And you're absolutely correct.

The problem is, "ram air" only works above about 150 mph (ask anyone who owns a Mooney 201), and "forced induction" a/k/a/ "supercharging" even works when you're standing still.

So, whenever you drive above 150 mph, the "Vararam" will have a distinct advantage.

Otherwise, get the filter technology of the Donaldson Blackwing, the filter preferred by more Bradley Fighting Vehicles in Desert Storms I & II than other brand.

Cheers! Out.

 

That's all very well and good.

I'm up at five, what the heck are you doing up at four?

Going to hit the polls early? Vote early, vote often.

At least yours will make a difference. Here in New York, mine's going down the tubes with Hillary and Schumer.

Nevertheless, I will exercise my civic duty nonetheless. So off we go, in the C5. Line up at 5:55 a.m. No need for a Vararam this morning, the Blackwing will do just fine (see how I weaved the topic back into the thread?).

 

Hey EHS not sure what I am doing up this early but I think the vararam will outperform the blackwing looking at the design of the two. But I am just guessing because I have never used the blackwing. It is hard to install the vararam but I think it looks real cool, sparks great conversation at the strip, is super easy to clean the air filter, and in general it is a one time thing as far as the install goes and then you have what is probably the best "true" cold air intake on the market. Many of the advertised cold air intakes just get the air from under the hood not from outside the engine bay like the vararam. I am curious how where does the blackwing draw its air from? I know there is another aftermarket cold air intake that is mounted below the radiator with a scoop that draws air from below the engine bay but one member recently posted he hydrolocked his engine, big bucks and the dealer probably will deny warranty work on this deal. This is also a risk for the vararam, I would not drive my vararam moded vet if there is very heavy rain and/or standing water. Although I do not have them yet I would also recommend Z06 screens for the vararam and the K&N filter. I have found straw stuck on the outside of my vararam filter before and it is so flimsy I am worried it might punch through some day.

 

Hey thats great you are headed out to vote. Going to be close here in Ohio, I guess just like the vararam/blackwing debate. Ha Ha I did it too. I only sleep about 4 hours so if I go to bed early I sentence myself to an early wake up call unfortunately.

 

I hear ya about the moony and the ram air effect. I have heard that before, it it does make sense since you would need a certain velocity to actually compress the air. But what do you think about the idea of have a positive air pressure build up as opposed to the engine having to suck the air. I know this is what vararam talks about and it makes some sense to me. Because of the ram air design there is a positive high air pressure on the outside of the air filter so that when the throttle body opens whoooshhh in runs the air. I am not sure if I buy this I think in general the reason the vararam works so well (and it does) is because it gets its air from outside the engine bay. Anyway interested to get some opinions on this.

 

Oh God, so much has been posted on this stuff over the last few years. Here are two that I saved, one definitely by me, the other it was so long ago, it could have been me but I no longer remember:

"Don't pour it on -- just a light spray mist. I was told K&N(tm) oil is a different formulation because it's meant for fabric, not plastic, filter media. Shouldn't be used.

Also, when washing the filter, please be gentle. Light water pressure from the inside after soaping, then let air dry or gently blow dry. You don't want to blow holes in the media.

Depending on how dirty your driving conditions, e.g., whether you've cut the shroud, you can go +30,000 miles without re-oiling. The advantage to the Blackwing/LS6 is the turkey popper indicator -- it will tell you when to clean it.

I'm willing to give up a little performance for keeping dirt and water off the filter, so no cutting shrouds -- and I added a cover:
I custom made the cover from a piece of sheet aluminium. Ever open the hood when it's wet? Sheets of water down to the filter. Between the hood seal weatherstripping and the shield, the filter stays dry and clean.
And, it's no more "restrictive" than closing the hood. The stock airbox is more restrictive, like a vacuum hose pressed against the carpet. Take it away and the vacuum works better. But to a point.
I'm not a big fan of cutting the shroud, because there are plenty of areas where air can get to the filter. Like a vacuum cleaner, the engine won't suck more air because it's in a bigger room (or outside for that matter). The MAF flows about 650 cfm per minute, and that's all the access you need. Also, sticking the Halltech TRIC snorkel down to the ground because of a "ram" effect is like running down the hallway with your vacuum cleaner's hose held out in front of you. It will not suck any more air that way either.

