Had my 2002 vert for just short of 12 years with very few problems. A couple of batteries and door lock relay. A couple of weeks ago everything electrical went haywire. Did some research, pulled the codes, changed the battery, yes a 78N does fit, thanks for all the responses. That was not the problem. Pulled numerous codes and cleared them. Started checking grounds. Got the ones behind the head lights and by the battery and the ones in the rear wheel wheel. There was no corrosion on the ones I checked. I don't know exactly how to get the sill plate off to get at those (4) grounds on the A and B pillars. Suggestions?

The last few on the engine look like they need to be accessed from below or with the engine pulled. Carpet on the floor and in the foot well is not wet. I did not pull the star connectors. I am not good at standing on my head and they are taped up. The connection in the drivers door was not corroded (did not check the passenger side). I had the seats out this spring for new leather so I checked the drivers side connectors, again no corrosion and the connections looked good.

Battery checked out at 12.56 VDC so I checked codes, and there were none, but there was a clicking sound that seemed to coincide with the security light flashing. Tried to start the car, tach went to zero then OK, no warning lites on. Codes were all "no code" except 60 IPC had B0521H and U1088H. The tachometer circuit malfunction (B0521H) makes sense but U1088 is not on my list. I did get a "low voltage" on the DIC which makes me think grounds or possibly ignition switch. The car would not start after, turned over but no spark.

I did have an ignition switch go out on my 99 about 14 years ago, but that was a VATS issue. The local Chevy dealer was able to do that work although they were not supposed to as the were not trained on C5 vettes. That is probably my next point of attack unless you have a better solution. The big issue is the nearest corvette service is 175 miles away. I'm looking locally for someone with real experience on vettes, but not holding my breath. I do want a long term fix not just cleaning the contacts. As stated, I've owned the car for nearly 12 years and hope to be buried in it if I don't give it to my son or grandson or possibly trade for one of those rumored rear engine 800 HP twin turbo'd v6s some where down the road.

How much effort goes into an ignition switch swap? Does the whole switch assembly need to be replaced, IE new keys? I have about any tool necessary and some experience, I just hate working on cars!

FYI the car is in Colorado and spent its entire life in the southwest. It has < 28,000 miles, not really a garage queen and is my daily driver for 6 months (if no snow). Obviously down time hurts with a short season.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

I am not an expert but 12.56 volts is not that great, this reading was taken at the battery or DIC?

 

Directly off the battery with the negative cable disconnected.

 

Fully charged: 6 cells @ 2.2vdc/cell= 13.2 VDC

 

It had been off the charger for a while when I tested it. 2.1 Volts is an at rest standard so it should not be an issue.

I did find ET's list of fuses that should read the same voltage as the battery and will check those out tonight.

 

Here is a link for ignition switch repair-

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html

 

After helping my son and family move on Tuesday, trying to recover on Wednesday, I finally got around to checking fuses related to the ignition switch tonight.

I went thru the measurements per Bill Curley's ignition switch instructions:
Here are the fuses powered by the "HOT in ACC and ON". part of the switch: At this point I had 11.96 VDC at the battery

Ok,,,here are the fuses that your going to check:

Under Hood Fuse Center

ENG ING1 FUSE# 19 = 11.94/11.94 (voltages at both sides of the fuse)

INJR 2 FUSE# 18 = 11.94/11.94


THROTCONT FUSE# 17 = 11.94/11.94


INJR 1 FUSE# 22 = 11.95/11.95


PCM FUSE# 16 = 11.89/11.89


F/PMP FUSE# 13 = 11.89/11.88

I wouldn't think 0.06 VDC drop would be significant, which ground is this related to?

Instrument Panel Fuse block = 11.90 VDC when starting test, car had lights on for ~ 1/2 hour by this time

BTSI BU Fuse# 21 = 11.74/11.74

BCM 13 Fuse# 22 my car does not use this fuse per diagram but 11.74 VDC on the hot side

IPC Fuse# 19 = 11.74/11.74


Check the VOLTAGE on these fuses when the ignition is in the ON position. There should be battery voltage on these fuses.

there was ~ 0.16 VDC drop. I wouldn't think that was significant but... Which ground would be causing this drop?

I haven't gotten under the car to check block grounds and can't figure out how to check the ground on the back of the head and I haven't opened up the star connectors but all ground to date have had 0 corrosion. Guess those are next.
Bill please help!

