Yes, ONE MORE CLB thread! Step inside.
Originally Posted by Z06ufgrad2002
I was talking to the corvette tech at my local dealership about the CLB just last week. As Dan said, he stated the CLB can cause an issue with the motor that is responsible for retracting the pin. And the pin is held in place by a magnetic field. The tech has seen the motors fail due to the CLB and the internal magnetism lost which caused to pin to exit from the motor and cause the wheel to lock up. I have no idea how frequent this may occur. But, from reading here it doesn't appear that it happens very often. But, it was enough to convince me to procrastinate a bit longer and not install the CLB on my car yet.
Don't shoot the messenger. I am only passing along info that I was told by a very reputable corvette tech in my area.

Don't shoot the messenger. I am only passing along info that I was told by a very reputable corvette tech in my area.

Nah.. When we take aim, we'll make sure we hit the messenger, not you! (Now that's what I call "gun control!")
Anyway, it's really very simple; the column lock motor drives a small gear which drives the locking pin for and aft; no "magnet" involved.
There is also a sensing switch that is toggled either on or off, depending on the position of the locking pin. This is how the BCM determines whether or not your column unlocked successfully, or to display the dreaded "wait 10 seconds" message.
So, upon locking, the BCM drives the motor (a D.C. motor of course) in one direction, upon unlocking the BCM applies a reverse voltage, driving the motor in the opposite direction. The BCM looks for an "open" or "closed" circuit condition, depending on if it thinks the sensing switch should be open or closed during the last command. If the logic doesn’t add up, you get a message on the D.I.C., and you’re done.
Folks, don't let anyone B.S. you into thinking the CL is more complicated than it is. It is an extremely simple design, both electrically and mechanically.
One theory I have as to why these fail in the first place is that when most folks get out of their cars, they tend to grab the steering wheel, and the wheel moves until the pin falls into one of the holes. So now you have this condition where there is a (relatively) high amount of friction between the pin and the hole, with the steering rack and tires applying force. So now this poor little CL motor has the job of not only retracting the pin, but it has to overcome all of the friction being applied by the steering gear. That's a lot to ask. Obviously GM should have "beefed up" this component. It was simply under-engineered for the real world.
I'd put several paychecks on this: if folks would make a conscious effort to NOT "load" the steering wheel when they parked (hell, I've noticed if you don't move the steering wheel at all when you shut the car off, the pin doesn't even fall into the hole 90% of the time) that these stock CL's would last 10 times longer than they do. A little extra grease on the pin and holes wouldn't hurt either!
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Sep 9, 2004 at 09:57 AM.
the best thing to do is to remove the pin & not have to worry about it ever again(as in auto's) ,as for 6spds. the(factory) fix is a joke ,as for the clb kit (still uneasy)Id hate to have some electrical problem while Im driving& have it lock,as per what you say, why not cut the pin shorter ,thats seems like a permanent fix w/out any kit or trouble codes ?
Originally Posted by 88sk
the best thing to do is to remove the pin & not have to worry about it ever again(as in auto's) ,as for 6spds. the(factory) fix is a joke ,as for the clb kit (still uneasy)Id hate to have some electrical problem while Im driving& have it lock,as per what you say, why not cut the pin shorter ,thats seems like a permanent fix w/out any kit or trouble codes ?
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Sep 9, 2004 at 09:55 AM.
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Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
unless someone steps forth with "empirical" evidence that CLB's are harmful, you are a lot better off with one than without one. And to clarify, it's physically *impossible* for the stock CL to lock on you once you've installed a CLB. 

