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Battery relocation 👍or👎

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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 08:15 AM
  #61  
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You know this is one of those exercises that people do just because it is something tge think they can do.
Yes maybe 5% need it done and once into it it is not as easy as it appears to be to do it correctly.

I have seen a number of cars hacked up and even worse in metal cars eaten up with acid or just cut up.

Unless you are racing this is not really needed.
GM moved it because they needed the space for a dry sump.

As for heat snd acid. Use the right battery and no acid, second the heat here is nothing. My Gueto is much hotter snd my batteries have lasted up to 17 years and no less than 12 years.

Do as shown and run the cable in the car not under it. Protect the cable where it can rub with grommets. Secure it wire clamp brackets too. Make sure you have a solid mount to more than fiberglass. You may even want to review the rules of a racing series to make sure your install is safe.

‘’There is no right choice here it is your choice. Just make sure to do it right or you may create more issue than help.

For me I would rather put the money in a cam of damper.

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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 09:30 AM
  #62  
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One additional motivation to do this is to gain needed usable directly accessible space in the engine bay.
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 09:53 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by hyperv6
You know this is one of those exercises that people do just because it is something tge think they can do.
Yes maybe 5% need it done and once into it it is not as easy as it appears to be to do it correctly.

I have seen a number of cars hacked up and even worse in metal cars eaten up with acid or just cut up.

Unless you are racing this is not really needed.
GM moved it because they needed the space for a dry sump.

As for heat snd acid. Use the right battery and no acid, second the heat here is nothing. My Gueto is much hotter snd my batteries have lasted up to 17 years and no less than 12 years.

Do as shown and run the cable in the car not under it. Protect the cable where it can rub with grommets. Secure it wire clamp brackets too. Make sure you have a solid mount to more than fiberglass. You may even want to review the rules of a racing series to make sure your install is safe.

‘’There is no right choice here it is your choice. Just make sure to do it right or you may create more issue than help.

For me I would rather put the money in a cam of damper.
I would most likely not be moving the battery if it had not already been done by @Zip Corvettes on my car. Their install had the cable run in the tunnel area with a direct shot to the center storage area, where they located the battery in a large aluminum Moroso battery box with a vent out the bottom. I am using that area for an amp and subwoofer so I moved the battery (an Optima) to the passenger storage area and I am installing new longer cables inside the car. I went with 1/0 cable. I have not chosen a new battery mount yet, but when @Tusc gets around to showing us his mount I may go with that one, or the Afterdark version. My car is down for stereo work, paint job and some maintenance so it's not a huge hurry on the new battery mount.
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 09:58 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
I ended up drilling a new hole just next to the loom you mentioned. I used a grommet and some rtv to seal it.

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures
I note I do not see the ground cable, assume you used the chassis? I am running both home run front to back. Thanks for the reply to my question, time to get the carpet pulled back and get a look in the footwell area.
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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 01:44 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Davcruz
I note I do not see the ground cable, assume you used the chassis? I am running both home run front to back. Thanks for the reply to my question, time to get the carpet pulled back and get a look in the footwell area.
I ran a short cable from the battery to the frame in the back.

Then I bolted the cable already up by the battery (that goes to the engine block) to the frame as well.

This is in the rear.
This is in the rear.
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 09:16 AM
  #66  
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That would certainly simplify the installation and reduce the number of huge cables running through the passenger area, the chassis has been used as the common side of elecrical systems for 100 years, so it makes sense to use it in this application as well. I had not considered it since these cars can be electrical grounding nightmares, but perhaps I should reconsider (although I already have 15' of expensive ground cable, lol).
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Old Dec 3, 2024 | 10:50 AM
  #67  
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Just make sure the connections are clean and make good contact with the frame. You can see I sanded all the paint off before bolting the cable on, then I sprayed black paint over it so it will not corrode.
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