When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey everyone I’m currently a little stuck. I have a 2001 c5 corvette a4, I have $2500 to spend on performance parts. I would like to do 243 heads and a cam but I’m not going to install cam myself because removing the steering rack is a more of a task I want to mess with. With that being said I would have to pay someone to install the cam for me and that would be over budget. The car already has cooks long tube headers and no muffler so very loud but I wanted it that way. Other than that the car is completely stock, factory intake etc. I’ve even thought about just getting a set of 243 heads and a intake or throttle body. I’m just stuck and really considering just getting a set of 243 heads and a intake. Yes I know I need a transmission soon I will be getting a rpm trans once taxes come back. Basically my question is what would you do with $2500. Thanks
If I were you, I would keep the money that you have, and save for the cam and heads at the same time. Honestly, I doubt you'll be making enough power that the stock A4 won't be able to handle it. The stock A4 will hold 450 at the wheel pretty well. I did have to switch to the RPM stage 5 when I added my supercharger, but I've got 500at the wheel. Also don't forget that you will need a tune with the new cam. There was likely a tune done when the Kooks were added, but you'll still need a new one with the cam.
I would put all of the money towards a cam which is about 100+hp. (You may change your mind about no exhaust after the cam install though. Car will be very loud)
243 heads and an intake is probably only about 30hp max. Won’t even feel the difference driving.
I would put all of the money towards a cam which is about 100+hp. (You may change your mind about no exhaust after the cam install though. Car will be very loud)
243 heads and an intake is probably only about 30hp max. Won’t even feel the difference driving.
I agree to a point. A cam alone with your stock gearing would have to be fairly mild, unless you first gear up and maybe a converter upgrade. Just putting a big cam and retaining the 2.73 rear will be a dog from a start, and even make you hate it in traffic.
I agree to a point. A cam alone with your stock gearing would have to be fairly mild, unless you first gear up and maybe a converter upgrade. Just putting a big cam and retaining the 2.73 rear will be a dog from a start, and even make you hate it in traffic.
you can do a stage 2 cam with the stock a4 trans no problem. 400 wheel is safe. Anything more you need a converter. But if I have $2500 I’m not buying 243 heads. Minimal benefit compared to the cost and labor.
Gear and converter might be better bang for the buck. Might cost you 3500-4000 for that, installed and shift points adjusted. I plan on doing this in a few months. I got one quote for about 3800 for a stage 2 RPM gear (373) and yank 3600ss converter.
you could just do the gear, I’m guessing 2800-3000 installed with shift points adjusted. Or vice versa, just do converter.
Gear and converter might be better bang for the buck. Might cost you 3500-4000 for that, installed and shift points adjusted. I plan on doing this in a few months. I got one quote for about 3800 for a stage 2 RPM gear (373) and yank 3600ss converter.
you could just do the gear, I’m guessing 2800-3000 installed with shift points adjusted. Or vice versa, just do converter.
this is horrendous advice. $4000 for gears and a converter. Maybe If you have a blower pushing 700 hp.
Thanks everyone for responding. Just thought about a btr stage 3 cam without heads. If I do this do I still need a torque converter the car has the z51 package which for the a4 it has a 3:15 rear end
Thanks everyone for responding. Just thought about a btr stage 3 cam without heads. If I do this do I still need a torque converter the car has the z51 package which for the a4 it has a 3:15 rear end
talk to your installer and your tuner. If you detune a 3 you won’t need a converter. Max a 2 you won’t need a converter. Max a 3 you’ll def need a converter.
