When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's a level beyond my current experience. But if it comes to that, so be it. Seats will probably be the absolute last of my concerns. As will the concept of a C7 steering wheel conversion. I've got a black leather flat bottom from a Z, and I scored a black suede flat Comp wheel for $106 new from Delco. The idea is there, but only if I can find single stage airbag to fit the C7 wheel to work with the C5. I do not have my heart set on that. Just something fun to chase after when other projects are done.
I found a diagram for seat heaters on a Caprice forum (see link). Basically, you just use a relay to allow the switch to operate at lower load. If you want stepped (low/high) function, then picture it with a 3 position switch with two relays; with one paired with a voltage regulator. I was going to build my own but not knowing the load for the heater itself I got wary. I have a pair of seat heater harnesses on order from Ebay that include the fuse, three position switch, relay (and regulator?). We'll see how that works out. https://www.newcaprice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5495
https://www.ebay.com/itm/146155736776
Last edited by Rich Silvestris; Jan 9, 2025 at 08:25 AM.
I received the seat heater harnesses I'd ordered from Ebay. They are made of 18 gauge wire and employ a 15 amp fuse. Does anyone know if that is adequate for this duty?
I mapped out the wiring to understand how they work without a voltage regulator. If I understand it right, the low heat position sends the voltage through the cushion and seatback heaters in series (splitting the voltage drop between them). The high heat position sends power to the two heaters in parallel (so each gets full voltage drop).
The pinout info for the C7 seat connector that was posted on another thread shows individual voltage-in pins for the heaters and multiple unspecified grounds. If there are individual ground pins for the seat heaters, then this method of staging the heat levels could work. The switch would have to carry full load though, and that worries me.
(The 3rd switch position is "off". The dot-dash black line is the ground for the switch indicator LEDs. Dashed means the wire isn't in the circuit. The wire colors are those used in the harness as provided.)
Last edited by Rich Silvestris; Jan 14, 2025 at 09:53 AM.
I received the seat heater harnesses I'd ordered from Ebay. They are made of 18 gauge wire and employ a 15 amp fuse. Does anyone know if that is adequate for this duty?
I only have heated seats on my wife's car and each seat has a dedicated 30A fuse. It's a Lexus LX570.
I only have heated seats on my wife's car and each seat has a dedicated 30A fuse. It's a Lexus LX570.
(and the heat and ventilation in my TLX uses a 20 amp fuse.)
The C8 apparently uses two 15 amp fuses for heat (one each seat) and a single 15 amp fuse for the fans. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...seat-fuse.html
Hmm (?)
I have a post running on the C7 page where I'm trying to run down information on the fans. Sizes are key. 50, 60, 80? They don't look to be 120. Of key import is trying to find the model and any specs on static pressure moreso than cfm as I'm trying to see if there is an easy upgrade to improve flow and the resulting cooling effect. Might as well, right?
Since this thread was brought back, and I just finished my C7 seat swap, and I saw no resolution to the telescopic column and memory question, I would add my experience.
By keeping all the stock seat module, harnesses and plugs with no cutting, my telescopic column and memory for the column both work. I just stuffed the old seat module and harness behind the seat.
And, I tapped into the power wires without cutting, both on the C5 wires coming out of the floor and on the back side of the main harness plug on the C7 seats, no spade terminals plugged into it.
And, my seats are the 18-19 year model version, and they have those ultra tiny pins for the main harness connection plug, so no spade terminals would work on them anyway.
I also noticed in one of the OP's pics, that his car and seats have the same issue as mine, with the seatback release lever **** is mashed into the side panel when the seat is slid fully back.
I'm glad you caught the memory function and figured it out. I know I have read that solution elsewhere in the forum, just maybe not in this thread. I haven't delved deeply into it since my car being a Z06 does not have the column memory.
I'm glad you caught the memory function and figured it out. I know I have read that solution elsewhere in the forum, just maybe not in this thread. I haven't delved deeply into it since my car being a Z06 does not have the column memory.
My only remaining desire would be to have the memory fully function for seat position as well as the column.
And, I'm glad my seats are base seats, no heat or ventilation, so those are not nagging me by not working, don't have them so don't worry about them!
I also noticed in one of the OP's pics, that his car and seats have the same issue as mine, with the seatback release lever **** is mashed into the side panel when the seat is slid fully back.
my lever isn't mashed as i sit today; may have just been the initial pics
I am one who sits moderately far back for fitment. I'll have to keep an eye on this when done.
Can the tab itself be removed and replaced with something of a lower profile?
When I installed my Corbeau A4s with the swapped rails such that the seat back lever was buried in the center torque tube wall I drilled a hole in the end of the metal tab and installed a pull ribbon on it. In my case it was a Mighty Mouse catch can key lanyard which he no longer sells. Basically, a strong flexible fabric pull tab. Any similar pull tab can be used as well such as the hard aircraft preflight check tabs likewise mounted to a key ring or slot. Anything like that would allow you to cut back the metal tab if it protrudes to be a minimal height, tuck in nicely, and sti be fully functional.
The wristlet style (I googled the product) is the most comfortable to use. All would work. I'd probably make myself a parachord one. I can do the same for anyone interested. I'm down to my giant green roll but can do black with reflective weave in them too if I source it.
@Tusc I cut the **** on the end of the lever to make it clear, cut too much off the driver side, cut the passenger side off less and it is fine, just looks a little raggedy,
I just had not seen anyone mention it in any C7 seat swap discussions or youtube video.
I have seen a couple of other aftermarket seat installs like yours where they used some sort of extension for the seatback lever, either a pull like you did or actually extending the lever.
My ocd issue is going to be the removal of the side impact airbags and covering the gaping hole they leave. I looked up the seat back covers for the comp seats and would simply order two more and cut the corresponding opposite seat contour pieces out to make a proper seal or cover except they are $250 each and that is not worthwhile. I don't know how to reliably make molds or work in plastic or carbon fiber or I'd simply make the opposite seat molds and use those.
But, that's not the point, the point is that it does hit when the seat is adjusted all the way back.
My point is that it depends on your overall seating position. My seat does not have to be moved all the way back when I drive therefore the lever does not hit.
My point is that it depends on your overall seating position. My seat does not have to be moved all the way back when I drive therefore the lever does not hit.
But that is not the point of my question or the actual issue.
The point is that it can go back far enough to interfere with the lever.
