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My local shop has suggested cutting down my stock shifter (making it shorter) as a compromise to shorten the throw without the harshness of an aftermarket shifter. They like the aftermarket stuff better, but I expressed some concern over the stiffness/harshness of the one they had in the shop. Any thoughts. Anyone ever done this and been happy (or regrets)? Thanks.
My local shop has suggested cutting down my stock shifter (making it shorter) as a compromise to shorten the throw without the harshness of an aftermarket shifter. They like the aftermarket stuff better, but I expressed some concern over the stiffness/harshness of the one they had in the shop. Any thoughts. Anyone ever done this and been happy (or regrets)? Thanks.
Easy to do ,many have done it--I went from both Ripper than Hurst back to a modified factory shifter for road track work Easier for me to make downshifts with factory shifter than Aftermarket.
I have seen some sites that had directions to do this, but since I was installing the BPP Shifter, I didn't book mark. Hopefully, one of the other members will have the sites that had directions for doing this. As for your concern about stiffness, you are right. I am going to give my BPP Shifter another 2 weeks and if my shoulder continues to give me pain, the stock one is going back in (had a shoulder injury requiring surgery over 5 years ago). I installed the softest springs, but it is still too stiff. Getting in reverse is a real pain at times too. If I go back to the factory one, I am going to leave it long. I don't race my Vette, so there isn't any real gains I will be getting.
I have seen some sites that had directions to do this, but since I was installing the BPP Shifter, I didn't book mark. Hopefully, one of the other members will have the sites that had directions for doing this. As for your concern about stiffness, you are right. I am going to give my BPP Shifter another 2 weeks and if my shoulder continues to give me pain, the stock one is going back in (had a shoulder injury requiring surgery over 5 years ago). I installed the softest springs, but it is still too stiff. Getting in reverse is a real pain at times too. If I go back to the factory one, I am going to leave it long. I don't race my Vette, so there isn't any real gains I will be getting.
I went from Hurst back to stock as well.
There is a Forum member that takes the stock shifter and cuts it down 2 inches. He said it's the same feel, less sloppy, yet much shorter throw. He charges $50 plus your stock shifter. Sounds like the way to go...
There is a Forum member that takes the stock shifter and cuts it down 2 inches. He said it's the same feel, less sloppy, yet much shorter throw. He charges $50 plus your stock shifter. Sounds like the way to go...
Yup that is what we did. Took out the stock shifter, cut it down 2 inches , put in better poly washers and lubed the heck out of it.
My local shop has suggested cutting down my stock shifter (making it shorter) as a compromise to shorten the throw without the harshness of an aftermarket shifter. They like the aftermarket stuff better, but I expressed some concern over the stiffness/harshness of the one they had in the shop. Any thoughts. Anyone ever done this and been happy (or regrets)? Thanks.
1-remove stock shift ****-run a 9/16 X 18 nut or thread chaser down at least 7/8 of a inch.cut off with saw at top of nut. 2-,as you remove the nut it cleans out the threads.3--reinstall shift **** 4--get out vacum and start cleaning up the metal chips.5--if you remove consule for any reason--lubricate the shifter and shifter rod.
If you have a **** with threads all the way to the bottom, like the round Hurst *****, you can shorten the stock shifter a full inch by threading the stick down to where the diameter increases.
It ends up about the same height as the Hurst shifter, but still has the stock feel, and looks like this
Here is a stock shifter where the rubber bushing has been removed compared to one where the threads have been extended. Any shorter and the **** is almost in the console opening.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Sep 14, 2004 at 07:04 PM.
From: 2007 Nat'l Corvette Challenge 11.50 index Champ. New Jersey
Just remove the ****,put a plastic bag over the stick, cut it down with a hack saw. When done, just pull the bag up from the stick & you're cleaned up!. I did it & it took 5 minutes start to finish & I love it! Price is right too!!
I shortened my stock shifter and really like the feel. I had a Miata before the vette and the shifter feel is about 95% of the Miata. The Miata shifter is one of the most precise shifters out there.
How do you go about getting rid of the tapered black metal around the shaft? I have shorted and rethreaded as much as I could since my MGW **** goes all the way down and hits the tapered area. I want to go lower. Do you just dremel a cut down the side and pry it all apart?
OK, this thread got me all enthused to cut the stock shifter. I went out about 20 minutes ago just to take a look. Removed the stock ****, demon key and boot, found a self-tapping nut to thread down on the shaft, and used that nut as a guide for my hacksaw. 5 minutes later my shifter was a little over 3/4" shorter, and I must say, what a bitchin' little mod! The throws do indeed feel shorter, and now that the stick doesn't extend as far up, my elbow stays more parallel to the center console, which means I no longer have to reposition my arm to shift! In case you couldn't tell, I'm happy as a clam.
And as someone already said, the price is right. Looks like that lusting for an aftermarket shifter is a thing of the past!
I used a different method to reduce height on the stock shifter, in the process I also eliminated the rubber damper that causes the "rubbery feel" that some people reported.
If you look at the stock shifter picture on post #9, there is a big black part that has flared end at one end and threaded end at the other (I call this sleeve). If you make two vertical (axial) cuts 180 degrees from each other from the bottom of the flared part to the point where it starts to taper, you can pull the sleeve off (a little persuasion maybe needed).
With the sleeve removed, all that's left is a short stub with a wide steel collar attached to it. The stub and the collar are connected with rubber, as you guessed it, this is the damper. Remove the collar by making two vertical (axial) cuts 180 degree from each other. Remove the rubber damper.
Next step is optional. If you notice, there is another collar press-fitted to the short stub. You can remove this press-fitted collar by making the same vertical cuts mentioned above.
VOILA! You have a short-throw/short-height shifter that (for me) is just right height. I don't know if the throw is shorter than aftermarket shifters. I use a Momo shift **** so I don't have to tap the short stub, besides I think the stock shifter **** is 6utt fugly.
My local shop has suggested cutting down my stock shifter (making it shorter) as a compromise to shorten the throw without the harshness of an aftermarket shifter. They like the aftermarket stuff better, but I expressed some concern over the stiffness/harshness of the one they had in the shop. Any thoughts. Anyone ever done this and been happy (or regrets)? Thanks.
Do a search for MSGHUFF on the C5 board, he has it done.....
I thought about it...but opted to put the Hurst short shifter in and I am 100% satisfied. Wish I had done it sooner. For around $250 when you take into account the new shifter, shorter boot cover, and a solid or much heavier shifter ****, that was money well spent in my book. I love how it shifts too...plus hurst gives you different springs to adjust the feel...and also adjusts the throw to some degree.