Battery relocation 👍or👎
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 239
Likes: 35
From: Dubai
Battery relocation 👍or👎
Thinking of relocating the battery to the trunk , is it worth it ?
- Keeping it out of hot environment for longevity.
- PCM safety against any type of leaking.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Ahmad
- Keeping it out of hot environment for longevity.
- PCM safety against any type of leaking.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Ahmad
Popular Reply
Nov 19, 2023, 10:35 AM
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 694
From: Avon Lake OH
I have worked in the automotive industry for a long time and have also relocated a fair amount of batteries in vehicles over the years. Here are some comments about the type and jacketing material for the cables and some pointers on installation.
First and foremost - Please make do NOT use cheap materials!
Unless you are building a race car where you are worried about every single pound, stay away from copper clad aluminum stranded cables. You would have to use heavier gauge cable to carry the same amperage load as pure copper stranding. I would highly recommend that you run both the Red (positive) and Black (negative) cables all the way forward to the original factory post locations. Do NOT use a short negative ground cable to the frame (or unibody). You will not believe the amount of resistance in a steel frame rail (or unibody chassis). Research automotive parallel grounds - talk about exponential electrical nightmare issues for any Corvette! I would run the cables inside the cabin, not externally below the floor boards for too many reasons. Check the jacketing material on the battery cable and make sure to never use a low temperature (60-90C) rated PVC material (SGT) cable. Class M welding cable (uses 34ga stranding which is much more flexible than typical battery cable) or synthetic rubber jacketed battery cable (SGR) both rated at 105C are acceptable. But the type of cable that is used by the factory in both the C6 and C7 Corvettes with rear mounted batteries is SGX with a cross-linked polyethylene jacket. Rather than use crimp and solder style terminals, I would recommend compression style terminals, which are tin plated cast copper. They are not cheap, but they are very easy to install with simple hand tools. Make sure to seal the terminations with dual wall heat shrink tubing to prevent any corrosion issues. Also make sure to enclose the cables in slit convoluted conduit for extra abrasion protection. Do NOT use the cheap low temperature rated PVC stuff that you will find at the typical automotive parts store. You want to use at least nylon or flame retardant polypropylene conduit. Once inside the engine compartment if the cable(s) are too close to the exhaust system, make sure to use an aluminum faced reflective heat shield cable wrap to protect them from the exhaust system heat. Secure the covered cables with either Adel clamps or convoluted conduit clamps inside the cabin and if needed, stainless steel cable ties in the engine compartment.
And yes I am an engineer that worked for Tier One & Two harness suppliers to both GM and Chrysler over the years. Below is a link to some very good reference info on automotive battery and welding cable;
https://www.iewc.com/resources/techn...specifications
First and foremost - Please make do NOT use cheap materials!
Unless you are building a race car where you are worried about every single pound, stay away from copper clad aluminum stranded cables. You would have to use heavier gauge cable to carry the same amperage load as pure copper stranding. I would highly recommend that you run both the Red (positive) and Black (negative) cables all the way forward to the original factory post locations. Do NOT use a short negative ground cable to the frame (or unibody). You will not believe the amount of resistance in a steel frame rail (or unibody chassis). Research automotive parallel grounds - talk about exponential electrical nightmare issues for any Corvette! I would run the cables inside the cabin, not externally below the floor boards for too many reasons. Check the jacketing material on the battery cable and make sure to never use a low temperature (60-90C) rated PVC material (SGT) cable. Class M welding cable (uses 34ga stranding which is much more flexible than typical battery cable) or synthetic rubber jacketed battery cable (SGR) both rated at 105C are acceptable. But the type of cable that is used by the factory in both the C6 and C7 Corvettes with rear mounted batteries is SGX with a cross-linked polyethylene jacket. Rather than use crimp and solder style terminals, I would recommend compression style terminals, which are tin plated cast copper. They are not cheap, but they are very easy to install with simple hand tools. Make sure to seal the terminations with dual wall heat shrink tubing to prevent any corrosion issues. Also make sure to enclose the cables in slit convoluted conduit for extra abrasion protection. Do NOT use the cheap low temperature rated PVC stuff that you will find at the typical automotive parts store. You want to use at least nylon or flame retardant polypropylene conduit. Once inside the engine compartment if the cable(s) are too close to the exhaust system, make sure to use an aluminum faced reflective heat shield cable wrap to protect them from the exhaust system heat. Secure the covered cables with either Adel clamps or convoluted conduit clamps inside the cabin and if needed, stainless steel cable ties in the engine compartment.