I installed the CLB on mine in may 2004..I now have about 8000 miles on the CLB install . . . so much bad press and lack of understanding here . . . dan has, I believe spoken with a lot of credibility . . GM has not
I also had some questions regarding my reprogram. I went to someone I trust and got an answer.
Come down to us we will remove your program, go get the recall done, come back and we will put the program back in, no charge.
He felt there might be warrinty issues, and had technical reasons I did not undestand. But he felt strongly about it to remove and replace his reprogram for free vs me putting in the CLB I already have.
That will be my first step, I may install the clb after or just sell it, it brand new.
Come down to us we will remove your program, go get the recall done, come back and we will put the program back in, no charge.
He felt there might be warrinty issues, and had technical reasons I did not undestand. But he felt strongly about it to remove and replace his reprogram for free vs me putting in the CLB I already have.
That will be my first step, I may install the clb after or just sell it, it brand new.
I did the recall to comply with warranty issues, then installed the CLB. It is now a
Although the many contradictory messages do play on my paranoia. My GM tech also had two versions of information, contradicted himself with a do a harness fix, can't do it, it's not in this campaign, dance, dance, dance, double speak. This is typical bureaucratic dysfunction. My trust is with the forum members and their individual research and knowledge. Screw GM for letting this perception vs. reality legend grow to the extent it has without nipping it in the bud.
Originally Posted by Gonzo
I also had some questions regarding my reprogram. I went to someone I trust and got an answer.
Come down to us we will remove your program, go get the recall done, come back and we will put the program back in, no charge.
He felt there might be warranty issues, and had technical reasons I did not understand. But he felt strongly about it to remove and replace his reprogram for free vs me putting in the CLB I already have.
That will be my first step, I may install the clb after or just sell it, it brand new.
Come down to us we will remove your program, go get the recall done, come back and we will put the program back in, no charge.
He felt there might be warranty issues, and had technical reasons I did not understand. But he felt strongly about it to remove and replace his reprogram for free vs me putting in the CLB I already have.
That will be my first step, I may install the clb after or just sell it, it brand new.
[QUOTE]
One theory I have as to why these fail in the first place is that when most folks get out of their cars, they tend to grab the steering wheel, and the wheel moves until the pin falls into one of the holes. So now you have this condition where there is a (relatively) high amount of friction between the pin and the hole, with the steering rack and tires applying force. So now this poor little CL motor has the job of not only retracting the pin, but it has to overcome all of the friction being applied by the steering gear. That's a lot to ask. Obviously GM should have "beefed up" this component. It was simply under-engineered for the real world. [QUOTE]
I agree with your theory Dan the C5 Man. I make it a point never to grab the wheel. I get in and out the way they actually recommend, especially for people with back problems, by sitting in the seat and bringing your legs in and when getting out rotating your legs out of the car and lifting out. I use the "step" located on the rear of the door frame right below the door latch. It's just enough support to get you in and out.
One theory I have as to why these fail in the first place is that when most folks get out of their cars, they tend to grab the steering wheel, and the wheel moves until the pin falls into one of the holes. So now you have this condition where there is a (relatively) high amount of friction between the pin and the hole, with the steering rack and tires applying force. So now this poor little CL motor has the job of not only retracting the pin, but it has to overcome all of the friction being applied by the steering gear. That's a lot to ask. Obviously GM should have "beefed up" this component. It was simply under-engineered for the real world. [QUOTE]
I agree with your theory Dan the C5 Man. I make it a point never to grab the wheel. I get in and out the way they actually recommend, especially for people with back problems, by sitting in the seat and bringing your legs in and when getting out rotating your legs out of the car and lifting out. I use the "step" located on the rear of the door frame right below the door latch. It's just enough support to get you in and out.
Last edited by ROCKnROLL; Sep 9, 2004 at 09:57 AM.
Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
One theory I have as to why these fail in the first place is that when most folks get out of their cars, they tend to grab the steering wheel, and the wheel moves until the pin falls into one of the holes. So now you have this condition where there is a (relatively) high amount of friction between the pin and the hole, with the steering rack and tires applying force. So now this poor little CL motor has the job of not only retracting the pin, but it has to overcome all of the friction being applied by the steering gear. That's a lot to ask. Obviously GM should have "beefed up" this component. It was simply under-engineered for the real world.
I'd put several paychecks on this: if folks would make a conscious effort to NOT "load" the steering wheel when they parked (hell, I've noticed if you don't move the steering wheel at all when you shut the car off, the pin doesn't even fall into the hole 90% of the time) that these stock CL's would last 10 times longer than they do. A little extra grease on the pin and holes wouldn't hurt either!
I'd put several paychecks on this: if folks would make a conscious effort to NOT "load" the steering wheel when they parked (hell, I've noticed if you don't move the steering wheel at all when you shut the car off, the pin doesn't even fall into the hole 90% of the time) that these stock CL's would last 10 times longer than they do. A little extra grease on the pin and holes wouldn't hurt either!

My C5 is now over three years old, is a daily driver, and has never had any issues. I expect that it will last much longer than anyone expects it to.
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Thanks for the info. So much contradicting material out there it is hard to know fact from fiction. This info certainly makes sense to me.
Originally Posted by Dave68
I've been saying that this is the most likely cause of column lock for some time now. As a matter of fact, I ran a poll in which I asked those who NEVER had any issues with column lock to tell me if they grabbed the wheel upon entering or exiting. Virtually none of those who replied with no issues had evver used the steering wheel as a handle.
My C5 is now over three years old, is a daily driver, and has never had any issues. I expect that it will last much longer than anyone expects it to.
My C5 is now over three years old, is a daily driver, and has never had any issues. I expect that it will last much longer than anyone expects it to.
I also forgot to mention that heat may play a role in causing failures. Back over one year ago, I posted a poll asking those who had CL failures to indicate at what temperature range the problem occured. Almost all occured during very warm temps. It is possible that the friction causing the failures worsened as one or more of the components expanded. Couple this with torquing the wheel against the pin, and you've got guaranteed trouble, IMO.
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I've had my CLB installed for over three years now with no problems. That doesn't guarantee anything but it has been a solid solution to the column lock problem for me.
And Dan is the Man.
column lock
And Dan is the Man.

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