an M-6 tranny is too stressful on my surgically repaired back - courtesy of an L3-4-5 vertebrae fusion.]

My $0.02 worth.

The Lizzard
LS 1 w/ 600 hp and 520 lb/ft measured at the wheels

 

Eh?