I like the Hurst. Im sure there all good anyway.

 

Does anyone have a website that shows pics and directions as to how to install a Hurst shifter on a 2004 Vette? Order one a week ago and have never installed a shifter on a newer Vette, just a couple C3's years ago.

 

Well,........................... for my $$$$$$$$$ it's the "Hurst" shifter

 

I have tried both the Hurst and the BPP. Although both feel about the same as far as shift travel and feel goes, the BPP is adjustable 16 ways. If you can't find the perfect position with the BPP, you are one very deformed person.

You can check out my detailed installation instructions at

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/corvette_c5_corner.htm

Dave

 

I've got a Kirban. 1000% better than stock. I've never driven a C5 with a Hurst so I can't compare to that. I did get an annoying buzz from my stock **** after installing the Kirban. I've read the stock shifter has something to cancel out the harmonics....

 

Lets see is I can put all of this in prespective. All of the aftermarket shifters basicaly do the same thing. There are NOT any gates or guides in any of the shifters that I have seen. Some shifters have adjustable springs and adjustable positive stops.

On my Kirban, I set the stops so that the sfifter arm just touches the stop when the trans is fully in gear. That allows me to be able to feel and hear that solid positive "Its in gear" feel

On the early C5's the shifter would not center by it self when it was in the 1st/2nd position and if you were not careful when down shifting you could slide over into that gate and select 1st vise 3rd and tear all kind of things up!! The return force of the shift lever (on a stock shifter) is a result of a spring inside the trans. Some aftermarket shifters have additional springs that assist that feature and make quick shifting more enjoyable and safer! The stock shifter does NOT have any positioning springs or shifter stops in it.

Some shifters are shorter than others and that short throw also adds to the shift effort. I machined an extra set of holes into my Kirbam shift arm and I can make the throw shorter if I want.

Replacing the shifter is really quite simple. Removing the interior tunnel and dash plastic is the hardest thing and that only takes about 15 min on a bad day!

Here are some pictures of the shifter disassembled so you can get aquainted with whats in there.

Stock shifter removed:





Stock & Kirban shifter.



Shift **** & lock key



Stock Shifter netural zero pin



Stock shifter all plastic stuff removed.




Take a look at the next picture and you will be able to see just how the MN6 gear change takes place. When you move the shift lever left and right, you rotate the yoke in that shifter housing Rotating the yoke twists a rod that is connected to the trans. When the rod is twisted it selects the shift rail inside the trans. Moving the shift lever froward or backwards changes the gears inside the trans.
Make sure that you lubricate the yoke supports and shaft and the plastic shifter shoe before reassembly. I used some synthetic bearing grease.

That rusty pin is the netural zero pin. It is engauged in the shaft and the shaft is locked in netural. This only needs to be done if you were making adjustments to the selector rod at the back of the shifter housing.



All back together with a new Kirban shifter in place!

 

I'm looking at getting a short throw for my '02 z06.

I would like the shifts to be nice and tight. I am looking at either a B&M Ripper, or a Breathless Performance shifter (reviewed on z06vette.com).

Before I make any rash decisions, though, I would like to know what you guys think is best?[/QUOTE]




To add my .02 cents to this discussion. Just a littler background. In the late 60s I had a fast car and did a lot of street racing in those glory days. I also worked part time for a local speed shop. I learned to speed shift and drove many different cars both street and strip.
On my 98 Vert I have a BM. It is miles above the POS. that come from the factory.
Very positive and goes in gear real nice. It is a stiff feeling shifter, but I like it that way. Very positive when the next gear is selected. (I have not missed a quick shift since installing it over 5 years ago)

IMPORTANT use only a HEAVY SHORT ball on the stick. This does 2 things it keeps the overall length shorter. The other thing is the heavy part. You develop more inertia once you move the stick. You push from 2 to 3 and it just sails across the gate. No more missing 3 gear.
Bottom line get a replacement shifter, it will be miles ahead of the junk that came with the car.

 

I used this site as a reference when installing HURST in my '04.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/pat...rInstall.shtml

If you get a buzz sound coming from the **** after installation I recommend buying 3 strips of 1/4 oz. stickon wheel weights and apply them around the shaft, four pieces in two layers, then again another application below the 1st. Secure them with a tie-wrap and that should eliminate any buzzing sound from shift ****.

There is a lot of info on this problem if you search for HURST on this site.

..rickko..

 

Well I definately like the way my Hurst shifter WORKS. However I can't get the frickin thing to stop making noise for the life of me....

 

If I may join the Shifter urinating contest...Ripper for me. The Notchy feel is just a positive "in gear" feeling. Kinda like 'Click, you're in'. Haven't tried any others, though. Had the same ? 2 yrs ago when I was first looking. The B+M won the poll.

 

I have to agree with someone before me that it is like selecting beers as to which one is best. Only way to tell is to test drive someones and compare. I took a chance and am happy with the results. My next step is to drain the stock Dextron ATF and put in Amsoil ATF Synthetic. I've heard switching fluid makes a big difference. I'll let you know after Sat.