The only way to get more air into a vacuum cleaner (like into an engine -- sheees -- there's that analogy again), is to lock your lips around the hose and blow hard -- on a car that's called turbo or supercharging.

With regard to the temperature argument, a 10 degree differential is worth about 1% in horsepower. That's the temperature of the air that the engine is sucking, not what it feels like when you touch the exhaust manifold. Realistically, when you're moving, the difference in air temperature in the compartment where the stock filter resides vs. outside ambient air is about 0-10 degrees. That equates to a gain of about 2 hp at 30 mph, and 1 hp at 60 mph. Big deal.

Finally, regarding the infamous "hydrolock." The "I was sucking Coke with a straw the other day" analogy is a very good one. You can put the straw into the Coke and leave just a little air hole at the bottom and you will not be able to draw up any soda. Until someone moves the glass and things start sloshing. Then you will intermittently suck up Coke. Just like the car will suck up water when the sloshing gets to the right spot. You can put your Halltech TRIC into a Jacuzzi, as long as a part of its opening isn't covered. It will not suck up any water. Turn on the churning, and you'll suck water (probably intermittently until you kill the engine). Driving on the road in the rain is a dynamic event, not like carefully putting the shop vac hose slowly into the bathtub (believe it or not that's R&D for some manufacturers). With whipping rain and puddles churned by tires and airdams, you risk getting some water into the engine, Halltech, Vortex, Donaldson, or stock.
For all those reasons, I decided not to cut the shroud. Don't cut it, leave it open, protect it, and enjoy the extra horsepower."

Yeah, that sounds like my post. This one I don't think is, but still worthwhile:

"This really is exhausting. This was written by a CorvetteForum guy with a great handle on "Ram Air" It's long, and been said before-but one more time for the nose bleed seats

RAM AIR:

Air intakes can be seperated into specific catagories:
- Those that take in warm engine bay air
- Those that are exposed to cooler/fresher air from the front.

The biggest bennefit of adding an aftermarket air intake is unshrouding the factory air box. The last bennefit is exposing it to fresh air. Ram Air is a myth, and many intake manufactures use the word Ram Air strictly for propaganda. They also try to show track results compared to other intakes that simply incur too many variables to make a meaningful and empirical determination. 60 foot times, atmospheric changes, shifting, etc, etc. So do not believe anything you hear regarding such claims regarding air intakes.

