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[QUOTE=GCG;1598672665]Considering that the OEM Bose twiddlers are 2 ohms, the JBL GX Series @ 2.3 ohms is a better suited replacement than the JBL Club Series @ 3 ohms. Because of this, they can extract more power from the amps.
Besides that, the GX Series has a soft dome tweeter, which should deliver a smoother sound with a wider dispersion pattern than the Club Series' PEI balanced dome tweeter. Add to that the Harman-Proprietary Tweeter Deflector on the GX Series, that according to JBL "acts as a waveguide, allowing for an angled, rotating speaker, which optimizes the off-axis sound performance. Because all cars are designed differently, this allows impeccable sound to travel throughout all locations in the cabin".
The 5¼" and 6½" from the GX Series should perform a little better at their lower end than the Club Series.
Put these in mine---they are a more efficient 2.2-ohm and sound better than stock. You have to reverse the connections though. ( small is big / big is small )
I'm going to order the GX302 & the GX602's. What's this about ''reverse the connections"? I need instruction for an electronics dummy. Will I need to cut wires or are these plug & play?
I'm going to order the GX302 & the GX602's. What's this about ''reverse the connections"?...
Bose does use the same narrow/wide spade terminals in its speakers as other manufacturers do, BUT they don't follow the common standard and the polarity of their speaker terminals is REVERSED in relation to the aftermarket ones.
Pay attention to the + and - signs in ALL speakers terminals and, for example, use a red permanent marker to identify the + wire in each speaker before unplugging or desoldering anything. Then make sure your new connections are done keeping the CORRECT polarity
Bose does use the same narrow/wide spade terminals in its speakers as other manufacturers do, BUT they don't follow the common standard, so their polarity is REVERSED.
Pay attention to the + and - signs in ALL speakers terminals and, for example, use a red permanent marker to identify the + wire in each speaker before unplugging or desoldering anything. Then make sure your new connections are done keeping the CORRECT polarity
Check this Post for first hand feedback on the JL Audio Evolution™ C2 Series 2-way car speakers.
If you're considering to upgrade the front 3½" twiddlers, you should take the opportunity and also replace the 2 rear twiddlers at the same time.
I was considering replacing the front and back 'twiddlers' until I read a post that said: Those with verts don't change the rear speakers! You won't hear them with the top down. Save your money.
I spent around $245 on my whole stereo system(sub box, subwoofer, 2 amps, headunit, install kit and wiring), I got my door speakers from a friend for free( $40 6.5 infinities). The stereo system sounds miles better. The stock Bose is garbage.
I was considering replacing the front and back 'twiddlers' until I read a post that said: Those with verts don't change the rear speakers! You won't hear them with the top down. Save your money.
I guess you won't know for sure until you try. The link you quoted addresses precisely that situation, but it is 180° different:
And BTW, even with a Vert, the rears are plenty noticeable. At least with the C2-525X's.
And the JBL GX Series listed above in Post 20 should be louder than the JL Audio Evolution C2 Series mentioned in the quoted text...
Considering that the OEM Bose twiddlers are 2 ohms, the JBL GX Series @ 2.3 ohms is a better suited replacement than the JBL Club Series @ 3 ohms. Because of this, they can extract more power from the amps.
Besides that, the GX Series has a soft dome tweeter, which should deliver a smoother sound with a wider dispersion pattern than the Club Series' PEI balanced dome tweeter. Add to that the Harman-Proprietary Tweeter Deflector on the GX Series, that according to JBL "acts as a waveguide, allowing for an angled, rotating speaker, which optimizes the off-axis sound performance. Because all cars are designed differently, this allows impeccable sound to travel throughout all locations in the cabin".
The 5¼" and 6½" from the GX Series should perform a little better at their lower end than the Club Series.
JBL GX Series:
GX302 (3½")
Sensitivity: 89 dB
Frequency Response: 90Hz-21kHz
GX502 (5¼")
91dB
65Hz-21kHz
GX602 (6½")
92 dB
50Hz-21kHz
JBL Club Series:
Club 3020 (3½")
Sensitivity: 89 dB
Frequency Response: 90Hz-20kHz
Club 5020 (5¼")
91 dB
75Hz-20kHz
Club 6520 (6½")
92 dB
55Hz-20kHz
[/QUOTE
Very helpful! Many thanks! Best place to order?
