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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 03:00 PM
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If I run new wire and install new speakers, would I no longer need the PAC ROEM-VET1?
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
If I run new wire and install new speakers, would I no longer need the PAC ROEM-VET1?
nope. yank it out.
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 06:19 PM
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Is there some kind of Metra harness adapter though, that can simply be connected to the HU's harness and connect to the factory speaker locations? For the lazy like me who don't want to have to run new wire. I assume there are actually two sets of wires that go to the door.
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
Is there some kind of Metra harness adapter though, that can simply be connected to the HU's harness and connect to the factory speaker locations? For the lazy like me who don't want to have to run new wire. I assume there are actually two sets of wires that go to the door.
metra only makes a physical adapter to mount the speakers. If you want to use the stock wires, you can clip the wires at the door and crimp on standard speaker female tips.


If you want to keep the stock wiring, I believe you need to use the PAC adapter -- I don't recomend it, I believe the DSP is wired in somewhere between the stock head unit and the speakers (they're also garbage wires... like, 16 or smaller gauge-- that's my own thing, likely enough) You're much better off just running the wires.
Seriously, once you have the head unit out, and the door panels off, you're running 5 feet of wires from the back of the radio, behind the dash, and through the existing grommets to the back of the door... it takes literally like 10 minute per door. you're going to spend far, far more time taking the door panels off and mounting the speakers.

Anyway, you can try it , but I think it's really just going to sound like absolute garbage. I forget exactly which wires are which-- presumably since you already have a new head unit wired in, you can just drop in 8" and 2.5" speakers, see how they sound.

others can weigh in.
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Old Apr 22, 2024 | 02:41 PM
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Is there any reason for my use case to not simply use the same model of 6-1/2" speakers in both front and back?
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Old Apr 22, 2024 | 08:32 PM
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I went on crutchfield and asked about just changing the twiddlers out and the speakers in the hatch. I didnt want to mess around with removing all the bose. I ended up getting Kickers and it was reasonable and it really did help. It is much better than just having the Kenwood with the bose speakers.
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Old Apr 22, 2024 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
Is there any reason for my use case to not simply use the same model of 6-1/2" speakers in both front and back?
the "woofers" in the door are powered by a small amp in the door under each speaker- I belive it's 25watt max @ 2omhs (i looked at it for about 5 seconds before tossing them, so I could be wrong about the impedence) . it's fed by a bose DSP. I haven't tried it, so not sure if you can just drop in a replacement speaker, and even if it works, what it would sound like. The DSP is supposedly "tuned" for that specific speaker and the interior of the c5. if you're going to replace the bose 6.5" woofer, you really should just run new wire and bypass the bose dsp. If someone in here has tried just dropping in speakers , maybe they can chime in. I didn't even consider it. If not, try it, if it sounds like ****, return the speakers.

The midrange in the door/rears in the back are powered off the head unit, and don't use the dsp, so you should be able to replace the mid range/rears with no problem.
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Old Apr 23, 2024 | 06:01 AM
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No, no—I meant, if I'm running new wires anyway to bypass the DSP crap, is there any particular reason not to use the same speakers, front and rear?
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
No, no—I meant, if I'm running new wires anyway to bypass the DSP crap, is there any particular reason not to use the same speakers, front and rear?
the same brand speakers?
no --- no reason not to use the same brand front and rear. I only gave you a suggestion based on what I bought. There's a thread.. and I think a sticky .. with the model/type most people get. you can run anything between 6.5"-8" woofers +3.5" mids in the doors, and 6.5" in the rear (if you have a coupe) or 5.25 in the rear if you have a vert.
BTW, if you replace the "subs" in the doors, you'll have to get a metra adapter anyway, which has the cutouts for the 6" + 3.5" , you may as well replace both. The 3.5" (as well as the subs) in the doors are complete 80s-era radioshack garbage.

my honest opinion though, focus on the door speakers, the rears barely contribute to the sound. At best they improve imaging. But not by much-- even with a new head unit, all new amps, all the wiring changed, hardware crossovers and brand new speakers, I still barely hear the rears.

Last edited by JMG2; Apr 24, 2024 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Apr 24, 2024 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JMG2

my honest opinion though, focus on the door speakers, the rears barely contribute to the sound. At best they improve imaging. But not by much-- even with a new head unit, all new amps, all the wiring changed, hardware crossovers and brand new speakers, I still barely hear the rears.


Ditch the rear speakers...you won't miss them (or hear them)
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Old Apr 27, 2024 | 02:21 PM
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Just to close this out, I installed Focal RCX-165s in the rear, and Focal RSE-165s in the doors.
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