Lets take a look at the "Ram Air" Myth in automobiles:
The Ram Air Myth by Dave Rodabaugh:
The Ram Air Myth is the most mythical of them all. It differs from the other myths, in that the other myths are misinterpretations of physical phenomena, whereas ram air simply does not exist. MYTH: Use of a scoop on the front of the vehicle to collect intake air, or provide “ram air” can raise engine performance.
TRUTH: At automobile velocities, there is no ram air effect.
SIMPLE EXPLANATION
The "Truth" statement says it all. How much simpler can it be? The Ram Air effect is a total myth because it simply does not exist. “But Pontiac uses it on the Trans Am, and they know more than you do.” To those who offer this, tsk tsk. Careful reading of Pontiac’s statements on the matter reveal that the HP increase of the WS6 package are a result of a less restrictive intake, and a freer-flowing exhaust, NOT any ram air effect.
So why does Pontiac use Ram Air? Easy! To make people buy their cars! And they are quite effective with this strategy.
DEEPER EXPLANATION
Of all of the applied sciences, fluid mechanics is among the most difficult for many people to comprehend. It is a relatively youthful applied science as well, meaning that it has not had two or three centuries of work to mature into an applied science on par, with say, chemical combustion. To make matters worse, it is mathematically defined almost entirely by experimentally-determined mathematics.
This last point is the true differentiator between those who only understand concepts, and those who can quantify what they are discussing. Truly, quantification is the real skill of the engineer. It is one thing to speak about qualitative issues (the “what” of the physical sciences); it is entirely another to quantify them (the “how much” and “to what extent” of the same). In grade school, students are first taught about “closed form mathematics” and then that these mathematics are typical of scientific expression. A good example of this is Newton’s famed “law of action and reaction”, the mathematical expression of which is a succinct F=MA. So straightforward. So simple. Three variables in perfectly-defined harmony. Given any two of them, the third is easy to nail down.
Unfortunately, a vast, vast majority of the mathematics used in engineering are NOT closed form. Instead, they are multi-variable correlations valid only for a narrow set of circumstances. Deviate from those narrow circumstances, and a new expression must be experimentally derived. Fluid mechanics is almost entirely defined by these experimentally-determined expressions, further muddying an applied science not well understood.
And if there ever were an applied science for which common sense is wholly inappropriate, it is fluid mechanics. Virtually nothing obeys the “common sense” rules of observation, explaining why those who believe in ram air have extreme difficulty in believing that is simply does not exist.
The Deeper Explanation begins with a basic explanation of engine principles. Air and fuel must be combusted at a specific ratio, namely, 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel (this is a chemical ratio). Stuffing more fuel into the cylinders without increasing the amount of air they also swallow will get no gain whatsoever. So the hot rodder’s adage “more air = more power” is proven correct. Figure out a way to stuff more air into the cylinder at any given RPM and throttle setting, and you can burn more fuel. Since burning fuel is what makes power, more air truly does create more power.
The amount of air which is inducted into a cylinder is a function of the air’s density. As the air flows through the intake tract, it loses pressure, and as the pressure decreases, so does the air’s density. (Denisty is mass divided by volume. Since cylinders are a fixed volume, increasing the density will also increase the mass of the air in the cylinder.) There are two ways to increase the pressure and density of the air inducted into the cylinders:
- Decrease the pressure drop from the throttle plate to the cylinders
- Increase the starting pressure at the throttle plate.
Ram air is an attempt to do the second. Under normal circumstances, the air at the throttle plate is at atmospheric pressure, and this pressure drops until the air reaches the cylinders. Ram air would start the process at some pressure higher than atmospheric, and even though the drop is the same, the cylinder pressure is higher because of the increase at the start.
Just how would this increase in pressure at the throttle plate occur? The oft-wrong “common sense” says, “If a scoop is placed in the airstream flowing around the vehicle, the velocity of the air ‘rams’ the air into the scoop, thus increasing the pressure.”
Why is this incorrect? There are two types of pressure: static and dynamic. Placing of one’s hand in front of a fan, or out of a moving car’s window, clearly exerts a force on the hand as the air diverts its path to flow around it. Most people would say “See? This is a clear indication that ram air works. Clearly there is pressure from the velocity of the air.” Well, this is correct, but only to a point. This is an example of dynamic pressure, or the force any moving fluid exerts upon obstacles in its path as the gas is diverted around the obstacle.
