jost6453

GCG

Check this Post for first hand feedback on the JL Audio Evolution™ C2 Series 2-way car speakers.

If you're considering to upgrade the front 3½" twiddlers, you should take the opportunity and also replace the 2 rear twiddlers at the same time.

Brunello

jost6453

lonerider2002

Put these in mine---they are a more efficient 2.2-ohm and sound better than stock. You have to reverse the connections though. ( small is big / big is small )

UM Rebel

My factory radio went out. Replaced it with an el cheapo aftermarket radio and the PAC ROEM-VET1 interface to keep factory speaker setup. Works great. Sound is better than factory radio.

WoodyJohnson

I just finished the doors, I installed an Infinity coaxial 6.5" and an Infinity 4" mid range with a bass block capacitor. Clocked in at 2.6 ohms. I'm going to replace the head unit and add an amp too, but I temporarily wired it into the Bose head unit to test them and was surprised how good they sound. I had replaced the rears earlier with JBL's and quite honestly, I didn't think they sounded much different than the stock Bose, I think you need to upgrade the head unit to get any real improvement there.

jost6453

lonerider2002

The resistance of the JL speakers is 4-ohm while all of the Bose are 2-ohm. Replacing the rear 6-1/2" 2-ohm with the JL 4-ohm is fine due to the size and power handling capacity. Volume level remains nearly the same plus you can use the fader to compensate. In the door I tried the JL 4-ohm but found the JBL 2.2-ohm gave me more volume and clearer vocals since it closely matched the Bose 2-ohm speakers. Since they are both coaxial speakers( the JL have silk tweeters--the JBL do not--can't tell any difference) the soundstage sounds great and the Bose subs just keep handling the lower range. What really waked mine up was adding a JL Audio sub and separate amp in the rear. You will need the Metra adapter kit 72-4568 for the rear speakers. I cut and soldered the front connectors. Good luck.

lonerider2002

Here is my sub & amp -- makes a huge dif in overall sound.

jost6453

lonerider2002

Since I started with the JL Audio replacement speakers I did not try a JBL in the rear....just didn't like the sound of the front JL Audio spkrs - thus the 3.5" JBL's. It should work fine though if that is what you would prefer...They re very close to the same timbre. I had a local professional install the amp/sub combo. Routing the bass signal from the head unit to the sub is a bit tricky on the Bose system but I think it sounds great--very strong and clear sound. I'm satisfied with it. At 65 I don't need anymore hearing loss

Oh. and the system sits very nicely in the cubby. I can cover it completely if needed but I usually have it at least half way open to let the heat of the amp out. Plus, if the sub should ever fail(unlikely) it's just an easy switch.

05MBMGTO

A good cheap upgrade while your in there is a set of the Kicker CSC35 or DSC35 speakers and the plug and play Metra 72-4568 harnesses. Its a ~$40 investment that makes a decent difference in a crappy stereo.

pjdbm

I did the JL front & rears with stock radio, not much of a difference of improvement. It was only a few hundred bucks but Meh...........

WoodyJohnson

Has anyone ever re-used the Bose door subs? I'm wondering if I can just throw them under the seats or something.

grassblaster

what is this? were did you put this?

jost6453

lonerider2002

The amp is screwed to a board that is glued to the inside of the rear compartment and the sub itself just sits in the bottom. I can still use the lid to completely cover it. but when I'm listening to it I slide the lid up towards the front to keep the amp cool. Sounds really good in my opinion.

lonerider2002

jost6483 -- Not really--just about any coaxial speaker system will improve the sound because the Bose speakers have no separate tweeters.

GCG

Considering that the OEM Bose twiddlers are 2 ohms, the JBL GX Series @ 2.3 ohms is a better suited replacement than the JBL Club Series @ 3 ohms. Because of this, they can extract more power from the amps.

Besides that, the GX Series has a soft dome tweeter, which should deliver a smoother sound with a wider dispersion pattern than the Club Series' PEI balanced dome tweeter. Add to that the Harman-Proprietary Tweeter Deflector on the GX Series, that according to JBL "acts as a waveguide, allowing for an angled, rotating speaker, which optimizes the off-axis sound performance. Because all cars are designed differently, this allows impeccable sound to travel throughout all locations in the cabin".

The 5¼" and 6½" from the GX Series should perform a little better at their lower end than the Club Series.

JBL GX Series:

• GX302 (3½")
  • Sensitivity: 89 dB
  • Frequency Response: 90Hz-21kHz
• GX502 (5¼")
  • 91dB
  • 65Hz-21kHz
• GX602 (6½")
  • 92 dB
  • 50Hz-21kHz

JBL Club Series:

• Club 3020 (3½")
  • Sensitivity: 89 dB
  • Frequency Response: 90Hz-20kHz
• Club 5020 (5¼")
  • 91 dB
  • 75Hz-20kHz
• Club 6520 (6½")
  • 92 dB
  • 55Hz-20kHz