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Anyone cut and add a flange to a Ti catback for the simple reason of easy removal in a garage? Before you say "it's possible to do"...I know it is however I'm not building custom 5ft tall ramps or jacking the car up in the back to where the front bumper is damn near hitting the ground. It's sketchy and unsafe to say the least. I've tried to get the car as high as possible with the jacks/jackstands I have and I can't get enough height. I have a friend with a race shop to borrow a lift, but that's a nuisance and taking up his lift for simple projects I may want to do. I tinker a lot and the fact it's a pain to remove the catback is annoying...who knows what I may think up for projects lol.
I want the exhaust removable in the same manner you would remove any aftermarket catback. So I'm thinking maybe cut the pipes on the backside of the diff and add a simple 2-bolt flange?
Last edited by smitty2919; Jul 26, 2019 at 06:02 PM.
Using a lift is 30min away and having to schedule a time/day I can come in for something I can have remove/installed within 10min in my garage doesn't make sense.
Ha, I looked up Ti 2-bolt flanges...$50 each! That makes this a $200 project on a $350 catback LOL
I've used these clamps before on other projects with good results. You would have to find someone near you with titanuim welding experience.
Steve
I currently have two v-band clamps in my pidpipe since they make removal real easy (although stainless). Nature of the beast being Ti, those Vbands are now a $300 project on a $350 catback plus the cost to weld them in...not worth it and I can't seem to justify that.
I didn't realize how expensive Ti bits were. It might have to come down to stainless flanges...
Edit #2...SS to Ti may be a BAD idea also...hmmmm maybe cutting it and using a butt joint style band clamps.
Last edited by smitty2919; Jul 26, 2019 at 01:22 PM.
I'm planning on a bypass, and also have a buddy with a lift. I understand your frustration. I also have another buddy that can weld Ti no problem. Scheduling with two friends on the same day is a task in itself.
Anything I see about welding any material but Ti to Ti is a disaster waiting to happen. So wide band clamps are an option to eliminate the need to weld. Over axle pipes should not rotate since there is 2 bolt flange to the midpipe not allowing that connection to rotate. The rear mufflers slide into the hanger but if not balanced right they could possibly tilt/twist and that would suck.
Another option besides the summit clamp may be to cut the catback, slip a pipe about 3" long centered over both ends with slits similar to how aftermarket companies do slip fit joints and use 4 1" band clamps since those can apply more pressure. Basically doing a DIY butt style band clamp. I've had the thin summit type clamps stretch since they are thin metal.
That last option ensures a straight connection whereas the welded in clamps require a perfect cut and weld on the pipes or the two will be out of alignment. Anyone doing this please post pictures.
I can easily swap my exhaust out with just a jack and jack stands in the garage. I picked up the highest lift low profile jack from Harbor Freight which has a max lift of 24". Put the font of the car on jack stands so the nose doesn't hit the ground and use a moving blanket to protect the exhaust tips since they do get close to the ground. Of course always be careful with the car up this high.