Hey,

I just got a used top today off a 2001 coupe. The top is in really good shape as well as all the weatherstriping. When i put the top on, it is really tight in the front and when i lock it in it seems to fit well.

Heres the problem, when i go to shut the door with the window rolled up, the top of the window hits that black plastic "clip" on the side of the targa top that pushes the window against the weatherstriping.

Has anybody incountered this problem, or know how to fix it. Is there any way to adjust the hight of those black clips on the side of the top.

By the way, the top is from a 2001 and my car is a 2004. I know they are both C5's but just thought i would let you know.

Thanks,
Mike

 

There are some pages out there with adjustment instructions but I can't remember the link. Try searching on here for "wind noise" or maybe "water leak" or "blow-out clip" and you may find something. That's the blow-out clip you are referring to.

 

You will have to adjust the tilt of the windows. This should help you
The service manual says that wind noise under 65mph could be caused by a gap where the coupe lock pillar weatherstrip overlaps the roof weatherstrip. It recommends that you grasp the middle of the side of the coupe lock pillar weatherstrip with one hand & with the other hand slide the weatherstrip upwards in the retainer so it tightly contacts the roof weatherstrip.
The second possible cause could be that there isn't enough pressure between the window & the lock pillar weatherstrip. You can adjust the door window tip in so that the window is flush to 2mm inboard of the lock pillar weatherstrip retainer. If you want to do the tip in you'll need a #6 inverted Torx socket. The procedure is found on pg 8-1134 of the service manual in Volume III.
I'll sketch it out just in case you don't have a manual.
1 Position the window fully up.
2 Remove the large access plug from under the front of the door.
3 Loosen the window regulator front channel mounting nut.
4 Remove the reflector from the trim panel.
5 Loosen the jack screw jam nut.
6 Adjust tip in with the jack screw.
- Turn the jack screw clockwise to tip the window outward.
- Turn the jack screw counterclockwise to tip the window inward.
- One turn of the screw equals approximately 1 N-m(0.04") change at the top of the window.
7 Tighten the jack screw jam nut.
8 Lower the window.
9 Tighten the window regulator channel front mounting nut.
10 Raise the window & check the alignment.
11 Install the access plug under the front of the door.
12 Install the reflector in the door trim panel.
The third cause of wind noise could also be a gap where the roof panel side weatherstrip & the roof panel weatherstrip retainer meet at the front or the rear corner of the roof. The air/ind noise sounds like it is coming from an upper corner of a door window. The manual suggests:
1 Remove the roof panel.
2 Remove the screw from the end of the weatherstrip.
3 Partially remove the weatherstrip by carefully peeling the end of the weatherstrip from the top assembly.
4 Apply a bead of urethane based windshield resealant 6mm (0.02") in height.
- Across the end of the weatherstrip retainer.
- From the end of the weatherstrip retainer 20mm (0.8") along the upper edge of the retainer.
- From the end of the weatherstrip retainer 20mm (0.8") along the roof panel at the junction where the roof frame is bonded to the roof panel.
5 Install the weatherstrip & the attaching screw.
6 Clean up any excess sealer with solvent & a clean rag
Important: When installing the roof panel make sure the front edge of the rear roof bow weatherstrip does not roll rearward & block the drain trough down the middle of the weatherstrip.
7 Install the roof panel.

If you have the manual you can find the text & pics at 8-799 - 8-803
If you have the dealership do any work make sure that they don't break the tabs off your door reflectors. 
I'd tend to think that the window tip in would help to solve the problem. I had the same problem at speeds over 120mph.

[

 

Thanks Jo and Razor..just one thing, the top i am having a problem with is a used top. The transparent top that came with the car fits perfectly so ill try to adjust those blow-out clips first.

