evil-1

My car was running excellent until I did three pulls on the dyno and adjusted my MAF-T from zero to 4% rich. As I checked averages the A/F was within safe range,not too lean(13.4) so I put the WOT adjustment on MAF-T back to zero and drove home.

I scan with Ease and have flashed the PCM a couple of times with the one and only LS1 edit, all #'s look very good.

I have drivin the car at least 25 mi and it's not running as strong, I thought adjusting the WOT on MAF-T was an instant change there and back to original settings.

I'm sure its not me, my cam seems to have gotton milder/smoother..

Any thoughts...

Tripp


[Modified by evil-1, 11:42 PM 8/27/2002]

Godspeed

When you reflash with LS1 Edit the PCM has to relearn.

evil-1

I said I adjusted the WOT from zero to 4% back to zero during a dyno session and the car doesn't run as well.

The reflashing of the pcm was done weeks prior and had relearned, the motor was running extremely well at the time I went for a dyno.

All the scanning and adjusting made with maf-t to optimize tuning had been programed into LS1 edit and loaded into the pcm, subsequently the maf-t has been set to 0-base, 0-wot before the dyno.....

RPOZ4Z

so the car was tuned with LS1 edit first, then you put the MAFt on and dyno'd the car, right?

frrom using the MAFt I have learned that it "colors" the signal from the MAF even when the MAFt is set to 0. I had different Ltrims with the MAFt plugged in and set to 0, as opposed to without the MAFt plugged in.
you will have to baseline the car with the MAFt "in-line" or do your LS1 edit tuining with the MAFt "in-line" and set to 0 base, 0 WOT.
:cheers:


[Modified by RPOZ4Z, 7:53 AM 8/29/2002]

evil-1

[QUOTE]
so the car was tuned with LS1 edit first, then you put the MAFt on and dyno'd the car, right?


... No you have it backwards, I've been doing all my adjustments with the maf-t until 2 months ago when I got LS1 edit. At that time I took the base and wot values I had in the maf-t plus some other changes and flashed them into the pcm and set the maf-t back to zero base, zero wot.

RPOZ4Z

how do your numbers look now?

if the car dosn't "feel" as strong, something has to have changed.

question:

why did you leave the MAFt on the car after you programmed the changes into the PCM?
I wouldn't think that you would need it anymore. :confused:

evil-1

The #'s look good, could still be better, LTFT 's , L= +.4. R= + 1.95 , WOT sensors, L= + .9, R = + .885. Knock is 0 with spark advance avg. = 30.5

The maf-t was set to zero on both base and wot before pcm flash. I left the maf-t in place in case during climate changes (winter) or drag racing I may still have the capability to tweek if necessary. This may be unnecessary as I realize now, the motor didn't like the 6% rich I dialed in and took over 100mi to start to come back.
Thats not the norm from what I know, with wot adjustments they should be immediate there and back.... go figure. :confused:

RPOZ4Z

your LTFT's still need some work.
they should be a little into the negative numbers. :cheers:

evil-1

Thanks Tom your right , but first I have an air bridge crack I noticed the other day which probably is making it run more lean.( air bypassing the maf )

I'm getting rid of the Halltech Tric bottom breather this weekend and going with a Vortex and back to stock air bridge.

I'll drive the car through the week and scan the following weekend to see where I am.