Hey everyone, quick question for anyone running C6 shift *****. I know the adapted ones delete the screw/press on attachment and are tapped/threaded for C5 shifter threads. My question for those that have one, is what exactly does is look like on yours? Do the pull the entire plastic screw attachment piece out and thread the **** itself, or do they just trim the screw hole off and thread the plastic inside the ****? The reason I ask is I'm adapting a C6 **** for another car, so I'm weighing my options how to do it. It's an M12 shifter, so unfortunately a bit smaller then the C5 shifter. Thanks in advance
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You're in luck, I just swapped mine out for a heavier weight **** (which isn't as aesthetically pleasing nor feel as good in my hand...but shifts twice as good as the lighter weight C6 ****).

To me it looks like the inside is shimmed and that causes the gear shifter threads to self thread the plastic that's left inside after removing the post.

Refer to pics below to see what I mean.


Looks to be shimmed

 

Gotcha. Interesting idea, don't think I can replicate it. To give it a bit of weight and really get it jammed in there, I think I'm going to go with some sort of adapter or maybe even just a lug nut

 

I hope you figure it out. I love the C6 **** but due to its light weight once modified for a C5 it just isn't ideal in aggressive shifting situations.. Mind you I used that shifter **** for 10 plus years, but shifting was always a test in accuracy on my part. The heavier ***** shift much truer.

So if you can pull it off and make it heavier that would be awesome. Then you can let me know how you did it or sell me one cheap.

I may experiment with a few options to add weight to mine. Just haven't gotten around to it.

Good luck!

 

Well, if I'm seeing things right, the whole "modified to fit" may or may not be a scam 10 second mod​​​​​ by the companies that do it. Once I filed off the screw hole tab, I took a peak inside and sure enough, looks close to if not identical to yours.

I think all that is done, is the entire collar is cut off and you just thread a stock C6 shifter onto your C5 shifter handle lol.
This is going on my forester, and I was dumb founded to feel the factory shift **** honestly feels close to 3x the weight of the C6 ****. None the less, this seems like a pretty simple project. Both have a collar with the same dimensions and are the same depth, the C6 **** is just hollowed out wider. So I'll either remove the plastic insert entirely in favor for a metal female adapter or just get one that threads into the plastic, much in the same way it sounds like yours is.

 

Nice work! I guess "modified to fit" just means gutted. Lol!

I think I only paid $89 for it back in 2007 or 2008. So it was priced low enough not to care.

As I mentioned above, the weight of the **** makes a big difference in shift point accuracy. So be sure to weight that one you are modifying if you can.

The difference/benfit with the heavier **** is considerable. I would miss shifts here and there with the C6 ****. Swapped it out for a queue ball **** and haven't missed a shift yet. No other changes to the car or my driving technique. it's all in the ball.

 

What do you guys think of the MTI shifter? I don't think my wife could drive my car with it installed. There's an upside to everything.

 

I've never used an MTI. I have been running a B&M Ripper on my black coupe since 2004. I also had a Hurst in my silver coupe. Which was easier to shift than the B&M. The B&M takes a bit of effort to throw as it's very tight. A weighted shift **** also makes a big difference in shift capability on any shifter. Simple physics.

My wifes old roommate (5'1 and 103 lbs soaking wet) was able to drive my B&M equipped car just fine. She's the first and last woman to drive my car and that was 2006.

 

Before I get anything mounted permanently, I'll try and get a weight of my forester and the C6 ****. I still have a leather **** from my Mach 1 as well. It's a hair smaller, but thicker then the C6 **** and it clearly weighs more as well. Kinda wild.

 

Could you share that simple physics equation that illustrates how changing the mass of the shift **** makes a difference in the shift capability?

 

I'm curious to hear how much the hollowed out C6 **** weighs. I don't have a gram scale anymore, otherwise I would weigh it right now and let you know.


All in all...It may not make much of a difference in your Forester unless you drive her hard and a tendency for aggressive shifts.

 

P(momentum) = M(mass) x V(velocity)

Same concept as light hammer driving a nail vs. a heavy hammer driving a nail.

