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Ok gang, you all got me pumped up and after reading this thread, I ran out to the garage to hack my factory shifter down. I can't get the stock **** off! It is just threaded on right? It won't budge! Also how do I remove the shifter boot. I was thinking if I removed the boot, I could hold the shifter shaft with vice grips to really put some pressure on turning the ****. I figured I'd try this before buying the Hurst, but the car seems to have other plans!
Ok gang, you all got me pumped up and after reading this thread, I ran out to the garage to hack my factory shifter down. I can't get the stock **** off! It is just threaded on right? It won't budge! Also how do I remove the shifter boot. I was thinking if I removed the boot, I could hold the shifter shaft with vice grips to really put some pressure on turning the ****. I figured I'd try this before buying the Hurst, but the car seems to have other plans!
I believe there is a pin located under the plastic shift pattern you must remove. Check out the Ripper Isnstallation tech tip which should provide alot of the removal stuff that should help.
Ok gang, you all got me pumped up and after reading this thread, I ran out to the garage to hack my factory shifter down. I can't get the stock **** off! It is just threaded on right? It won't budge! Also how do I remove the shifter boot. I was thinking if I removed the boot, I could hold the shifter shaft with vice grips to really put some pressure on turning the ****. I figured I'd try this before buying the Hurst, but the car seems to have other plans!
You need to remove the so-called "demon key" to get off the stock ****. Stick a flat-blade screwdriver underneath each ear of the key, and carefully pry upward. It should pop right out. You will then be able to unscrew the shift ****. As you cut-down the shifter, keep in mind that the demon key uses the slot in the shift lever as a seat, so set your cut length accordingly if you plan to re-use the stock ****.
To remove the boot, simply grasp the side of the boot at the base, and pull in towards the shift lever and lift up slightly while working your way around the shifter. The boot is attached to a piece of springy plastic that just pops down into the console. Pretty simple. The entire operation of cutting my stock shifter took me about 15 minutes.
I did this mod today and it's a piece of cake once you get the key out of the ****. I also reused the factory **** without the key, just screwed it down tiiiight. Nice improvement.
Thanks for the help gang. I hacked down my shifter today. It is much better! I may not even go with an aftermarket shifter now. I can at least keep my elbow planted on the console when shifting instead of using my whole arm like before. I took about 7/8" off of it.
Thanks for the help gang. I hacked down my shifter today. It is much better! I may not even go with an aftermarket shifter now. I can at least keep my elbow planted on the console when shifting instead of using my whole arm like before. I took about 7/8" off of it.
Yeah, I have no plans to go with an aftermarket shifter after I shortened mine. I just want to get another **** to distinguish the shifter a little bit (see my other thread). I agree that one of the best things about this mod is that I no longer bang my elbow on the console all the time. Why the heck did Chevy have to make the stock shifter so dang tall?
[QUOTE=TEXHAWK0]If you have a **** with threads all the way to the bottom, like the round Hurst *****, you can shorten the stock shifter a full inch by threading the stick down to where the diameter increases.
It ends up about the same height as the Hurst shifter, but still has the stock feel, and looks like this
What size are the threads on the stock shifter? What other shift ***** besides the Hurst are threaded all the way to the bottom?
What size are the threads on the stock shifter? What other shift ***** besides the Hurst are threaded all the way to the bottom?
Thanks,
The stock shifter and the Hurst shifter both have the same threads, which are 9/16" - 18 tpi.
QUOTE: "VooDoo ***** are countersunk so they will lower the throw another 3/4" to 1"!"
Not if the **** bottoms out on the larger diameter of the shift lever. The countersink only helps of the shaft is the same diameter as the threads so the **** can slip down over it. The total height of the shifter and **** is determined by how close to the top of the **** the threads are cut and if the **** can go all the way onto the shaft without hitting something.
I know this might sound strange, but I've always grasped the shifter below the **** to shift on all my cars.
The Z is really nice to do this, as the large diameter below the **** gives more to hold on to.
Also, my arm rests on the console when I shift. I find this method makes my shifts very percise.
If I didn't shift like this, I would probably cut mine down as well.
Question: Does it change the noise level of the shifter when you cut it down?
Where the heck can you get a 9/16 18 tpi nut to use as a guide and thread cleaner after the cut down?? I went to Lowes and Home Depot and no luck! The "demon key" came off in 2 seconds and I thought "great, this will be easy!"....then no 9/16 18tpi nut to be found anywhere. HELP!!!!
Got my nut at the Sears Hardware down the street for 70 cents. I have a whole box full of nut and bolts, would you think I could find a 9/16-18? Nothing like a trip to the store for one damn nut! Well worth the time though.