When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently bought a 1998 automatic from an auction which unfortunately came with no owner's manual, no documentation except one small repair from a shop, and now I need to replace the harmonic balancer. To my horror, both front wheels require a key to take off, but it is nowhere to be found. I checked where some have said: the driver's side carpeting by the center console, the glove box, and the left truck compartment where there is indeed a divit, but no key. I checked nearby it and no luck.
What can I do?
Most any tire shop have a tool to easily remove them. U-Tube has videos to do it yourself. Find a tight 12-point socket, hammer it on the lock nut and easily spin it off with a ratchet (or buy an expensive Snap On tool) On my first C5 I had the same challenge. While they changed my tires at a shop I walked to Auto Zone and bought four lug nuts to replace the lock nuts. Those locks are not effective to someone that wants your wheels.
I searched on YouTube (I didn't have time to/consider that before as I was trying to save as much time as I could [ended up wasting a bunch]) and found a tutorial describing exactly that method, as well as these extractor type kits on Amazon:
This is the one I went with. I will follow up after I use it to let everyone know how it went. This whole ordeal has been frustrating for me because I really want to change out that balancer/damper and get that job over with. I've heard it's a pain in the butt and want to be on the road as soon as I can.
Do the wheels need to come off for some reason to get to it? I changed mine recently and while the rack was completely unbolted both front wheels were still on the car.
As stated, find/use a 12-point 3/8" or 1/2" socket that is just slightly smaller than the key-nut (next size down from whichever barely fits over the key, maybe 3/4" or 11/16", 18mm or 19mm), slowly tap it into position on the nut with a small sledge, then give a few solid-heavy whacks to seat it securely on the nut, then wrench it off. I had to do this on all 4 of my Silverado wheels 2 years ago, worked like a charm! There are several YouTubes of this online, good-luck!
Do the wheels need to come off for some reason to get to it? I changed mine recently and while the rack was completely unbolted both front wheels were still on the car.
From the research I've done, yes, they need to come completely off. I don't have a large selection of specialty tools such as a lift, impact drill, etc. so I wanted to follow the book as closely as I could.
As stated, find/use a 12-point 3/8" or 1/2" socket that is just slightly smaller than the key-nut (next size down from whichever barely fits over the key, maybe 3/4" or 11/16", 18mm or 19mm), slowly tap it into position on the nut with a small sledge, then give a few solid-heavy whacks to seat it securely on the nut, then wrench it off. I had to do this on all 4 of my Silverado wheels 2 years ago, worked like a charm! There are several YouTubes of this online, good-luck!
The thing is I don't have a 12 point socket, let alone a disposable one, so I just bought the tool I needed.
From the research I've done, yes, they need to come completely off. I don't have a large selection of specialty tools such as a lift, impact drill, etc. so I wanted to follow the book as closely as I could.
What I am talking about just means instead of unbolting the steering rack and pulling it out through the wheel well to access the crank pulley you instead just unbolt the steering rack and push it out of the way. If the car is on jack stands the wheels can turn freely and it should have a decent amount of movement available to push the steering rack out of the way.
I understand if that process doesn't fill you with the same confidence that the book does but it does let you completely bypass the problem you are stuck at.
What I am talking about just means instead of unbolting the steering rack and pulling it out through the wheel well to access the crank pulley you instead just unbolt the steering rack and push it out of the way. If the car is on jack stands the wheels can turn freely and it should have a decent amount of movement available to push the steering rack out of the way.
I understand if that process doesn't fill you with the same confidence that the book does but it does let you completely bypass the problem you are stuck at.
I did not know this. The tools should be coming today, think I should try to get a headstart anyway on your plan?
I did not know this. The tools should be coming today, think I should try to get a headstart anyway on your plan?
I would bet your original plan can be used just instead of pulling the wheels off and the rack out you wrangle it out of your way. It will just barely clear with some effort and if it does not or you don't feel comfortable wrestling with it at that point you still have the option to go back to getting the wheels off like you originally planned.
What was your process going to be? Were you going to pull the fans and/or radiator out to gain more access?
I would bet your original plan can be used just instead of pulling the wheels off and the rack out you wrangle it out of your way. It will just barely clear with some effort and if it does not or you don't feel comfortable wrestling with it at that point you still have the option to go back to getting the wheels off like you originally planned.
What was your process going to be? Were you going to pull the fans and/or radiator out to gain more access?
My process was a mix of this a couple forums, YouTube videos, (Toys4Life C5) and reading the Haynes repair manual as I go along. I'll figure something out; it will get done, just not as soon as I originally planned. 😅
And yes, I did want to try to take out the radiator if I can, so I have more room to work in there. If it's not necessary for me, I'll just leave it in there.
My process was a mix of this a couple forums, YouTube videos, (Toys4Life C5) and reading the Haynes repair manual as I go along. I'll figure something out; it will get done, just not as soon as I originally planned. 😅
And yes, I did want to try to take out the radiator if I can, so I have more room to work in there. If it's not necessary for me, I'll just leave it in there.
I know what this is like I only pretend to know what I am doing but I have a lot of extremely competent friends around to text about my struggles. I think you'll find once you get the cooling stack out of the way that you can see better what you need to do to accomplish this.
I know what this is like I only pretend to know what I am doing but I have a lot of extremely competent friends around to text about my struggles. I think you'll find once you get the cooling stack out of the way that you can see better what you need to do to accomplish this.
I got everything off for the harmonic balancer replacement, but I can't put things back on. I need to torque the new ARP bolt to 235 LB-FT, but it spins. This is because I do not have the flywheel holder I bought holding the flywheel. And I can't put that on because of the aftermarket exhaust and headers, which have completely rusty bolts. I already snapped one. My other option seems to be from the front with Summit's holding tool SME-906008, but I can't use that either because of the design of the PB1117SS balancer I went with.
(I don't have a welder, so I can't cut and reweld the exhaust)
I see 2 options.
I have a 1998 automatic.
Option 1. Take off the current balancer I have and exchange it with another one and get that SME-906008 tool.
Option 2. Use a harmonic balancer puller in some way that also acts as a holder, but I'm not sure how to do that. Such as Maddox 63740.
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Missing lock nut key
