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Time to upgrade this thread a little. I've done quite a bit since I last posted in this thread. Replaced the ignition switch that was causing mystery issues with the car dying. Installed poly bushings on my stock sway bars, installed a new system and ditched the junky Bose, repaired the drivers seat rock issue, installed new tires (stock sizes, nt05 Nittos and firestone indy 500 fronts), hazard switch, and finally this!
I'm throwing in a Jegs cam, part#200582 and some Scoggin Dickey dual valve springs with titanium retainers. Cam is a 228/230 .585/.585 112 lsa. This is the cam used by SloppyMechanics on youtube. He throws this cam in all kinds of LS engines and makes good power with it.
Cam went in today. Stock cam that came out looked mint. For those of you who say the condensor needs to come out, well on a 2000 C5 it does NOT! I had plenty of room. I put most of the motor back together. Waiting for my damper installer tool to come in as I didn't have one. Then the damper, steering rack, radiator go in and done. I used all OEM gaskets and damper for my build. Hopefully Friday I will have it tuned. Stock cam
More happening!! 2001 Z06 Alcoas for $400 Ditching the magnaflow system and putting in z06 titanium exhaust with bypass mod and this Corsa x-pipe. 243 heads off a newer Z06 with super low miles.
My car is currently at the tuner getting tuned after the cam install. I have another thread that will discuss numbers once I get it back.
So I ran out of Injector at 5300 rpm or something like that. Duty cycle was at 117% and started getting knock retard. It made 356whp at that rate and the car wasn't done being tuned at all. Only 2 pulls. I replaced injectors with 42lb Bosch and it's back getting tuned right now.
Went with 42lb Bosch injectors that dropped right in. Took car back to tuner and the tune is complete. 363whp/365wtq on his Dynapack which reads low. Car feels like a beast, definitely more like a 400whp car. He said my stock heads and air intake are currently acting like a wall. Car wants to eat and currently can't. I do have the 243 heads I'll be working on for the winter and I purchased a Vararam cai with a Haltech upper bridge, all for $100 shipped. Very nice Corvette gentleman I found on offerup, who gave me a smoking deal. That will he coming soon.
I apologize, I forgot to mention I picked up a set of original 2001 Z06 Alcoa wheels for $400. One of them had some paint chipping and light curb rash. The other rear wheel has one chip of paint missing and the fronts are mint.
I did take the worst Zo6 Alcoa wheel to a wheel shop who is charging me $150 to strip the wheel. Repair any damage and ppwdercoat it. The other 3 wheels look fine. My plan is if it don't match well, I'll have the same side front done and that will be it. Then it will be a matter of getting some tires, which are $$$$. More coming soon.
One wheel is complete and it came out darker. So now I'm having all of them powder coated. They will mount and balance my new tires as well. I love the darker gunmetal color.
So I've went through a few exhaust systems and got my refinished Alcoa Z wheels and tires installed. As far as the exhaust goes, I went from the Magnaflow the car came with , to a Z06 ti mod exhaust, then to a Corsa extreme with 200ct Magnaflow race cats. Now I'm done with the exhaust and here's a vid.
After reading the 1st post I was going to tell you NOT to do the brass gears. They're very noisy compared to plastic and when it binds again (someday it will) it will blow/crack the motor housing apart instead of stripping the factory style plastic gears. Next time, you WILL be replacing the entire motor.
As a side note, if you change gears and it gets stripped again in a short period of time lets say less than a year later, you have an issue with the linkages that actually raise/lower the headlight bucket. The pivot points get slop and it can begin to bind. That's the leading cause of the plastic gear wearing as the motor is spinning, the linkage is binding, and the plastic gear is the fuse in the middle of it all.
That's why the factory used plastic instead of pot metal (GM soft metal) because it's quieter... and cheaper. As a side note for older cars that plastic lets you rebuild the motor over and over... brass gears wont.
Oh my.... Good post Your take on headlight tub, plastic/brass gear material swap, is "right on". I've been down that road with those GM buckets before 😠... and now the plastic gear makes sense!😁.. Thanx!
