Door Speaker Upgrade ... or not?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 267
Door Speaker Upgrade ... or not?
I need to pull the door panels on my '02 coupe to fix a lock relay problem. I'm also considering replacing the 3.5" 'twidlers' based on feedback I've seen on the forum. JL speakers have received positive reviews .... but I found one member that complained that the JL volume level did not match the factory units. He switched to JBL units that had lower resistance and was very satisfied. I'm no electronic guru so could use some advice. Maybe just leave everything stock? Id appreciate hearing your experiences.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Check this Post for first hand feedback on the JL Audio Evolution™ C2 Series 2-way car speakers.
If you're considering to upgrade the front 3½" twiddlers, you should take the opportunity and also replace the 2 rear twiddlers at the same time.
If you're considering to upgrade the front 3½" twiddlers, you should take the opportunity and also replace the 2 rear twiddlers at the same time.
Last edited by GCG; Jan 8, 2019 at 01:31 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 329
I need to pull the door panels on my '02 coupe to fix a lock relay problem. I'm also considering replacing the 3.5" 'twidlers' based on feedback I've seen on the forum. JL speakers have received positive reviews .... but I found one member that complained that the JL volume level did not match the factory units. He switched to JBL units that had lower resistance and was very satisfied. I'm no electronic guru so could use some advice. Maybe just leave everything stock? Id appreciate hearing your experiences.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 267
Check this Post for first hand feedback on the JL Audio Evolution™ C2 Series 2-way car speakers.
If you're considering to upgrade the front 3½" twiddlers, you should take the opportunity and also replace the 2 rear twiddlers at the same time.
If you're considering to upgrade the front 3½" twiddlers, you should take the opportunity and also replace the 2 rear twiddlers at the same time.
Last edited by jost6453; Jan 8, 2019 at 09:45 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 160
From: Lafayette Louisiana
My factory radio went out. Replaced it with an el cheapo aftermarket radio and the PAC ROEM-VET1 interface to keep factory speaker setup. Works great. Sound is better than factory radio. 
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 139
Likes: 14
From: Almost Canada
I need to pull the door panels on my '02 coupe to fix a lock relay problem. I'm also considering replacing the 3.5" 'twidlers' based on feedback I've seen on the forum. JL speakers have received positive reviews .... but I found one member that complained that the JL volume level did not match the factory units. He switched to JBL units that had lower resistance and was very satisfied. I'm no electronic guru so could use some advice. Maybe just leave everything stock? Id appreciate hearing your experiences.
Last edited by WoodyJohnson; Jan 8, 2019 at 12:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 267
I appreciate the feedback but a few specific questions remain:
What is resistance of the factory 3.5" speakers and are the JL's the same?
Same question for the rear speakers... do JL match factory?
Does the volume of the JL' S (front and rear) match the factory speakers. So do they 'play well' with the 8" subwoofer?
Sorry to be so OCD .... I just want to know what to expect before I start.
What is resistance of the factory 3.5" speakers and are the JL's the same?
Same question for the rear speakers... do JL match factory?
Does the volume of the JL' S (front and rear) match the factory speakers. So do they 'play well' with the 8" subwoofer?
Sorry to be so OCD .... I just want to know what to expect before I start.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 477
Likes: 48
I appreciate the feedback but a few specific questions remain:
What is resistance of the factory 3.5" speakers and are the JL's the same?
Same question for the rear speakers... do JL match factory?
Does the volume of the JL' S (front and rear) match the factory speakers. So do they 'play well' with the 8" subwoofer?
Sorry to be so OCD .... I just want to know what to expect before I start.
What is resistance of the factory 3.5" speakers and are the JL's the same?
Same question for the rear speakers... do JL match factory?
Does the volume of the JL' S (front and rear) match the factory speakers. So do they 'play well' with the 8" subwoofer?
Sorry to be so OCD .... I just want to know what to expect before I start.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 267
The resistance of the JL speakers is 4-ohm while all of the Bose are 2-ohm. Replacing the rear 6-1/2" 2-ohm with the JL 4-ohm is fine due to the size and power handling capacity. Volume level remains nearly the same plus you can use the fader to compensate. In the door I tried the JL 4-ohm but found the JBL 2.2-ohm gave me more volume and clearer vocals since it closely matched the Bose 2-ohm speakers. Since they are both coaxial speakers( the JL have silk tweeters--the JBL do not--can't tell any difference) the soundstage sounds great and the Bose subs just keep handling the lower range. What really waked mine up was adding a JL Audio sub and separate amp in the rear. You will need the Metra adapter kit 72-4568 for the rear speakers. I cut and soldered the front connectors. Good luck.
Did you try JBL 6.5" in the rear position?
Does the rear sub setup fit in the rear 'cubby' and where did you get this setup? Looks like a great add.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 477
Likes: 48
Since I started with the JL Audio replacement speakers I did not try a JBL in the rear....just didn't like the sound of the front JL Audio spkrs - thus the 3.5" JBL's. It should work fine though if that is what you would prefer...They re very close to the same timbre. I had a local professional install the amp/sub combo. Routing the bass signal from the head unit to the sub is a bit tricky on the Bose system but I think it sounds great--very strong and clear sound. I'm satisfied with it. At 65 I don't need anymore hearing loss 
Oh. and the system sits very nicely in the cubby. I can cover it completely if needed but I usually have it at least half way open to let the heat of the amp out. Plus, if the sub should ever fail(unlikely) it's just an easy switch.
Oh. and the system sits very nicely in the cubby. I can cover it completely if needed but I usually have it at least half way open to let the heat of the amp out. Plus, if the sub should ever fail(unlikely) it's just an easy switch.
Last edited by lonerider2002; Jan 9, 2019 at 02:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 267
Put these in mine---they are a more efficient 2.2-ohm and sound better than stock. You have to reverse the connections though. ( small is big / big is small )
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8MNNT6..._t3_B00009QOTA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8MNNT6..._t3_B00009QOTA
I'm thinking I'll try the GX302..... heck, they are cheap enough. I see there is also a 3.5" '3020' model. Any idea of the difference? And what 6.5" model would be best for the rear?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 477
Likes: 48
The amp is screwed to a board that is glued to the inside of the rear compartment and the sub itself just sits in the bottom. I can still use the lid to completely cover it. but when I'm listening to it I slide the lid up towards the front to keep the amp cool. Sounds really good in my opinion.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Besides that, the GX Series has a soft dome tweeter, which should deliver a smoother sound with a wider dispersion pattern than the Club Series' PEI balanced dome tweeter. Add to that the Harman-Proprietary Tweeter Deflector on the GX Series, that according to JBL "acts as a waveguide, allowing for an angled, rotating speaker, which optimizes the off-axis sound performance. Because all cars are designed differently, this allows impeccable sound to travel throughout all locations in the cabin".
The 5¼" and 6½" from the GX Series should perform a little better at their lower end than the Club Series.
JBL GX Series:
- GX302 (3½")
- Sensitivity: 89 dB
- Frequency Response: 90Hz-21kHz
- GX502 (5¼")
- 91dB
- 65Hz-21kHz
- GX602 (6½")
- 92 dB
- 50Hz-21kHz
JBL Club Series:
- Club 3020 (3½")
- Sensitivity: 89 dB
- Frequency Response: 90Hz-20kHz
- Club 5020 (5¼")
- 91 dB
- 75Hz-20kHz
- Club 6520 (6½")
- 92 dB
- 55Hz-20kHz