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With mine, at night sitting still, if I activate a window or windows, the lights dim for a second, then boost back up to the original brightness; same with the brake lights.
Under most circumstances, if the lights dim, then immediately brighten back up to normal when closing the window, or applying brakes, it is due to the regulator and not the generator. The regulator is designed not to switch to higher output too fast, or the engine could be overloaded. Therefore, there is a a momentary drop in the output with a large load, but the PCM will signal the regulator to ramp up the generator to supply more current for the extra load.
While driving and keeping the RPMs above 1000, the generator is supplying about 35 to 40 percent of its rated output. However, while driving the regulator can and will ramp up current from the generator almost instantaneously. At idle, RPMs below 1000, if the generator is signaled to ramp up current too fast, the engine will dog down (technical term for die).
A power window will draw almost 15 amps, while a rear defogger can pull almost 25 amps, same with the air pump. Headlamps and blower motor will draw 20 amps, while brake lights will vary depending upon their wattage ratings and the number of bulbs in the vehicle.
If a car has been sitting for a while and the battery is not fully charged, the dimming will be more noticeable.
Normal as long as the light flickers when a large load is suddenly applied such as windows, lights, etc. Not normal if they flicker while driving and no extra loads are suddenly applied, or small loads such as a radio are applied.
From: Spread The Virus!!!!!!! Opie and Anthony XM Satellite Radio
Originally Posted by 98NassauBluC5
Well my '98 has a 527 watt amp with two 10's and everytime it hits, total "dimage" on the entire car. I think another alteranator or something might fix it. As for all other electrical things like the windows, same here. The car is a big electrical box.... I guess we need to just go with it, bro.
You need a capacitor for your amp and it will fix your problem. All you need is 1.0 farad, 527 watts its really not much at all.
I had the problem a while back, and my electrical system was blinking in and out while driving and doing nothing else. It ended up being a loose positive connection on the battery. Now my headlights will dim at night when I run the inside fans and the radio, and then do something like hit the brakes or use the blinker, but it's nothing huge.
Having tinkered with 12v systems for many years (including my current one with a 1200w A/V setup. Here's my input.
1) have your alternator checked out at auto-zone or similar to verify it's still capable of producing the required load. If yes, continue to step 2, If not replace your alternator.
2) Look into a "Big-3" upgrade. This consists of 3 heavy gauge (8awg or large) wires:
a) Alternator output to Battery +
b) Alternator bolt to frame Ground
c) Battery (-) to frame ground
This reduces resistance from the alternator to the battery not only helping to charge the battery more effectively from starts, but also reducing the likelihood and severity of voltage drops when accessories are used.
3) If you are still seeing issues (you have a high powered sound system) Consider a purpose-built Hi-output alternator. 200A + is adequate for just about anything you can fit in a corvette. I should note that I am still (easily) running my factory alternator...although I have also converted every bulb in my car to LED
I bought this C-5 last year and rarely drive it at night. I just noticed it happening, that the lights dim when I touch the brakes. It is an odd thing to see them dim and it seems that they seem to stay dim the entire time the Brakes are being used. Not sure if it is a regulator or battery issue. Not really sure how to check the regulator. Any ideas on this old but revisited topic?