What an engine needs is static pressure. This is the pressure the same fluid exerts on any vessel containing it at rest. For those who were physics/chemistry geeks, it is the pressure caused by the force of the molecules bouncing off of the walls of the container. The key to understanding the difference between static and dynamic pressure lies in the velocity of the gas. Dynamic pressure is only a momentum effect due to the bulk motion of the fluid around an obstacle. Static pressure is an intrinsic property of a gas or fluid just because the molecules of the fluid are moving around. Any fluid which is moving can have BOTH dynamic and static pressure, but a fluid at rest only has static pressure.
The point of ram air would be to increase the static pressure, which would correspond to an increase in the in-cylinder air density, and of course, more air. Superchargers and turbochargers do what the mythical ram air purports to do. A supercharger trades the power of the belt and uses it to compress the air in the intake tract. This energy trade-off results in an increase in intake air pressure, more air in the cylinders, more fuel burned, and more power. A turbocharger trades the power of the hot gases and uses it to compress the air in the intake. The overall effect is the same – an increase in intake static pressure.
For ram air to work, it would have to trade the energy of the air’s velocity (as the vehicle moves through the air) for an increase in static pressure (since static pressure is a part of a gas’s internal energy, we see this is TRULY a trade in kinetic energy for an increase in internal energy). Now for the true reasons why ram air is a myth:
- The way for air velocity to be traded for an increase in static pressure is to actually SLOW IT DOWN in a nozzle of some sort. This is easily the MOST counterintuitive part of fluid mechanics for most people. The “common sense” mind says “In order to increase the pressure of the intake, the velocity of the air needs to be increased, just as increasing the speed of a fan exerts more force upon the hand.” Not only does this confuse dynamic with static pressure, but is also misses the point, which is to trade the kinetic energy of the gas for an increase in internal energy. How can this trade occur if the kinetic energy of the gas is increased? It cannot, and in fact, the only way to trade it is to use the velocity of the gas to compress itself – by slowing it down.
- Below about Mach 0.5 (or about half the speed of sound), air is considered “incompressible”. That is, even if the correct nozzle is selected, and the air is slowed down (the official term is “stagnated”) there will be zero trade. No kinetic energy will be traded in as work capable of compressing the air. The reasons for this are not discussed here; the reader may consult any reputable fluid mechanics textbook for confirmation of this fact. In plain English, a car is just too slow for ram air to work.
Still not enough evidence? Here is a little test. For ram air to work, the nozzle must be of a specific shape. The “Holley Scoop” for the Fiero is the wrong shape, by the way. The fact that it has no net shape at all immediately means it cannot effect any kind of energy trade off, so it cannot possibly create ram air. This is also true for the hood scoops on the Pontiac Firebird WS6 package as well, by the way.
What shape must it be? There are two kinds of nozzles. Pick one:
- Converging. This nozzle gets smaller as the air flows through it. It has a smaller exit than entrance. If the nozzle were a cone, the fat end is where the air would enter, and the narrow end is where it would exit.
- Diverging. This nozzle is opposite the other; it gets bigger as the air flows through it. With a larger exit than entrance, the narrow end of the cone is where the air would enter, and the fat end is where it would exit.
So, which is it?
Without hesitation, most of the “common sense” crowd will answer “Converging.” BZZZZT! Thank you for playing anyway! We have some lovely parting gifts for you! Bill, tell ‘em what they’ve won….
The answer is “divergent”. Yes, the nozzle would have to shaped so that the skinny end is pointed into the air stream, and the fat end connects to the throttle plate. How can this be right? Remember, to increase the static pressure of the intake air (which is the true “ram air” effect), the kinetic energy of the air must be traded to compress the air. This is done by slowing the air down, or stagnating it, and the only way to do this is with a diverging nozzle. Ah, but since air is incompressible at automobile speeds, it doesn’t matter any way.
Conclusion
Ram air is a myth because it does not exist, for the following reasons:
- Air is incompressible at any automobile speed., meaning that the kinetic energy of the air cannot be used to compress the air and raise the static pressure.
- The “ram air” nozzles commonly employed on automobiles tend to be the wrong shape. A divergent nozzle is required for ram air. Straight-profile scoops cannot provide a ram air effect.
Select one of the two types of intakes, warm air, or cold air. Beyond that its just about looks.
As a vortex "rammer" owner, I love it the products bang for buck. This is not to single out any one product, as all that use the word "ram" are misrepresenting it."