Read this:

https://raceseng.com/blog/general/wh...shift-****-do/

 

Same. I have a bathroom scale and that's it, fortunately I'm sure one of the shops at the tech school I'm working at has a gram scale, maybe even the nursing program.
I wasn't intending to remove the insert, as we saw it was shimmed, making threading it in the easy option. Unfortunately, the corvette shifter is 9/16(~14.2mm) and my shifter is 12mm. There isn't a single 12 to 15mm female/female adapter out there, nor a threaded sleave to accomplish the same thing. 12 to 16mm are near impossible to find(one on Amazon that'll arrive in weeks or 2 months), and I don't know if the plastic insert walls are thick enough to bore out almost 2mm.

So... to keep this semi-corvette related so this doesn't get deleted, there are multiple companies that sell M18 threaded shift ***** with m8/10/12 threaded adapters so they can be used on most cars. Tonight I'm going to measure the diameter of the actual hole in the shift ****, and see if pulling the C6 style screw connection and replacing it with one of those would do the trick. I see some older threads saying their modified ***** eventually strip the threads if driven hard. If the plastic of the **** is harder then the plastic of the insert, it might be worth someone making an x/x" to 9/16" adapter instead. The upside is, although it would really be a small change, the insert would be steel instead of plastic, at least adding a little umph to the ****.

 

The M18 adapter may work. I also think Holley makes one for 12mm to accept a Hurst Shift *****. You can also look here:

https://www.americanshifter.com/prod...-****-adapters

 

Ive never had an issue racing with my C6 shifter and even lighter custom CF C6 ****. I agree that sometimes a heavier **** can feel better, but it certainly doesnt effect the ability to shift properly.

 

Agreed, it comes down mostly to preference. Similar to how some like the anti venom mod and some hate it. I found there is in fact a noticeable difference in shift engagement from one **** to the next. More specifically when weight is considered with a notchy short throw shifter.

Speaking from my own experience I have truer shifts with a heavier **** through my B&M ripper. The short notchy shifter likes the heavier weight ****. I wasn't a believer until I tried it for myself. Now I know a heavier **** works better for me with my setup.

Just like some guys bowl better with a heavier ball. Either ball rolls true and can be controlled, but one works better for some than the other.

 

You're missing a crucial piece of the equation- the force applied by the driver. It seems obvious that changing the mass of the **** by even a few ounces would be dwarfed by a small change in force applied by the driver's hand and arm.
Driving nails is much different than moving a shift ****. The shifter is mounted so has a lever effect. Pretty challenging for a layperson to get the right equation and calculate the variables involved.

 

This !

increasing shifter ball height will decreased effort required to make a shift, another reason cylindrical handles are often preferred

 

Variance in force applied by the driver is practically insignnificant. The benefit in the weight of the **** has more to do with the shift gates. More weight at the top of the fulcrum (shift post) may require more force (negligible) at the onset but once in motion the weight of the **** does more work for you through the gate.

The hammer compsrison is simple. You hold a hammer in your hand and your wrist is your pivot point. If you are hammering a nail into a wall does the heavier hammer drive the nail harder than a lighter hammer with same speed of motion, same amount of force applied?

I'm not here to debate physics. I'm here to share my experience on how a heavier weight **** has worked for me, and that the heavier **** on a short throw has a more solid feeling shift.

In fact Honda just changed the shift ***** (90 grams more than previous Type-R's) in the 2020+ Civic Type-R's for this very reason.

Let me ask...have you driven an MN6 C5 with a short throw shifter and different weighted shift ***** to have an educated opinion? Or are you here to play armchair engineer and debate why you think it doesn't compute with your logic?

 

So we've debunked your "simple physics claim and your equation doesn't account for the force applied by the driver. Now you claim,
The variance in force applied by the driver is from how many of what units on the low end to how many on the high end?

And not relevant. You're not driving a nail when you're shifting. If you're claiming a relevant relationship in the equation write it out and explain it.

Then don't bring up physics. They are rarely simple.

Your feelings are a valuable contribution. If you can back up feelings with good data that's even more valuable.

Interesting deflection! I look forward to you providing the equation showing the force applied by the driver is insignificant compared to a heavier ****.