And yes I am an engineer that worked for Tier One & Two harness suppliers to both GM and Chrysler over the years. Below is a link to some very good reference info on automotive battery and welding cable;
https://www.iewc.com/resources/techn...specifications
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 1,213
Add a poll! 2001 Z06 - relocate battery to trunk
1) I refuse to participate in your poll
2) No
3) I like turtles
4) Yes
5) your dum for asking.
5) I have trouble counting past 5
5) I heard batteries leak, replace with a hand crank
1) I refuse to participate in your poll
2) No
3) I like turtles
4) Yes
5) your dum for asking.
5) I have trouble counting past 5
5) I heard batteries leak, replace with a hand crank
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 415
Likes: 284
From: Indianapolis
I'm all for it. There are some things to keep in mind though.
Make sure you run a good sized cable from the battery to the front. No 8 gauge, copper clad aluminum. Minimum 4ga, oxygen free copper, unless you want to risk a fire.
make sure it is a sealed battery, or if not sealed, drill a hole in the rear tub and run a vent.
Don't forget a tie down either. You don't want that thing floating around in the event of a wreck.
Make sure you run a good sized cable from the battery to the front. No 8 gauge, copper clad aluminum. Minimum 4ga, oxygen free copper, unless you want to risk a fire.
make sure it is a sealed battery, or if not sealed, drill a hole in the rear tub and run a vent.
Don't forget a tie down either. You don't want that thing floating around in the event of a wreck.
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I have heard of some that have done the relocation, but I kept the battery in the stock location on the three C5s that I had. Batteries lasted a long time as expected.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 239
Likes: 35
From: Dubai
I'm all for it. There are some things to keep in mind though.
Make sure you run a good sized cable from the battery to the front. No 8 gauge, copper clad aluminum. Minimum 4ga, oxygen free copper, unless you want to risk a fire.
make sure it is a sealed battery, or if not sealed, drill a hole in the rear tub and run a vent.
Don't forget a tie down either. You don't want that thing floating around in the event of a wreck.
Make sure you run a good sized cable from the battery to the front. No 8 gauge, copper clad aluminum. Minimum 4ga, oxygen free copper, unless you want to risk a fire.
make sure it is a sealed battery, or if not sealed, drill a hole in the rear tub and run a vent.
Don't forget a tie down either. You don't want that thing floating around in the event of a wreck.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 239
Likes: 35
From: Dubai
Racer
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 296
Likes: 113
From: Norway, Hallingby
I've relocated the battery in my 03 C5Z. Free up the space, better corner balance, avoid fried battery due to heat.
https://www.z06vette.no/2020/07/battery-relocation.html
https://www.z06vette.no/2020/07/battery-relocation.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 2,934
Likes: 1,690
From: North Coast
I would recommend the Lingenfelter kit for a C5. It is made for the car and likely to best fit and hook up. When relocating there is always a risk of more electrical issues and the Corvette has enough of these already. The made for the C5 kit will help eliminate this.
Even if you have a sealed battery it is still recommenced to try to vent it. Most have burp valves and if they burp they will burp into the car.
The main gain here is handling and you will only notice it at the limits.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
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After Dark makes a nice kit that I plan on buying over winter. For a track car having the weight in the back is better for handling, and I also plan to add an accumulator to the space where the battery was.
97-04 C5 Corvette Optima Battery Rear Relocation Mount Kit – After Dark Speed
97-04 C5 Corvette Optima Battery Rear Relocation Mount Kit – After Dark Speed
Pro
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 667
Likes: 302
From: Nova Scotia Canada
I looked at a few kits and took my plan from them. I was able to get my hands on some excellent components and consulted a chassis/race car builder friend for guidance. It's been in the car for about as long as I've owned the car with zero issues. I installed the batter box in the right rear tub. The muffler had to be removed to install a steel plate so the batter box was mounted solid. It's really not a difficult job.
Keep in mind if the battery goes dead and the trunk is shut it's a pain to get to/remove the battery. In the off season I disconnect the battery and put a rag in the latch so the trunk can't be shut.
Keep in mind if the battery goes dead and the trunk is shut it's a pain to get to/remove the battery. In the off season I disconnect the battery and put a rag in the latch so the trunk can't be shut.
Race Director
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