Anyway, there you have it. 4.5 years of CorvetteForum in 3 minutes.

Cheers! Off to vote.

 

Hey EHS you found someone more long winded than me. Man that guy that posted the ram air effect explanation sounds like some of my air force instructors that put me to sleep as a youngster. Good info did not read the whole thing but I will after I finish nailing my ba$#s to my computer chair. Thanks for the info

 

I have to admit I am not smart enough to argue with the ram air effect guy. I would feel like I brought a knife to a gun fight on that one. But the difference in the air temp under the hood and outside the hood, I am willing to tackle that one. You may be right that 0-10 could be the difference sometimes, but I would think that the air under that hood gets pretty hot, and where the vararam is sucking air is simply the outside air temperature. I would think unless I am just misunderstanding this temp thing that the difference could easily be 50 to 100 degrees difference between the temp under your hood and the temp outside the hood or the outside air temp.

 

The Vararam will give you some extra performance over the Blackwing, especially at speed. I have the Blackwing and like it, but have not tried the Vararam. You should be able to get the Blackwing for much less - I paid $195 when I bought mine several years ago. Check around with the forum vendors for the best price. The installed price for the Vararam is very good, considering what you have to go through to get it installed.

 

The vararam will out perform the Blackwing. But the Vararam is a CAI system, you run a greater risk of hydro lock with any CAI system.

 

EHS,
Very interesting but let me throw something at you. Let me preface something first...

By no means am I an expert but I did graduate in engr'ing. and physics was my major. The theory may be correct but as it was stated, the pressure forced into a container (dynamic) will become static for an ever slight amount as it enters the throttle body, wouldn't you agree. At some point, it should be "fed" into the throttle body and at initial entry, the effect of the air hitting the throttle body would be static because the air rushing in momentarily hits a wall (throttle plate) and forces it to be static pressure. (again, for a split second as it feeds into the plate) Minimal but nonetheless, the theory seems correct.

I mention this because we have dyno'd the Kawasaki ZX12 with it's "ram air" intake scoop beneath the headlights. (damn thing looks like a vacuum cleaner)

Point is, while it is on the dyno with no air being forced into it, we will arrive at whatever HP it produces. Now, place a big forceful fan in front of the bike as you do the dyno run and you see a consistent increase in HP numbers.

Personally, I think the ram air intake thing (on the cars with these filters, not talking about the bikes.) works much the same as saying a waxed car gets better gas mileage. Yes, it probably does but perhaps not a noticeable amount??? I dunno. I couldn't tell a difference when installing my B2 but then again, I never took it to the track or dyno, surely someone can verify an increase of HP or track times.


Mark

 

Blackwing or Varaam

Geez guys thanks for the physics lesson! I hope there is no test!

Obviously we all have different opinions to which is more effecient! I will put stock in Varaam! I understand about the Hydrolock, but never seen a case resulting from the Varaam anyway! As a matter of fact there are people in this forum that will testify they have driven in all kinds of rain with no problem at all! Besides in two or three months from now there will be another big thing to debate about!

 

The Vararam is worth spending the few more bucks on.

 

Thanks everyone for takeing the time to reply.

 

I am considering the Vararam system. Is the filter it comes with cleanable? Is it like an oiled K&N style?

 

#33-2522 This is supposed to be the K&N filter that will fit a vararam. I have not purchased it yet but another forum member told me it fit his fine. The filter I got with the vr1b was the hp+ it seems a little flimsy to me so I plan to replace it with a k&n. Although I have heard they have improved the filter so not too sure what it is like now. I know the filter I got with it is supposed to be cleaned and oiled. Be careful I have heard that over oiling is a problem and can foul the wires in your MAS.

 

Hi,
I am thinking of getting the Vararam system. Just wondering what you had to take apart to do the install. It looks real tight on the left side.

 

There is an install page somewhere, either here on the forum somewhere posted in a thread or on vararams sight. Sorry I can not remember where it is but I know I have seen it. Stock air box, fog lights, the covers in the fog light area, the shroud over the radiator, and some other things. It is not technically difficult but for me anyway it was tedious and took a long time 5 to 6 hours if I remember it has been about a year since I did it with the help of my cousin. I think guys who are mechanically inclined have a pretty easy time with it. I would have to rate it at my outer envelope as far as a bolt on is concerned any more difficult and I would have to have it done by a mechanic.

 

Just had the vararam installed and you can tell the difference from the stock set-up. Well worth the $$$$$

 

Vararam Installation Instructions