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Looking for some suggestions for my C-5. I have an 01 convertible, manual Z51. It's a Lingenfelter so it has about 450 HP, not sure that matters
My clutch is being replaced so I figured it might be time for new shocks.
I'm looking for just a decent ride with some performance capabilities, just some spirited driving down the roads. I've read that the C6 Z06 shocks bolt right up.
My goal is a decent quality shock and I am trying to get best bang for my dollars. I don't want cheap but I don't think my driving justifies dumping a butt ton of money into shocks.
I would also suggest an upgrade to the sway bars if still has the stock from the factory units. Either the C5 Z06 bars 30.0mm front and 23.6mm rear or the C6 Z51 bars 31.0mm front and 25.4mm rear.
I would also suggest an upgrade to the sway bars if still has the stock from the factory units. Either the C5 Z06 bars 30.0mm front and 23.6mm rear or the C6 Z51 bars 31.0mm front and 25.4mm rear.
These look good, thank you. Price is right and I know the brand is good. I have C-5 z-51 sway bars but will check out the C-6 sway bar
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The C6 Z06 shocks and sway bars were a very popular upgrade and still offer a noticeable difference compared to the base units. They are also very affordable.
Bilstein B6’s. Great for your everyday driver or weekend warrior. Installed them myself. Pre pandemic they were about 75 a piece. 2 years ago, I got them from rockauto at about 100 a piece, installed them myself. IMO, Cornering stability you will notice more from the sway bars, I also installed c6Z51 sways. Bilstein B8’s are slightly stiffer and will hurt your butt more.
it was my first time ever installing shocks on my new Quickjack at that time. I also did brakes, rotors, ss brake lines and Hawk HP600 brake fluid, then did an HPDE, everything was fine and it handled well, also running a 305 rear tire, 275 front tire.
I got the RT/Fox shocks from Strano. Enough people (with all different kind of cars) told me "I'm never buying non-adjustable shocks again" for convincing. Very nice parts (certainly LOOK high quality, I guess) and easy to install and adjust. I started at 9 clicks thought it was a bit stiff and went to 11 clicks which is perfect for rough local roads and still very sharp handling. Adjustments already paying off and I can't wait to get the loose rear on corner entry dialed out of my car. I still have the FE1 spring and bar.
Personally I think coilovers that are double adjustable are the way to go.
My Vikings were under $2000 and they are not much harder to install than shocks. Taking the factory leaves off is easy. I’m not sure why people have trouble. If that isn’t the route you want to go at one point I did have c6z shocks that worked pretty good.
the c6 z06 shocks and sway bars were a very popular upgrade and still offer a noticeable difference compared to the base units. They are also very affordable.
Thank you for all of the replies. After looking around and pricing things out, I am going with either the Bilstein B6 or B8.
Their site says B8 for lowered cars. My car is slightly lowered, nothing drastic, just the by the adjustment screws/bolts so I'd guess it's most likely not drastic enough to make the B8 mandatory.
I want the smoother ride so I think B6 is what I want, just wondering if I 'need" the B8s due to the car being slightly lower.
Thank you for all of the replies. After looking around and pricing things out, I am going with either the Bilstein B6 or B8.
Their site says B8 for lowered cars. My car is slightly lowered, nothing drastic, just the by the adjustment screws/bolts so I'd guess it's most likely not drastic enough to make the B8 mandatory.
I want the smoother ride so I think B6 is what I want, just wondering if I 'need" the B8s due to the car being slightly lower.
Is your car just lowered on the stock bolts? B6 should be fine if that's what you want...
The shocks that are on my 99, are stock, although 20 year old, they aren't leaking fluid, seem firm, rebound nicely, 70 thousand miles on the clock... Flat, firm, ride shows me the four continue to perform as Corvette intended....... Nothing indicates to me, the driver, the shock absorbers needed replacing.. I don't drive in competition but do drive long distance border to border yearly. I'm not hijacking the subject but expanding it. When, generally dose one KNOW shocks must be replaced. 😏
I'm not hijacking the subject but expanding it. When, generally dose one KNOW shocks must be replaced. 😏
Shocks control the spring. You'll know when the car keeps bouncing. For all cars and trucks with standard shocks, put both hands and a knee on the bumper, push the vehicle down and step back and watch it rebound and settle. If it's bouncy it's shock time. I'm not sure if F45 and F55 can be tested this way.
Springs set the ride height and if you're sagging it's spring time. 🌼 🌱
I would also suggest an upgrade to the sway bars if still has the stock from the factory units. Either the C5 Z06 bars 30.0mm front and 23.6mm rear or the C6 Z51 bars 31.0mm front and 25.4mm rear.
Thank you for this. I'm going to buy those shocks and install them when I do brakes soon. I'm going to tune the F45 out of my car with my Tech2.
Time for new shocks