 

Just pull the ignition switch out clean the contacts under the cover and re-install and I would be willing to bet your problems will be gone, I had similar issues and after 2 hours everything is good as new, if you don't want to rebuild your switch you can get one from Rock Auto for about $70. Easy just follow instructions in this thread, only thing slowed me down for a few minutes was finding were to stick the screwdriver to release the trans cable and vats (key cylinder) so I posted a couple of pictures to identify them.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html

 

Had to replace it on my "99 but that was a VATS issue. It was my thought here but the voltages seem OK. Might just be worth the time and money. I don't believe my dealer locally (45 miles away) can do the work, Purifoy is 175 miles away.

 

Never tested my voltage like you except directly at the battery, battery is less than a year old Optima and if I kept in on a trickle charger would virtually never have an issue since 12.6 or so volts at the battery every time I would go to start it however after sitting for a few days, 3 out of 5 times trying to start it it would do just crazy different issues from acting like starter was bad (hard click), sometimes totally dead like no battery and sometimes gauges would go crazy and turn signals flash,ect. then 2nd time you turn the key after any of those issues it starts strong as ever like nothing happened, Other times it would just turn over but no start. After replacing starter and then the anti theft relay and cleaning what looked like clean grounds and problem still there so I new it had to be the ignition switch at least that was my hope and not something with a computer, after 2 weeks of many, many starts it starts stronger than ever and it hasn't been hooked up to a trickle charger since. I am positive that those dirty contacts in that switch and cleaning them off are what made the difference, Clean or replace your switch and I am sure your problem will be resolved. Good Luck!

 

I'm taking your advice Keith and just ordered a switch from Patrick and Gene at Cultrag Performance.

 

Looking forward to hearing the outcome! I do know after almost 2 months of figuring my cars issue out and now after a month of driving ALL issues are gone and I now have trust in the car again and haven't used the trickle charger since.

 

It is possible that there is a parasitic draw, but I had spent several hours working on the car, numerous door and hood openings and closings and chocked the voltage drop to lights being on.

I should receive the switch from Cultrag late this week or early next week. I will have the battery fully charged when I test to see if that's what was wrong.

PS it wouldn't start when the battery was fully charged at 12.56 VDC, so its more than just a parasitic draw.

 

I was skeptical MY issue was a bad ignition switch and after already buying a new starter and then later a theft deterrent relay I didn't want to throw anymore parts at it so I did Bill Curlee's posted clean up of the switch. I went the simple out and removed the green cover and brass contact arms and cleaned all the contacts with a piece of sandpaper glued to a pencil eraser, figured for NO cost might as well and car has been perfect ever since, you might try that with your switch and send back that new one? just a thought, if you are having somebody else do the R&R on the switch then yes I see why you ordered a new one. FWIW my car has 52k on it now.
Good Luck and looking forward to see if it cures your issue.

 

I figure if I'm going to put in the time to take it apart and put it back together that the $100 bucks will be cheap insurance. I've owned the car for nearly 12 years and don't see it going away very soon.

 

Several hours of time, a little blood loss and lots of swearing at GM but the new ignition switch is in. Charged the battery as its been sitting for 2 weeks, cleared the codes and it started right up! I'll take it to work tomorrow for a better test drive but I think I got it fixed.

The old ignition had a couple of burnt contacts, I'll try to clean them up and keep it as a spare, hopefully I'll never have to fix that issue again.

Thanks to Keith Richards and 8vette7 and especially for Bill Curlee's write up.

 

This morning on the way to the gym the DIC read service active handling, service traction control and service ABS. On the way to work after the gym all messages were gone. I will pull and clear the codes tonite, but it appears that all is well again.

 

EXCELLENT!!

 

What Mr Curlee said ^^^^, Nice to get your confidence back in your C5, I know I lost mine there for a while.

 

Just got back from vacation, left the car on a float charger the entire time. Yesterday started fine w/ no issues. Today (Friday the 13th!) I got several warnings on the way to work, reduced engine power, low fuel, service engine soon etc, no radio, no power to windows no oil pressure, no fuel and the temperature gauge is pegged. At work now and the car will not start so i pulled codes and all modules read "No comm".

Most of the grounds were cleaned a couple of months ago and a new battery installed. Voltage on the dash shows 14+ volts currently. Any suggestions on a fix. It seems like it should be something simple to affect everything all at once.