Headlight gear
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 106
From: The Natures Coast/Caribbean
Headlight gear
I’ve replaced the nylon gears twice, but both times I’ve been able to a) turn lights on and disconnect battery or manually crank up. How do I work on it without being able to pop up headlamp? Thank you….
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 594
From: Prescott, Arizona
Open the hood, manually crank the headlights up with the **** on the back of the motors. Disconnect the battery to prevent auto retraction while working on them.
Check post # 8 in the thread below.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-spinning.html
Check post # 8 in the thread below.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-spinning.html
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 106
From: The Natures Coast/Caribbean
Open the hood, manually crank the headlights up with the **** on the back of the motors. Disconnect the battery to prevent auto retraction while working on them.
Check post # 8 in the thread below.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-spinning.html
Check post # 8 in the thread below.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-spinning.html
I did try to crank it up with **** and tried to assist it up with other hand, has resistance
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 106
From: The Natures Coast/Caribbean
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,862
Likes: 594
From: Prescott, Arizona
When the plastic gears strip, it can be difficult to wind the motor gear past the stripped spot. Try lifting the headlight assembly and turning the ****, understanding that there may be some resistance getting past the stripped area.
I put brass gears in in 2009- still going.
I put brass gears in in 2009- still going.
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When the plastic gears strip, it can be difficult to wind the motor gear past the stripped spot. Try lifting the headlight assembly and turning the ****, understanding that there may be some resistance getting past the stripped area.
I put brass gears in in 2009- still going.
I put brass gears in in 2009- still going.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 106
From: The Natures Coast/Caribbean
Update, after returning from the gym, I decided to place a screw driver on the linkage and I gave it a tap, i then turn the ****, you know the head light started moving upwards. Yes I have completed both head fights this week with the brass gear. Ty
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Redondo Beach CA
I have read that since the gear only wears in one area, a simple fix is to just flip the nylon gear over and use the unused side of the same nylon gear wheel for the next 100,000 miles.
Pretty sure I don't use my headlights as often as others here, but with well over 100,000 miles on a nylon gear set that hasn't failed yet, I think I will just flip the OEM gear and see how long the unused side will last. While I object to fixing things twice, I don't think this headlight gear wear is all of a sudden going to become an issue. While bullet proofing the gear is fine, it seems a little unneeded , given the intrinsic durability of the OEM part, verses buying more stuff without great need.
Not trying to form a crusade or debate other's past buying decisions. Just pointing out that there is a solution that doesn't involve buying parts , or changing the OEM design. One thing about nylon gears, they are more tolerant of abuse, and it might be a good thing the teeth strip out before it damages the more expensive parts. If a brass gear binds up from poor lubrication, or any reason it might cost more than the replacement cost of a stripped nylon gear, if you can find one.
"
One would assume , since both gear materials were available to the original design engineers, the decision was made on costs. However, not being an engineer skilled in gear train design, I can't really make that seemingly safe assumption, not being conversant in the best practices. It could just as easily be that the Nylon gear was purposely chosen as a weak link , a sacrificial low cost piece put in place to prevent other more costly damage. A smart design based on years of building pop up headlights. If I were guessing, the selection was made because of cost, low noise, and the more forgiving properties of the plastic gear material.
Pretty sure I don't use my headlights as often as others here, but with well over 100,000 miles on a nylon gear set that hasn't failed yet, I think I will just flip the OEM gear and see how long the unused side will last. While I object to fixing things twice, I don't think this headlight gear wear is all of a sudden going to become an issue. While bullet proofing the gear is fine, it seems a little unneeded , given the intrinsic durability of the OEM part, verses buying more stuff without great need.
Not trying to form a crusade or debate other's past buying decisions. Just pointing out that there is a solution that doesn't involve buying parts , or changing the OEM design. One thing about nylon gears, they are more tolerant of abuse, and it might be a good thing the teeth strip out before it damages the more expensive parts. If a brass gear binds up from poor lubrication, or any reason it might cost more than the replacement cost of a stripped nylon gear, if you can find one.
"
One would assume , since both gear materials were available to the original design engineers, the decision was made on costs. However, not being an engineer skilled in gear train design, I can't really make that seemingly safe assumption, not being conversant in the best practices. It could just as easily be that the Nylon gear was purposely chosen as a weak link , a sacrificial low cost piece put in place to prevent other more costly damage. A smart design based on years of building pop up headlights. If I were guessing, the selection was made because of cost, low noise, and the more forgiving properties of the plastic gear material.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 856
From: Walhalla South Carolina
I have read that since the gear only wears in one area, a simple fix is to just flip the nylon gear over and use the unused side of the same nylon gear wheel for the next 100,000 miles.
Pretty sure I don't use my headlights as often as others here, but with well over 100,000 miles on a nylon gear set that hasn't failed yet, I think I will just flip the OEM gear and see how long the unused side will last. While I object to fixing things twice, I don't think this headlight gear wear is all of a sudden going to become an issue. While bullet proofing the gear is fine, it seems a little unneeded , given the intrinsic durability of the OEM part, verses buying more stuff without great need.
Not trying to form a crusade or debate other's past buying decisions. Just pointing out that there is a solution that doesn't involve buying parts , or changing the OEM design. One thing about nylon gears, they are more tolerant of abuse, and it might be a good thing the teeth strip out before it damages the more expensive parts. If a brass gear binds up from poor lubrication, or any reason it might cost more than the replacement cost of a stripped nylon gear, if you can find one.
