Jacking -question
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,118
Likes: 122
From: Madison (Huntsville) Alabama
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Jacking -question
I know this has been covered numerous times, but I suppose I just want input for confidence. 
I'm planning on insulating the wheel wells this weekend, and am gonna start with the rear.
I've seen jacking instructions where you jack the center of the cross member between the rear wheels, which raises the entire rear end, and then support it with jack stands on either side. This just seems sorta precarious to me ... basically, you're balancing the car side-to-side on the jack until you can reach in and place the jack stands. It just seems that it might tip over.
I really have no need to get under the car ... all I want to do is get it high enough to remove one wheel at a time.
So the question is ... could I not just jack in front of and inboard of the rear wheel at that jack point? If I do this, do I need a jacking puck, or would a square of 2x6 wood be sufficient to protect the frame?
And the same questions will apply for the front when I get to that point.
Thanks.
I'm planning on insulating the wheel wells this weekend, and am gonna start with the rear.I've seen jacking instructions where you jack the center of the cross member between the rear wheels, which raises the entire rear end, and then support it with jack stands on either side. This just seems sorta precarious to me ... basically, you're balancing the car side-to-side on the jack until you can reach in and place the jack stands. It just seems that it might tip over.
I really have no need to get under the car ... all I want to do is get it high enough to remove one wheel at a time.
So the question is ... could I not just jack in front of and inboard of the rear wheel at that jack point? If I do this, do I need a jacking puck, or would a square of 2x6 wood be sufficient to protect the frame?
And the same questions will apply for the front when I get to that point.
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Yes, you can do that but it's easy to jack from the center and place on stands, as you described. It's very stable. I've probably done it a hundred times. As long as you put safety first, it's a safe way to jack the car.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,118
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From: Madison (Huntsville) Alabama
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Patches, I'm glad you answered because I've come to take your advice as gospel.
It looks like you have a much better jack than I do. Yours has a much larger surface area at the jacking point.
Mine's a 2.5 ton capacity, but it's one of the 'cheapies' and the jacking point surface is round with about a 3-inch diameter surface.
Would that be safe?
It looks like you have a much better jack than I do. Yours has a much larger surface area at the jacking point.
Mine's a 2.5 ton capacity, but it's one of the 'cheapies' and the jacking point surface is round with about a 3-inch diameter surface.
Would that be safe?
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Jacking from the center of the car will be much easier in lifting the car. Since you have such a small lift point on the jack, I would recommend you do what I have done. I went to a local machine shop and had them make me an 8"x8"x1/4" steel plate that I put on the jack pad to help lift the car. This plate fits very well across the crossmember and I don't have to worry about the jack not having a good lift surface. Just a thought.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
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I went to Lowes and bought a 1x10x24 hard oak shelf, and use it to span the rear crossmember. I must admit that I became "skittish" when lowering that down on jack stands.
Patches - wondering what your jack stands are contacting under the rear, and where?
Patches - wondering what your jack stands are contacting under the rear, and where?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 850
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by Patches
And here's where I place my jack stand supports on the rear cross member.
The other site I saw showed lifting the car with the board across the rear, and then lowering the board onto the jackstands. I tried this when I did my exhaust swap 2 weeks ago, and didn't like the way it felt, so I just lowered it onto Rhino's and cut the stock pipes off.
Thanks!
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Advanced
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Waverly Ohio
Patches, those ramps that you have in the pic under your car, can you drive the front end up on those or do they even make any that can clear the C5s front end? Inquiring minds would like to know...especially mine 
. TIA!
Dave
. TIA! Dave
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Dave, my car is too low to drive on ramps, even with a little pre-lift from 2x10's in front of the ramps. Btw, the black Rhino's are the ones I use. My car is lowered 1" on the stock bolts and has dropped another 3/8" since so there's no driving on ramps anymore.
I have seen "pre-ramps" at Griot's.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10142
I have seen "pre-ramps" at Griot's.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10142
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
You can lift similarly on the front cross member as you do the rear. You need to be careful on placement of your jack pad so as not to touch the oil pan or the drain plug. Other than that, I jack at the center of the front crossmember all the time.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,118
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From: Madison (Huntsville) Alabama
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
This is really good information! I'll be trying it this weekend, with plenty of caution.
And Patches certainly has an excellent library of pictures and knowledge.
And Patches certainly has an excellent library of pictures and knowledge.