Thanks for the useful information, been looking into a speaker upgrade. I was going to order the C2- 350X 3-1/2" and the C2 -650X 6.5. But I was told by Crutch field that they will not fit into my car without crushing the speaker with my door panel and speaker covers? JL C2 350X size are 0.562 stock opening is 0.275.
Rear JL C2 650X are 0.722 and stick opening are 0.396.
So my question will the JBL GX Series 3.5 and 6.5 fit behind my door panel and rear speaker covers?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the useful information, been looking into a speaker upgrade. I was going to order the C2- 350X 3-1/2" and the C2 -650X 6.5. But I was told by Crutchfield that they will not fit into my car without crushing the speaker with my door panel and speaker covers? JL C2 350X size are 0.562 stock opening is 0.275.
Rear JL C2 650X are 0.722 and stick opening are 0.396.
So my question will the JBL GX Series 3.5 and 6.5 fit behind my door panel and rear speaker covers?
Thanks in advance.
The JL Audio Evolution C2 Series speakers have been installed by many members and positive feedback in the forum has been provided several times. The JBL GX Series GX302 (3½") was reported as successfully installed above in Post 5.
The only issue that I'm aware of is in relation to installing the 5¼" one (C2-525X) in a Z06. In this specific scenario it's been reported that the speaker's magnet assembly touches the outside skin of the car before its mounting ring could get sit in place.
Two workarounds have been successfully used:
Using a spacer ring
Removing the rubber cover around the speaker's magnet
If you keep the factory radio speakers will not make a huge difference. It is the radio sound processor where
you get the best sounds from. I just switched out and went with Alpine single din and JBL speakers, a world of difference.
If you keep the factory radio speakers will not make a huge difference. It is the radio sound processor where you get the best sounds from...
Perception is very subjective, but there are certain hard facts that can't be ignored.
The C5 OEM speakers do not include any real tweeter. Bose used 4 plain-cone (paper) speakers to handle high and mid frequencies and called them "twiddlers". That's why a substantial improvement can be achieved by just replacing them with a 2-way coaxial design.
I just finished the doors, I installed an Infinity coaxial 6.5" and an Infinity 4" mid range with a bass block capacitor. Clocked in at 2.6 ohms. I'm going to replace the head unit and add an amp too, but I temporarily wired it into the Bose head unit to test them and was surprised how good they sound. I had replaced the rears earlier with JBL's and quite honestly, I didn't think they sounded much different than the stock Bose, I think you need to upgrade the head unit to get any real improvement there.
What Infinity series did you use, looking into speakers. Looking at JL but sounds like JBL GX Series has a better sound, and you are having a different out come with JBL's compaired to the Infinity that you just installed.
Did you use the bass block on all 4 speakers or just the front 4" .
Any problems fitting the 4" front speaker behind door panel ?
The JL Audio Evolution C2 Series speakers have been installed by many members and positive feedback in the forum has been provided several times. The JBL GX Series GX302 (3½") was reported as successfully installed above in Post 5.
The only issue that I'm aware of is in relation to installing the 5¼" one (C2-525X) in a Z06. In this specific scenario it's been reported that the speaker's magnet assembly touches the outside skin of the car before it's mounting ring could get sit in place.
Two workarounds have been successfully used:
Using a spacer ring
Removing the rubber cover around the speaker's magnet
No other issue that I know of has been reported.
The 3½" is just a straight swap:
Hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply, and information. I have seen in other post that both speakers sets have fit, why Crutch Field told me they won't is beyond me?
Thanks again
I replaced my front and rear twiddlers. The sound is now a bit "tinny" - I think this is because the rear speakers I got are 2-way and boost the high-frequency too much. What's needed is a rear speaker with a bit more punch...
I replaced my front and rear twiddlers. The sound is now a bit "tinny" - I think this is because the rear speakers I got are 2-way and boost the high-frequency too much. What's needed is a rear speaker with a bit more punch...
Did you make sure your replacement speakers are in phase with each other and, more importantly, with the door subwoofers?
If your new speakers are out of phase you might be experiencing sound cancellation and it's negative impact is most noticeable on the low frequencies. Take a look at this Post for more details, so you can verify that and correct it if necessary.