"
One would assume , since both gear materials were available to the original design engineers, the decision was made on costs. However, not being an engineer skilled in gear train design, I can't really make that seemingly safe assumption, not being conversant in the best practices. It could just as easily be that the Nylon gear was purposely chosen as a weak link , a sacrificial low cost piece put in place to prevent other more costly damage. A smart design based on years of building pop up headlights. If I were guessing, the selection was made because of cost, low noise, and the more forgiving properties of the plastic gear material.
Pretty sure I don't use my headlights as often as others here, but with well over 100,000 miles on a nylon gear set that hasn't failed yet, I think I will just flip the OEM gear and see how long the unused side will last. While I object to fixing things twice, I don't think this headlight gear wear is all of a sudden going to become an issue. While bullet proofing the gear is fine, it seems a little unneeded , given the intrinsic durability of the OEM part, verses buying more stuff without great need.
Not trying to form a crusade or debate other's past buying decisions. Just pointing out that there is a solution that doesn't involve buying parts , or changing the OEM design. One thing about nylon gears, they are more tolerant of abuse, and it might be a good thing the teeth strip out before it damages the more expensive parts. If a brass gear binds up from poor lubrication, or any reason it might cost more than the replacement cost of a stripped nylon gear, if you can find one.
"
One would assume , since both gear materials were available to the original design engineers, the decision was made on costs. However, not being an engineer skilled in gear train design, I can't really make that seemingly safe assumption, not being conversant in the best practices. It could just as easily be that the Nylon gear was purposely chosen as a weak link , a sacrificial low cost piece put in place to prevent other more costly damage. A smart design based on years of building pop up headlights. If I were guessing, the selection was made because of cost, low noise, and the more forgiving properties of the plastic gear material.
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Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Virginia
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I have replaced the motors on both of my headlights because they failed, and a new motor is cheap. I didn't want to have to mess with gluing the housing. However, If I was going to replace the gear, I would 100% go with the metal option with a bracket to help hold together the housing.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 123
From: Ozark Alabama
I have read that since the gear only wears in one area, a simple fix is to just flip the nylon gear over and use the unused side of the same nylon gear wheel for the next 100,000 miles.
Pretty sure I don't use my headlights as often as others here, but with well over 100,000 miles on a nylon gear set that hasn't failed yet, I think I will just flip the OEM gear and see how long the unused side will last. While I object to fixing things twice, I don't think this headlight gear wear is all of a sudden going to become an issue. While bullet proofing the gear is fine, it seems a little unneeded , given the intrinsic durability of the OEM part, verses buying more stuff without great need.
Not trying to form a crusade or debate other's past buying decisions. Just pointing out that there is a solution that doesn't involve buying parts , or changing the OEM design. One thing about nylon gears, they are more tolerant of abuse, and it might be a good thing the teeth strip out before it damages the more expensive parts. If a brass gear binds up from poor lubrication, or any reason it might cost more than the replacement cost of a stripped nylon gear, if you can find one.
"
One would assume , since both gear materials were available to the original design engineers, the decision was made on costs. However, not being an engineer skilled in gear train design, I can't really make that seemingly safe assumption, not being conversant in the best practices. It could just as easily be that the Nylon gear was purposely chosen as a weak link , a sacrificial low cost piece put in place to prevent other more costly damage. A smart design based on years of building pop up headlights. If I were guessing, the selection was made because of cost, low noise, and the more forgiving properties of the plastic gear material.
Pretty sure I don't use my headlights as often as others here, but with well over 100,000 miles on a nylon gear set that hasn't failed yet, I think I will just flip the OEM gear and see how long the unused side will last. While I object to fixing things twice, I don't think this headlight gear wear is all of a sudden going to become an issue. While bullet proofing the gear is fine, it seems a little unneeded , given the intrinsic durability of the OEM part, verses buying more stuff without great need.
Not trying to form a crusade or debate other's past buying decisions. Just pointing out that there is a solution that doesn't involve buying parts , or changing the OEM design. One thing about nylon gears, they are more tolerant of abuse, and it might be a good thing the teeth strip out before it damages the more expensive parts. If a brass gear binds up from poor lubrication, or any reason it might cost more than the replacement cost of a stripped nylon gear, if you can find one.
"
One would assume , since both gear materials were available to the original design engineers, the decision was made on costs. However, not being an engineer skilled in gear train design, I can't really make that seemingly safe assumption, not being conversant in the best practices. It could just as easily be that the Nylon gear was purposely chosen as a weak link , a sacrificial low cost piece put in place to prevent other more costly damage. A smart design based on years of building pop up headlights. If I were guessing, the selection was made because of cost, low noise, and the more forgiving properties of the plastic gear material.
Did this years ago to one side that failed and have not had another problem with it. I daily drive my car and use the headlights every day.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 150
Likes: 39
I found the original owner had replaced mine with the brass gear. This was found after my one headlight would not open, I attempted to use the manual opener but this also would not work. What I discovered was the round cover of the case you have to remove to get at the gear had separated from the case. The previous glue/epoxy did not hold and the case cover had separated about 1/8 inch which in turn allowed the two gears to not mesh. I got the two case peices together again then the light would work. I then removed the motor then case cover thus finding the brass gear. I cleaned everything and re epoxied the two case peices together. You will find the newer repair kits include a "T" shaped bridge that also holds the round case peice to the main case via the mounting screws, this prevents the separation problem from re occurring. Just my two cents I hope it helps.
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