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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 10:25 AM
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Default Front Splitter install question

I just picked up a new splitter (Ikon Motorsports) (Thanks Kylar!). It came with self tapping screws. I had anticipated installing it with rivets but now I'm not sure if the screws would be enough, and I just go that route? Can anyone say why I should use rivets or why I should use the self tappers? Doesn't matter to me one way or the other, just wasn't aware they come with screws.


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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 01:03 PM
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Boy is that sweet looking. I've been thinking about getting one for sometime and just haven't pulled the trigger. Did the vendor include painting? In terms of screws vs. rivets, I would think you're good with the screws as long at the size of the screws match's the requirements, e.g., weight. I guess if you wanted a bit more support, you could add some 3M double sided, if there's room. Between that and the screws, I'm betting you'll have zero problems.

Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Feb 20, 2018 at 11:28 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 07:06 PM
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Should we assume that the blacked out license plate area will be removed to partially restore airflow to the radiator?

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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by c5BlackBeauty
Boy is that sweet looking. I've been thinking about getting one for sometime and just haven't pulled the trigger. Did the vendor include painting? In terms of screws vs. rivets, I would think you're good with the screws as long at the size of the screws match's the requirements, e.g., weight. I guess if you wanted a bit more support, you could add some 3M double sided, if there's room. Between that and the screws, I'm betting you'll have zero problems.
Not painted. I actually picked it up from a forum member. Its new in the original plastic bag, he never mounted it and sold his Vette.

I may go the route of rivets only because the screws are only going into the plastic (and nothing really solid).
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by c5vetteguy
Should we assume that the blacked out license plate area will be removed to partially restore airflow to the radiator?

You should never assume. To answer your question, no, here in MA I have to run a front plate so no removing it.
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 09:28 PM
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How will you compensate for the increase in coolant temps?
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 10:01 PM
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I used the self tapping screws on mine. No problems at all at street speeds and it feels really secure. I may modify it if I start to track the car, but for the street I think the screws work great.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by c5vetteguy
How will you compensate for the increase in coolant temps?


*edited to add* I may have misread your post and took it wrong, so I edited my reply not to come across as a ungrateful *****.

I'll certainly watch the temps and adjust accordingly, if needed.

Last edited by BAT; Feb 20, 2018 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by C5SCCA
I used the self tapping screws on mine. No problems at all at street speeds and it feels really secure. I may modify it if I start to track the car, but for the street I think the screws work great.
Thanks. That was what I was thinking. Figured the screws would be fine for the normal street driving I do (maybe add a little 3M tape too). I don't track the car at all.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 01:29 PM
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The splitter will cause your car to run hotter in the summer because it will redirect airflow and cause some air not to be directed by factory airdam to flow through your radiator. A splitter with an open center section works much better with bottom feeder oem setup.

You could partially remedy this by removing your foglight screens and replacing with ducts and hoses that blow directly into factory radiator shroud creating a front breather.

Link below has ducts and hose I'm referring to.

https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/...ry/Naca_Ducts2




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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by NemesisC5
The splitter will cause your car to run hotter in the summer because it will redirect airflow and cause some air not to be directed by factory airdam to flow through your radiator. A splitter with an open center section works much better with bottom feeder oem setup.

You could partially remedy this by removing your foglight screens and replacing with ducts and hoses that blow directly into factory radiator shroud creating a front breather.

Link below has ducts and hose I'm referring to.

https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/...ry/Naca_Ducts2





That's not my car in the picture, but I do have screens in the fog area too. I have a Vararam CAI installed so that area is already being used to direct air.

I'll be sure to watch my temp as I drive the car this summer.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BAT
...I'll certainly watch the temps and adjust accordingly, if needed.
I only mentioned the cooling issue because I didn't know if you were aware of the damming effect of this style splitter. It has been written about here on the forum a few times, with corroboration from a few who have installed this style splitter (designed for a C6) and noticed an increase of coolant temps. As mentioned by Nemesis, the C5 needs that airflow to the center deflector, whereas the C6 doesn't. Those who kept this splitter have come up with alternate cooling solutions, like opening the license plate area or using duct work that feeds air to the center deflector.
Good luck with your new install.
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by c5BlackBeauty
Boy is that sweet looking. I've been thinking about getting one for sometime and just haven't pulled the trigger. Did the vendor include painting? In terms of screws vs. rivets, I would think you're good with the screws as long at the size of the screws match's the requirements, e.g., weight. I guess if you wanted a bit more support, you could add some 3M double sided, if there's room. Between that and the screws, I'm betting you'll have zero problems.
I recently had a Ikon black plastic installed on my car at the dealership $50.00 they used the hardware that came with it. Or.looks way kool. I've been about 150 mph with no problems. One thing for sure leave all three pieces of the air dam on. I had overheating problems when removed the two on the outside. Once I put them back on engine runs same temp
I wasn't on corvette forum then, I saw a utube video and
had the two removed when splinter was installed. CF is the best thing for information about Amy questions I have. Thanks to all CF members

Last edited by Rlb2002vette; Feb 21, 2018 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 04:36 PM
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I used 10-24 rivet nuts for my front spoiler and side skirts.
I did it that way so If I want to remove it I can just unscrew the 10-24 screws.
Take it off and on when ever you would like in less than 5 minutes.

Last edited by cmjuhl; Feb 21, 2018 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cmjuhl
I used 10-24 rivet nuts for my front spoiler and side skirts.
I did it that way so If I want to remove it I can just unscrew the 10-24 screws.
Take it off and on when ever you would like in less than 5 minutes.
It looks great on your car, I get complements on mine quite frequently. Have a great vette day. Rick
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by NemesisC5
The splitter will cause your car to run hotter in the summer because it will redirect airflow and cause some air not to be directed by factory airdam to flow through your radiator. A splitter with an open center section works much better with bottom feeder oem setup.

You could partially remedy this by removing your foglight screens and replacing with ducts and hoses that blow directly into factory radiator shroud creating a front breather.

Link below has ducts and hose I'm referring to.

https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/...ry/Naca_Ducts2




Do you know if these are C5 specific, or basically take modification?
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by STALION
Do you know if these are C5 specific, or basically take modification?
Universal application however they offer an assortment of sizes and designs.
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Old Feb 24, 2018 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by c5BlackBeauty
Boy is that sweet looking. I've been thinking about getting one for sometime and just haven't pulled the trigger. Did the vendor include painting? In terms of screws vs. rivets, I would think you're good with the screws as long at the size of the screws match's the requirements, e.g., weight. I guess if you wanted a bit more support, you could add some 3M double sided, if there's room. Between that and the screws, I'm betting you'll have zero problems.
ok bought my splinter from I'm in about 6 months ago. It came nicely wrapped and is a glossy black. I had it installed about $50.00 at dealership.I get complements on it all the time. Go ahead and get ya one. It's well worth the price, which was great when I bought mine and fast delivery.
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