When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dealers don't give a crap what oil you drive away with, they pour in what they buy in bulk, or what's cheapest, or what's kicking around. Assuming they put in the correct oil is probably naive. The oil you require is a function of YOUR cold ambient temps, YOUR hot running temps, and bearing clearances. Manufacturers that warranty motors know exactly what viscosities are necessary, which dictates where they cut their best deal. Mobil 1 is an excellent oil. I've run it at track temps up to 300 degrees, and done the same with Amsoil. I'm switching back to Mobil 1 racing oil, because that's what champion racers with my motor recommend at the temps the motor will be running at, and it has extra wear inhibitors (which are not friendly to cats though). At high temps all oils thin at almost the same rate, according to INDEPENDENT labs. Run what is recommended for your conditions and don't listen to my oil can beat up your oil opinions. I change my own oil, and fill the new filter before installing it so the motor doesn't run dry when started, that's far more important than the brand synthetic you use.
Using Mobil 1 in all my cars. Corvettes, older engines and my *** daily driver. Have been for the last 30 years.
Sent in samples to Blackstone labs a few times, after I drove my H/C/I car and bounced off the rev limiter a dozen times at 7000 rpm for a few thousand miles, use it my flat 4 daily driver for 65,000 miles and my old Pontiac.
Asked Blackstone Labs about it, no recommendation to change oil brand in any vehicle. Whatever meets the manufactures recommendation.
I use Mobil 1 currently and drive moderate amount of miles each year. I am open to changing if and when it is proven that Mobil 1 is not as good as other oils.
As for cars using Mobil 1 at the 24 hours of Le Mans, am sure that Mobil pays to sponsor the cars that use Mobil 1 so it's not a reference as to its efficiency.
I've tested my oil at Blackstone numerous times after track use, and always come back with below normal wear with Mobil1. All ads are not lies. A major function of ads in a free society is factual information about a product vs competing products. Guys running Lemans are there to win, teams sending the space shuttle into space want to come home, NASCAR teams are there to win, manufacturers are fiercely competitive want every edge, on and on, and numerous national champions I've talked to all use Mobil1 for results. Entrenched opinions based on ? are why we sometimes only progress one funeral at a time. But, if Mobil went out of business tomorrow, there are plenty of great competitors.
No, it's not as good. It is basically the same formula, but they lowered the zinc content and changed it to cut costs. If it was completely different it would be called Mobil2. It's pretty much the same. There is your break.
Balony! If today's M1 was the same formula (or worse as you put it), there's no way it would meet today's much more stringent API standards...
The SAE Certification of oils should speak for itself. Though there is no denying that some brands add additional compounds to their product, the designations and certification awarded by SAE are good enough for me.
If you listen closely enough, it is quite amazing to actually know "who" makes "what" brand of oil. Labeling is such a marketing boon.
Balony! If today's M1 was the same formula (or worse as you put it), there's no way it would meet today's much more stringent API standards...
More stringent standards? Pretty much all motor oils meet those standards. Even the cheapest off brands at the local Farm store. Mobil spends more money on marketing and cutting production costs than improving their M1 formula. When it first came out they claimed you could go 25K miles between oil changes. Now they tell you to follow your cars manufacturer recommendations. It is basically the same formula with different additives for a variety of sub-brands. It is good oil but, it is not the best oil. Maybe it was at one time.
Dealers don't give a crap what oil you drive away with, they pour in what they buy in bulk, or what's cheapest, or what's kicking around. Assuming they put in the correct oil is probably naive. The oil you require is a function of YOUR cold ambient temps, YOUR hot running temps, and bearing clearances. Manufacturers that warranty motors know exactly what viscosities are necessary, which dictates where they cut their best deal. Mobil 1 is an excellent oil. I've run it at track temps up to 300 degrees, and done the same with Amsoil. I'm switching back to Mobil 1 racing oil, because that's what champion racers with my motor recommend at the temps the motor will be running at, and it has extra wear inhibitors (which are not friendly to cats though). At high temps all oils thin at almost the same rate, according to INDEPENDENT labs. Run what is recommended for your conditions and don't listen to my oil can beat up your oil opinions. I change my own oil, and fill the new filter before installing it so the motor doesn't run dry when started, that's far more important than the brand synthetic you use.
My dad also taught me to fill the new filter with oil before installation. I'm no engineer or mechanic, so I don't know whether this is a sensible practice or not, but it seems logical to a layman like me.
More stringent standards? Pretty much all motor oils meet those standards. Even the cheapest off brands at the local Farm store. Mobil spends more money on marketing and cutting production costs than improving their M1 formula. When it first came out they claimed you could go 25K miles between oil changes. Now they tell you to follow your cars manufacturer recommendations. It is basically the same formula with different additives for a variety of sub-brands. It is good oil but, it is not the best oil. Maybe it was at one time.
Pretty much all oils meet today's standards because they're better oils, including M1...it's probably not the best you can buy, but like I said, chances that you'll have any oil related engine problems using it, or any other oil for that matter are next to nothing...
It is basically the same formula with different additives for a variety of sub-brands. It is good oil but, it is not the best oil. Maybe it was at one time.
Blame Castrol. They're the shady company that started calling group III hydrocracked oils 100% synthetic. Mobil sued them in court and lost.
Now even AMSOIL has dropped the amount of PAO in their oil and the viscosity at high temp has dropped in the latest formula.
I use Motul 300V in my motorcycle. It's pure Group V ester base stock.
It costs about $16 a quart. I don't mind the expense since the bike oil doubles as transmission fluid, and based on mileage, I only need to change it 1-2 a year, vs 7 quarts every 3 months in my daily driver C5. You're kidding yourself if you think any cheap oil from Walmart is better than Mobil 1. It's economics. Very few companies make their own base stocks. Most boutique oil companies buy their stock from the big companies and then mix their own additives. I don't even think Redline makes their own base stocks. Castrol and crap like that sure isn't better than Mobil 1. And when Mobil 1 is good enough to carry an LS1 engine to 300-400k miles, is it really worth using Motul 300V ? Not for me. YMMV.
OK – no discussions yet about HTHS viscosity measurements with ASTM D4683; definition of synthetic chemicals; synthetic molecules; and only a very brief discussion (thank you Corvette #2) on whether Group III oils are truly synthetics.
In the meantime – I do like chromed wheels on many lighter color vehicles.
My dad also taught me to fill the new filter with oil before installation. I'm no engineer or mechanic, so I don't know whether this is a sensible practice or not, but it seems logical to a layman like me.
been doing that my entire life, better not to starve engine of oil even for seconds !!!!