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I've stored 3 different C5's over the past 4 years. Here's what I do:
- fill the gas tank and add a bottle of Sta-bil
- pump the tires up to 40 psi
- change the oil & filter
- wash & wax
- park it on carpet squares
- hook up the battery tender
- add the dry storage bags inside the car
- put the cover on it
I have a pretty tight garage so I don't worry about rodents. I don't drive the car in the Winter here in NY State so it sits from November to April. Come Springtime I take the cover off, let some air out of the tires and drive it out. I've had no problems of any kind with this process.
all good information....but what is this "winter" you speak of??
KonaVette:
I just got back from Kona this morning. Spent a week at the Outrigger Kanoloa at Kona and then a few days at the Hilton Waikoloa. Beautiful area. I had never been to Hawaii before and I had a great time.
It seems like Saddle Road between the volcanos and Hilo would be a great road to take the Vette on. Between the Kona side and the volcanos the road would be too damn rough. Ever driven it in your Vette? I was longing for mine while driving the POS Jeep Wrangler. I had to go out for a drive today to remove the memory from my system .
Is it really necessary to fill up with gas before storing. Wouldn't it be better to drive it almost empty and start the new season with a fresh tank? Is there really a condensation issue and couldn't you use some dry gas?
First, I don't know if this applies to C5s because I don't know if the tanks are steel, but the original thinking for the full tank of gas is indeed condensation. If you consider a half full tank of gas, ever time there is a temperature variation in which the gas tank is lower than the dew point, there is a possibility of atmospheric H20 condensing on the upper part of the tank. After a number of months, there could be considerable water in the tank. The water drops to the bottom and begins to form rust, which gets picked up by the fuel pump and starts messing with your fuel system. I've seen a number of gastanks that have rust through. All, I think, rusted from the inside out. I've seen gas drained from these tanks. In the worst, it looked like mud.
Wait!!! The floor unit charger with the 2amp setting is not a battery tender. If I understand what your saying this is only a trickle charger and will continue to trickle charge until shut off. Battery Tenders have internal brains that charge to full capacity and then shut off until voltage drops again where they charge again. These are small units that usually come with clips that you can use or wires for direct connection to the battery and can be connected and disconnected via a clip. If you use your 2 amp trickle charger you will burn the battery up in a few days since they are only designed for slow full charges over about 24 hours.
Believe it or not, I'll be driving my C5 in the winter! I have stored cars in the past, but this time around I'm not going to bother. It's just too much of a hassle finding a beater car, plus I haven't got room to park another vehicle at my townhouse anyhow. We only get a few bad snow days per year in Toronto, and those days I'll leave the Corvette at home. The rest of the time I'll enjoy driving it. Salt doesn't bother me, I'll just visit my good friends who own a detail shop more often during the winter.
I drive mine in the winter but only when its dry. Does your car seem to take forever to warm up when its below 32 F?
I drive mine in the winter but only when its dry. Does your car seem to take forever to warm up when its below 32 F?
I've only had my car since August, so I haven't driven it in sub 32 weather yet. The coldest morning so far was 39, and it did seem to take an extra couple of minutes for the coolant to hit 190F, and it took even longer for the oil to get to it's normal temp. But lucky for me I drive long enough to fully warm up the engine, since my drive to work is 25 miles. I wouldn't want to drive it on short trips in the winter, as that would not be good for the engine. You need to make sure you get the oil over 180F for at least 10-15min worth of driving every time you start your car.
The coldest morning so far was 39, and it did seem to take an extra couple of minutes for the coolant to hit 190F, and it took even longer for the oil to get to it's normal temp.
Ok, you guys are straying dangerously close to C6Gen levels of "No Sheit Award for the Day" here.
One thing that would bother me about storing a car without even cranking it for several months, is that some of the valvesprings are compressed the entire time. Now this may be a non-issue, I really don't know since I have never stored a car, but if I were to store one I would do some research on this. It just seems that sometime in the past I heard that not turning an engine over periodically could weaken the compressed springs. Maybe someone can chime in with some info on this.
You are correct about the valve springs being compressed, it is not good for the longevity of the springs. I have only had my 04 vert since June 21st, so I will also be storing for the first time this year. I will bump the engine over lightly to move the spring position and the piston ring locations. I have a 1970 Chevelle SS with a 498 cu-in 14.5:1 compression motor and I actually release all of my valve springs each winter. My engine builder has specifically told me to bump the engine to avoid the rings sitting in one spot from Nov to May. He said it is very bad for the motor? I am not an engine builder so I can explain why, I just follow his instructions and my motor runs like a champ.
Tino: Explain what you mean when you say you will bump the engine over lightly? Does that mean turn it on and off quickly or let it run a bit? Thanks. Dan
Dan,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. With my Chevelle, I am able to click the motor over without getting to the point where the engine actually starts. By doing this, it will move the piston and valve spring locations without actually starting the motor. I have not tried this with my Vette but am hoping that it will do the same for a split second without starting it.
Dan,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. With my Chevelle, I am able to click the motor over without getting to the point where the engine actually starts. By doing this, it will move the piston and valve spring locations without actually starting the motor. I have not tried this with my Vette but am hoping that it will do the same for a split second without starting it.
Tino
I just went out to the garage and tried the bump thing. If you turn the key momentarily, it will not start. It seemed like there was a jerking motion to the engine though that didn't seem good.