If the OP has a 2.73 gear, that puts a LOT of nails in the performance coffin!! I don't know of anyone running 2.73 gears, and calling their car-C5 or otherwise-a performance car, or muscle car. It's just not done. If the OP keeps that 2.73, the car will never perform to its potential. Whoever made that gear the standard gear on the C5 probably recommended the Chevy Vega be put into production, too! The base gear on the A4 should've been either the 3.15, or the 3.42. If he truly wants a performance car, a 2.73 gear is a lousy place to start, I'm sorry, but it just is. The 2.73 will also put a lot more strain on that 4L60E, than a 3.42 or 3.73!! I have a stock 4L60E that has 125,000 trouble free miles on it, the last 65,000 miles with a 3,200 stall Yank, and a 500whp LS7 jerking on it. I'm running a 3.42 diff. OP-Build your car in stages. We know it's not cheap. But having a 2.73 diff will keep your C5 from being what you really want it to be. Go with a 3.42, or 3.73 gear in the diff, and build from there. Best of luck to you......
. Just thought about a btr stage 3 cam without heads.
There is absolutely no reason on earth to run a BTR 3 cam in an LS1 engine especially with little to nothing done otherwise to the engine. That is almost the textbook definition to the term donkey dick cam.
Now if you truly come to reason with yourself that you only want that cam for the sound? that's your prerogative. Honestly you will probably get smoked by someone with a cam half the size.
If the OP has a 2.73 gear, that puts a LOT of nails in the performance coffin!! I don't know of anyone running 2.73 gears, and calling their car-C5 or otherwise-a performance car, or muscle car. It's just not done. If the OP keeps that 2.73, the car will never perform to its potential. Whoever made that gear the standard gear on the C5 probably recommended the Chevy Vega be put into production, too! The base gear on the A4 should've been either the 3.15, or the 3.42. If he truly wants a performance car, a 2.73 gear is a lousy place to start, I'm sorry, but it just is. The 2.73 will also put a lot more strain on that 4L60E, than a 3.42 or 3.73!! I have a stock 4L60E that has 125,000 trouble free miles on it, the last 65,000 miles with a 3,200 stall Yank, and a 500whp LS7 jerking on it. I'm running a 3.42 diff. OP-Build your car in stages. We know it's not cheap. But having a 2.73 diff will keep your C5 from being what you really want it to be. Go with a 3.42, or 3.73 gear in the diff, and build from there. Best of luck to you......
Thanks everyone for responding. Just thought about a btr stage 3 cam without heads. If I do this do I still need a torque converter the car has the z51 package which for the a4 it has a 3:15 rear end
What is your primary use for this car? What are your end goals? I have to say that in most cases I would highly recommend AGAINST putting a BTR stage 3 cam on a car that doesn't already have the supporting mods. Keep in mind that with your current setup the car would be almost undrivable on the street. You would certainly need a higher stall converter. You might need to upgrade the transmission at that point. It would also be foolish to swap to a cam like that without getting heads to match. t goes without saying that you'll need upgraded valve springs, unless you want the whole thing to grenade on you. There is an old saying that is 100% true, and there is no way around it. Fast, Reliable, Cheap...pick 2. It is impossible to have all three. For reliable power, you need to save up. Sure, you can probably do just a Stage 3 cam for $2500.00, but I honestly doubt you'll be happy with the results.
What is your primary use for this car? What are your end goals? I have to say that in most cases I would highly recommend AGAINST putting a BTR stage 3 cam on a car that doesn't already have the supporting mods. Keep in mind that with your current setup the car would be almost undrivable on the street. You would certainly need a higher stall converter. You might need to upgrade the transmission at that point. It would also be foolish to swap to a cam like that without getting heads to match. t goes without saying that you'll need upgraded valve springs, unless you want the whole thing to grenade on you. There is an old saying that is 100% true, and there is no way around it. Fast, Reliable, Cheap...pick 2. It is impossible to have all three. For reliable power, you need to save up. Sure, you can probably do just a Stage 3 cam for $2500.00, but I honestly doubt you'll be happy with the results.
This is why I backed off getting a cam change out. Cost 4K but that was with springs, cam, oil pump, timing chain, retainers, hb. But then eventully will need tq converter, heads, etc. So waste of money. I feel better to find a manual car. No need for the work of installing a TQ converter may have the heads already,etc.