HEHEEHE....WELL...that was indeed, quite the decision. My car was black though, so that handed me a little visual trickery.

I did do a little strategic "bunching" of the wrap into the cove area to start with...I heated it and pushed into the cove area, then stuck below it, leaving an area of excess material (kinda hard to explain...easier to show). Then, the key was to push it in all as one...if you do it progressively, the portion of wrap available to stretch gets small quick, and that's it. Inevitably, I didn't get either side in all the way, but being my car was black behind it, I cut a "new shape" of the coves opening/outlet, to add to the size of the opening. It made it look more bold...look closely you see the paint shining black. Look below at how big the outlet looks...made it look larger/more aggressive, and due to the contrast, no one ever knew the difference.











VS OEM opening below

 

KITT, very clever with he cove and I do like the look. Even that I can see the black, it looks like a custom decorative stripe in that area.
When you did the Challenger side, did you have enough to wrap inside the seams?
For all of the jobs, how far under did you extend the wrap, like the hood, trunk and doors?
It’s raining here now so I can’t look for myself, but how wide is the hood at it’s widest?
I’ve done a good bit of smaller vinyl parts, tho’ I’m pretty experienced with the radio bezel. 7 times and then when it lifted the last time I ripped it off in favor of texture paint.
To the OP, I also agree with leaving panels on. Last thing you need is the part moving while you are stretching.

 

KITT, a couple of more questions,

1. which version of the knifeless tape did you use? The general purpose or ‘fine cut’?
2. Your cut around the cove opening is excellent, did you use the tape there?
3. Did you ‘bunch’ the cove before setting any other part of the fender?
4. What would you say was the toughest area after the coves?
5. How did you prepare the surface, including paint chips?

 

Thanks for explaining K.I.T.T. I think I understand. The way you did it looks clean and as pointed out it looks like an intentional glossy accent.

The other thing I was thinking of trying would be to do the geometric camo pattern using individually cut pieces and butting them up to each other like a big puzzle. Something like the below but not the below...just the first example I found. Then again maybe a spray wrap/dip would be a better approach...I'm not sure.

 

1. Wrapping the entire side of the car, versus in pieces...ya know...that's really a question of the car many times, because GM carries gaps that Porsche and BMW don't. Plus the underlying color of the car makes a difference. On the challenger, I went free hand versus knifeless gap take (which I sometimes use). In the case of the challenger, for example, I set the wrap, then heated the seam and used the squeegie to push into the gap. Then with a gloved hand, I center my exacto blade, using a finger as a brace, and run the seam down the center. Once the gap is cut, I open the door, and use a combo of heat and my gloved hand, to wrap the edge progressively. I'm VERY....VERRRRRY picky about my edges and corners. If they're sloppy, the wrap is ****.

2. Most hoods are going to be either less than 60" wide or 60" long...so, either way the wrap will do the hood. Plus if you get 3 people...yeah...3...you get two pulling and one heating, you can gain enough for real big *** hoods.

3. Small parts vs big parts...just a totally different game. You can't really learn the behavior of the material with small parts, nor get savvy with air extraction. I too started on small parts...I'm sure most do, that just don't dive into working at a shop or something. First big panel I did was a Porsche hood, then a Porsche roof...then I pulled it all off cause it sucked. Hoods and large span flat panels with mild curvatures are the best starting point. The key is to understand that for large panels you ideally want to stretch first, then place it, not place it, then start stretching it. You want the wrap to have reflex built in, so as it bunches, and you heat it, it retracts and keeps you good.

1. I use the brand Knifeless...they gave me their product at SEMA, told me how to best use it, and I just never waivered. I DO wish it would turn corners better, but I make it work well for me. If I really have a complex situation, I use fine line vinyl tape, run the shape I want, then I run another piece right next to it, so it creates like a "groove" I can see. I then wrap over it, and blade the visible groove...with a light touch you won't touch paint beneath. Then I pull it out like i would knifeless tape, then heat/finish the final stick on the wrap.

2. Cove done with the twin pieces of vinyl tape like explained above

3. On the 2nd one I did more aggressively, yes. The first side...I almost didn't make it to the shape I cut them in. Getting the cove ALL THE WAY without an extra piece...that likely would be real tough and quite likely over stretch the material. You can probably do it, but certainly colors would probably not tolerate it. I see A LOT of cars wrapped, that look a bunch of different shades because installers are infatuated with seamless installs. I'd MUCH rather have a well executed and concealed seam, than stretched/faded/sh*t install.

4. Front bumper of course is challenging...a lot of stretching involved because there is so much complexity to the curvature. The roof had it's challenges, but was less difficult than the bumper to me....at the time. I've done a lot more cars since my C5Z though..so, I am not sure what my answer would be today but...the front bumper was tedious. I will say, I also accentuated the front brake duct inlets the same as the coves, to make them look larger and more profound. Another little visual trick that I threw in.

5. I personally avoid adhesion promoter, and many shops disagree with this because they want longevity. I find that shops worry a lot more about the install, versus what you go through yrs later with removal. Since I am the installer AND the remover...lol...I'm more careful. My car has road rash down low, so I was chipped/rashed up. If I recall back then, I was using window cleaner...basically an alcohol based wipe down. They make products for wrap prep, but that's what I used then and it was fine. I had no failures on my car whatsoever. Wrap, once you really lay it down, then POST CAST it to the proper temp (most people don't even do this)...that wrap is saying there. In addition, when you remove it, you need PLENTY of heat to get the wrap to come off and leave the clear coat behind unscathed.

 

Ya know...I've entertained stuff just like this myself. Over the years, I've accumulated a ton of wrap that isn't enough to do much of anything but I could definitely pull off something like your rendering. Avery is MEGA thin...especially the satin and matte. I think you could definitely pull it off cleanly and it won't be "offensive" on the edges at all. Sure...a printed approach would be better though. Dip...ehhhhhhh....I like dip but....ehhhhhhhhh....maintenance and upkeep can be a real ***** and fixing it...again...a real *****. I'll use dip all day to make chrome trim/mirrors/grilles black...maybe even wheels if you get some bad *** brake dust remover but...while they have some sick color options you can pull off, repairing it isnt happening.

Of all the cars I've wrapped for myself, I have ended up having to replace some panel midway due to damage, bad scuffs, etc. If that were plastidip...it'd be done.

 

I'm located in long island, ny, i'm interested in wrapping my 2001 Z06, what would the going rate to wrap it? or is it easy enough that a beginner with no wrapping experiences can do it? What sites do you use to order the wrap and supplies and which heat gun do you guys recommend? I'm weighing in my options, I'm just bored with the silver look.

 

Sorry that my memory is not as strong as I would like, but a few years ago, at the NY Auto Show there was a guy demo-ing wrap, I think he was either in Queens or close to it on the island.

 

Are those c7 fender flares on your c5? I sure would love to know/see more about that.

 

Yeah, I did a test mockup of them, but then changed course and was doing a full one-off widebody in carbon BUT...then I relocated across the country/switched shops and it fouled up my progress. I'm making some carbon parts for C5 and C6 ahead and doing the widebody shortly. I put the spats on initially and they do work with some modifications to the fender and the spat.


And yes, I was holding my wheel/tire up with speaker boxes...lol. I had the coilovers out and was holding it at ride height for visual.

 

Wow! I really like that. Was it just actual OEM C7 flares you were modifying?

this has got me questioning some plans I had lol.

 

Yep, just oem replacement C7Z/GS stuff. I have the stage 3 aero ends as well, which I was going to add to a alumicore based splitter but...doing something different next.

 

Check with Xpel they may have a pre cut set for you.