Lowered C5 Insight Needed
I have more questions but I will hold those off till after your response.I'm sorry for over whelming you with so many questions.
I have more questions but I will hold those off till after your response.I'm sorry for over whelming you with so many questions.
A simpler way is to use your jacking puck locations J & K trim heights as marked in yellow on the spec sheet & noted on the 3rd photo.
So if you have a coupe or convertible it is easier to install a puck & make sure the top of the puck is pushed up against the frame & measure from the bottom of the puck to the ground obviously with the car on the ground & then add the height of the puck into your measurement, & hopefully you would be on a hard level surface.
In the spec sheet the stock measurement listed under service preferred column you will see the specs J is the front & K is the rear, to keep it simple 6" in front & 6-1/4" in the rear that would get you back to stock ride height assuming you are running stock tire sizes 275/40/18 & 245/45/17
You were close on your wheel well heights as well, I think mine were 29 & 27.75 I never recorded it so that is close to what I remember. You can use that to measure but is not recommended as the body panel may be off. I will admit I like all my gaps to be equal so I use the puck locations & I also measure from the bottom of the wheel well to the top of the rim to fine tune.
On the spec sheet you will also notice that Z06 J & K specs are level, the Z06 rear tire was shorter than stock C5 so that lowered the rear some. I used that as my base line, these cars look best either level or higher in the rear. On mine having same diameter tire F & R if I was to set the gap the same F & R the car would be squatting in the rear, not what I like, so I ended up at 26.5 & 25.75 from the ground with a level J & K spec of 3.75"
If you want to lower your car from the stock height for looks, just reduce the J & K specs equal F & R so you still keep some rake.
Forgot to add I am not sure how many turns equates into inches of raising or lowering, you just need to keep adjusting & measuring till you are where you want to be, & adjusting bolts are a lot easier than coilovers.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 6speedsteve; Sep 8, 2018 at 01:45 AM.
so i went Aldan coilovers. I think they were like 1100 bucks or so. I'd do it again. before the carbon i'd hit the air dam a little. But it was fine other than that... now with the carbon i have to be pretty careful... but I love it lol
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; Sep 10, 2018 at 03:58 PM.
Those that went with z06 components, the same question. Did it stop bottoming out?
Appreciate the feedback.
Scraping the air dam. that happens lol.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
so i went Aldan coilovers. I think they were like 1100 bucks or so. I'd do it again. before the carbon i'd hit the air dam a little. But it was fine other than that... now with the carbon i have to be pretty careful... but I love it lol
There are 2 types of coilovers a preset drop normally 1-1/4"-1-1/2" total drop, or a base adjustable to raise or lower without changing shock stroke.
On a preset drop coilover you can adjust the height of the car with spring preload but you still need to be within the 40-60% range, or you will top out or bottom out the shock, so not a lot of adjustment from the designed drop.
On the adjustable base you can go lower without changing preload, but the 40-60% is still critical to your ride quality. Also these cars are not always equal from side to side, I set my shock stroke to be between 40-50% so I get more travel on the compression stroke, to get that as close as possible on each side my preload is different at each shock. I marked the shock shafts with 40,50,& 60% marks so I had an idea where I was, and then adjust the base to get my final ride height.
https://www.ridetech.com/info/tech/c...ight-coilover/
Ride Height
We have designed most cars to have a ride height of about 1 1/2” lower than factory. To achieve the
best ride quality & handling, the shock absorber needs to be at 40-60% overall travel when the car is at
ride height. This will ensure that the shock will not bottom out or top out over even the largest bumps.
Measuring the shock can be diffi cult, especially on some front suspensions. Measuring overall wheel travel
is just as effective and can be much easier. Most cars will have 4-6” of overall wheel travel. One easy
way to determine where you are at in wheel travel is to take a measurement from the fender lip (center
of the wheel) to the ground. Then lift the car by the frame until the wheel is just touching the ground,
re-measure. This will indicate how far you are from full extension of the shock. A minimum of 1.5” of
extension travel (at the wheel) is needed to ensure that the shock does not top out. If you are more than
3” from full extension of the shock then you are in danger of bottoming out the shock absorber
Last edited by 6speedsteve; Sep 11, 2018 at 12:21 AM.
so i went Aldan coilovers. I think they were like 1100 bucks or so. I'd do it again. before the carbon i'd hit the air dam a little. But it was fine other than that... now with the carbon i have to be pretty careful... but I love it lol
I hit my plastic hinged piece leaving my driveway, there's no way I could be that low, but that's the only way those lips / skirts look good. My first car was low enough I'd pull the bumper to go up on ramps / lifts, and I don't necessarily want to run back down that road again.











PFADT coilovers on mine.






