Ok, it wasn't really on fire(like flames) i mean my Z06 was kickn-***!! BUT a few things happened under all that stress.
1) oil temp got to 298f degrees
2) i found out that my brake discs are warped
3) 'transmission temp high' warning came on for first time

the 'tranmission temp high' warning comes on after about 15-20 minutes of driving. Do all Z06 brake discs warp after many hard braking?

I just want to know if this is all normal?

 

#s 1 and 3 are normal and that's why a cool down lap is always a good thing.

No offense but #2 is your fault, the good news is as you get more seat time and get faster you will be more easy on the brakes. That's why it's a good idea to have pads and rotors just for the track. Go here and read all these threads on the below post.

Autocrossing & Roadracing
NEW TO AUTO-X AND ROADRACING? look in here...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=673766

After reading this thread then post your questions in the roadracing section when you are ready for some high temp brake fluid and brake ducting.

Welcome to the addiction, it's much more fun than burning money but about as fast

 

Short answer is yes, most of that is normal.

I got my oil temps that high in my first DE as well and also received a tranny high temp warning, which comes on at about 270.

As for the rotors, they may feel warped, but are more likely not. Here is a good discussion:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Here are some things you can do to help:

Brakes:
- I use stock rotors (by rules) and replace them about every other track weekend. I use NAPA rotors which are $25 a pop, but many others, including a few forums vendors sell them for cheap.
- I use dedicated track pads, Carbotech XP10 front, XP9 rear. But Carbotech makes pads designed for street/track, the XP8 and Panther Plus. Many weekend DE drivers use the XP8 front and the Panther PLus rear. These pads dust, but the dust won't trash your wheels and comes off easily.
- SS lines (I use the Goodridge lines with AN fittings and have never had ABS fault code issues)
- DRM brake ducts - help keep rotors cool which prolongs life
- Good brake fluid. I now use Wilwood EXP 600 Plus (sold by forum vendor Hardbar).

With this setup, I can run my essentially stock brakes in a 40 minute SCCA T1 race with no noticeable fade.

Whatever pads you get, bed them in per the manufacturers recommendation to evenly warm the pad and get a good layer of pad material on the rotor.

Oil temp:
- Without modding your car and probably voiding your warranty, this is tougher.
- Run a good lubricant (I recommend AMSOIL SAE 5w30 for street/track cars, but I personally use the AMSOIL Series 2000 20w50).
- Keep an eye on oil temp and set a personal limit, then back out of it. My personal limit was 290.
- You can slightly help oil temp by lowering coolant temp: run 75% distilled water, 25% coolant (water transfers heat better than coolant), modify fan setpoints to come on earlier than the 230 or so stock settings (many vendors sell fan controllers).
- If warranty isn't an issue, consider an oil cooler or integral aluminum radiator oil cooler.

Tranny temp:
- Without modding your car and probably voiding your warranty, this is tough as well.
- Run a good lubricant (I recommend AMSOIL ATF and run that in my car).
- If you get a high temp warning, come in and let tranny cool down.
- If warranty isn't an issue, consider an tranny cooler. Several vendors sell kits. I have a GM system on mine and do not get a tranny high temp warning in 40 minute SCCA T1 races in 100 degree ambient temps.
- Diff will get just as hot, but doesn't have a temp warning. I run AMSOIL Series 2000 75w90 in my diff and change the fluid often (like every two track weekends).

Good luck and have fun out there.

 

Maybe faster...

 

What he said. But the FUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

 

thanks guys!!!