Thanks again,
Mike

 

The weatherstripping on the two sides of the top is held onto the top’s frame by a grooved channel in the metal weatherstrips backing. The metal backing is held onto the frame with four small Phillips head screws. The four screw holes in the metal backing plate are elongated and there is room for adjustment up and down of the weatherstripping by moving its metal backing up or down. These holes allow for about 1/8 of an inch of adjustment. Don’t try to remove the front or the rear ends of the rubber weatherstripping from the frame, as you’ll see that the two ends are glued and screwed onto the frame and you’ll destroy the weatherstripping if you try and pull it completely off of the frame. You can gently pull the center portion of the weatherstripping from the metal backing channel and slowly work your way outward from the enter toward the ends without dislodging the front and rear ends of the rubber weatherstripping. Gently pull the rubber stripping out of its metal channel just far enough to gain access to the four tiny flat head Phillips screws underneath the rubber weatherstrip. Again, do not pull the front or rear of the weatherstrip from the frame, as it is glued and also is screwed onto the frame. Once you gain access under the weatherstrip, you should be able to loosen the four tiny screws in the metal backing and gently move the metal backing upward enough to clear the window glass when the door is closed. Moving this metal backing upward may take some time and a little effort, as the backing is aso attached to the frame with two sided tape in addition to the four Phillips screws. Once the metal backing is moved slightly upward, and the four screws are replaced, feed the rubber weather stripping back into its channel without damaging it.

 

Thanks Merlin....i will try that along with the other ideas this weekend

 

Razor2430, that little dude in your sig is friggin' hilarious!

 

[QUOTE=BeastieBoys21]Thanks Merlin....i will try that along with the other ideas this weekend [/QUOTE


Beastie...where'd ya finally hook up for the top?

...George]

 

The window tip in adjustment should do the trick. If you are one of those people that it helps to "see it". You can check out the instructions here:

http://www.***-internet.com/johndenn...to/how_to.html

Just select the window tip in adjustment from the menu. If it turns out you need the blow-out clip adjustment there's one there for that too.

Paul

 

George,

I bought it from a CF member, im not sure of his screen name, but his name is Tommy and he's from NY. A very nice guy, i drove to his house and picked it up on Sun. I was nice to ba able to go and see the top and how it fit before buying it. Thanks again Tommy

and thanks talon for the link

 

If you clear top works OK, don't adjust the windows. Work with the new top to get it to fit the same as you old one.

 

I'd be careful adjusting the tip-in on the windows. Sounds to me as though you need to move the clip on the top rather than adjust the windows. If they fit correctly on your original top, that's the way they need to stay. Fix the top instead.

 

I will adjust the blow-out clips first, and hopefully will not have to tinker with the window tip-in

 

You may be in luck, I just went through the whole same situation. My glass top was fine, hard top was REAL tight in the front. Also, when you get it on, go behine the car and take a look at the top from the rear to make sure it is sitting right. The deal is, they are not all adjusted equally! Anyway, if it is tight in the front, when you are latching it you are actually flexing it into place, thus the reason i said to check it from the rear when on. You can actually see if partially flexed. For the front latches, it you look on the bottom side of the roof, you will notice that there is a dowel pin on each latch that mates to the frame of the car at the windshield. You will need a T-30 socket to get the front latches loose. The little rubber things in the latch handles actually pop out which will reveal a hole to let you get to the other of the two screws holding the latch on. Do that with the roof off the car. When you can move them by hand with a little force, you are ok. Once you have them loose, put the top on and move the latches around with a effort until they fall into place. Tighten them up as this will be there proper place. For the rear latch, don't do like me and try to loosen the J hook without taking out the set screw. It will break and cause you much misery in trying to find another one. In fact, you will likely find that you don't even need to bother with the j hook. If the top still does not sit right in the rear, you can adjust the holes that the retaining pins go into. This adjustment you make on the car itself, not the roof panel. I thought when I did this that it would throw off my glass top but it didn't! It still fits fine. In my case, only one of the rears needed adjusted. You will likely need a door panel removal tool or similar to pop off the retaining clips that hold on the trim piece above and behind the seats. You just need to pop the ones on the side to be able to move it out of the way to get to the two 10mm socket heads that hold the retaining pins that are on the top in a stationary position. The way I did it was to loosen the two bolts up, put the roof panel on and lock it down, used my hand to put the panel in the proper position and then tighten the two 10mm headed bolts back up. Worked fine and all is well. Hope this is clear enough. If not, take a look at the front latches and the rear where those pin looking things fit into the body and you will see what I am talking about. I didn't have to make ANY window adjustments and all is well.