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Out of curiosity what other high powered/sports cars have you owned?
Bunch of older cars when I was young. 79 Trans Am with a 403 olds, 79 Cutlass w/ mild 350. Had an R53 Mini for a while. I’ve been into Harleys for the past 10 years. This is my first real sports car. I love the car just the way it is but that’s just not who I am. I love modding and making something mine. I’m looking to make some decent power and improving the reliability. This thing is 20 years old. Technology has come a long way since it rolled off the line.
Well if you want 500 horsepower while improving reliability, I wouldn’t be using a naturally aspirated LS1 to get there. 500whp is a max effort build on an LS1/6 and those aren’t going to be more reliable than stock.
500whp out of an LS3 is a whole lot more attainable without having to go too extreme, but it already sounds like the C5 is the fastest car you’ve ever owned, so if you just want “not stock” because you don’t like stock, then I would start with bolt ons and a cam.
you say you go into hiding during the winter, so if you go extreme this year, what are you gonna do next year
Well if you want 500 horsepower while improving reliability, I wouldn’t be using a naturally aspirated LS1 to get there. 500whp is a max effort build on an LS1/6 and those aren’t going to be more reliable than stock.
500whp out of an LS3 is a whole lot more attainable without having to go too extreme, but it already sounds like the C5 is the fastest car you’ve ever owned, so if you just want “not stock” because you don’t like stock, then I would start with bolt ons and a cam.
you say you go into hiding during the winter, so if you go extreme this year, what are you gonna do next year
500 was a goal. My list is long but I don’t see adding updated heads, headers, cam, lifters, springs, rockers, balancer, water pump, oil pump, timing chain, injectors, intake, & throttle body causing reliability issues. It’s either replacing unreliable components on the LS1 or improving air, fuel, spark or exhaust.
500 was a goal. My list is long but I don’t see adding updated heads, headers, cam, lifters, springs, rockers, balancer, water pump, oil pump, timing chain, injectors, intake, & throttle body causing reliability issues. It’s either replacing unreliable components on the LS1 or improving air, fuel, spark or exhaust.
Trust me, I’ll find something to keep me busy.
no, probably not going to compromise reliability much with a HCI build, but definitely not going to be more reliable than stock.
you’re also not going to be anywhere near 500whp without spinning to nearly 7500 rpm on a stock cube NA LS1.
A nice HCI build would be massively fun, and very reliable if done well, just don’t expect more than 450-460 at the tire unless you’re willing to replace valve springs regularly and rev much higher than stock
You don’t see it because most people don’t see the importance of running high compression around 11:8-12:1 out of these motors to get the most power, along with the right cam and quench, this is easily done on 93 octane
this was my first build, very basic build
on a dyno dynamics dyno
tfs 215’s
.045 gasket
fast 102
g5x2 cam
lg street headers
stock 3.42
Just my .02, but those LG headers may be one of the keys. In talking to Kurt Urban years ago, LG copied the old Wheel to Wheel Powertrain "World Challenge" header design that W2W engineered. They were a great header. They still exist, under the LG name. Most guys here remember W2W, and have heard of Kurt. Enough said, and damn nice numbers. Maybe I missed it, but how large is your motor?
Well if you want 500 horsepower while improving reliability, I wouldn’t be using a naturally aspirated LS1 to get there. 500whp is a max effort build on an LS1/6 and those aren’t going to be more reliable than stock.
500whp out of an LS3 is a whole lot more attainable without having to go too extreme, but it already sounds like the C5 is the fastest car you’ve ever owned, so if you just want “not stock” because you don’t like stock, then I would start with bolt ons and a cam.
you say you go into hiding during the winter, so if you go extreme this year, what are you gonna do next year
I have a 2000 Vert, and with just bolt ons and a decent, non dyno, tune, I finally ended up with a car that ran 12.80s consistently, at 109-110mph. This was thru stock, early exhaust manifolds, no cats, thru Flowmasters, A4 trans, 3.15 rearend. Wish I'd have stopped there.......
Last edited by grinder11; Nov 6, 2020 at 12:23 PM.
Reason: Spell and more info to add
Just my .02, but those LG headers may be one of the keys. In talking to Kurt Urban years ago, LG copied the old Wheel to Wheel Powertrain "World Challenge" header design that W2W engineered. They were a great header. They still exist, under the LG name. Most guys here remember W2W, and have heard of Kurt. Enough said, and damn nice numbers. Maybe I missed it, but how large is your motor?
Thats just it he is saying this is a 5.7 and that is a ragged edge built 5.7 if this is the case in my opinion. I researched all I could before doing my work and talked to the shops locally. 500whp on a 5.7 NA build is like unobtainable from what I learned.
Last edited by dskinsler83; Nov 6, 2020 at 01:09 PM.
Just my .02, but those LG headers may be one of the keys. In talking to Kurt Urban years ago, LG copied the old Wheel to Wheel Powertrain "World Challenge" header design that W2W engineered. They were a great header. They still exist, under the LG name. Most guys here remember W2W, and have heard of Kurt. Enough said, and damn nice numbers. Maybe I missed it, but how large is your motor?
The lg headers are good along with their cams, I think some 1 7/8 would give some more power up top but I doubt I’ll change them unless came across a deal but regardless it’s a stock bottom end ls6 04z
The lg headers are good along with their cams, I think some 1 7/8 would give some more power up top but I doubt I’ll change them unless came across a deal but regardless it’s a stock bottom end ls6 04z
Would the LG long tubes have ground clearance issues on a lowered car?
I don't know anything about Home Depot Quick Jacks, but FWIW there is a place in S. Michigan that sells 2 post lifts for $1,495, or $1,595.00. ARESCO. I bought a 2 post lift last time I had to pull the drive train. Almost 10 years old, no problems. Just sayin'......
EDIT: NOT $1,500/$1,600 anymore. Now $1,899.00 Sorry, I guess they've gone up some!!
Last edited by grinder11; Nov 9, 2020 at 12:55 PM.
Reason: Spell and more info to add
