I am having the same 'ol starter problem again. Engine gets hot, starter won't work. The problem get worse till it won't start at all (problem now) even when the battery is fully charged and the car is cold?
I think it is heat soaked solinoid? but don't know for sure as a change of the whole starter will fix the problem for a few months.
Where can I find good heat shield for the C5 starters? Thanks for any help

 

There are some on this page that might be worth a try.

Strange, have not had the problem on our '01 Z, which was autocrossed and now DD. Maype a pup cat going bad and making extra heat?

Good luck on the fix...

 

Do you have headers on the car? A permanent cure would be to jumper the solenoid on the starter then wire in a Ford solenoid, mounted anywhere conveniently away from engine heat.Chevies have had this problem for thirty years, but because Ford devised a cure they refuse to use it.I had to do that on my small block powered 240Z Scarab.

 

I had the same problem on my '69 Camaro. It sounds like you have headers. in my opinion a heat shield will not do you much good. They have never worked for me in the past. First I would go with the Ford style remote selenoid. If that does not work by itself try a couple of other things, 1) 0 Guage wire from your battery to starter, 2) A ministarter that uses "permanent magnets" 3) ceramic coat your headers to insulated the starter from heat. If all of that does not work like on my '69 Camaro, sell it. I tried everything on that thing and finally got sick and tired of wrenching all the time and never getting to drive and enjoy it. So it is history and I have yet to bust a knuckle on my '97 C5. Good luck. See pics of the old Camaro by clicking on my toys link.

 

I would like you to try something before you get too far into starter replacement and shields. The starter safety circuit and the theft control circuits on a C5 can cause all sorts of issues. My 98 had simular problem. No start hot and it got progressively worse until it was NO Start at all!

Long story short, my theft deterrent relay went bad. Bastard was full of water! It is located in an area where condensation can collect in it and cause it to be damaged. The theft deterrent relay (TDR) is in the passengers foot well behind the toe board. It will be above the BCM and on the fire wall area. You can identify it by wires with the following colors. Heavy gauge purple, heavy gauge red, light gauge yellow and light gauge yellow/black.

The purple wire feeds 12 VDC to the solinoid on the starter. The red wire provides that 12 VDC. If you jumper the two together the starter will turn over the engine. ***NOTE***MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR!!! The RED wire is always hot! Jumpering it to the purple wire WILL cause the starter to run. (If the starter is good!)

If you ground the yellow/black wire youbtake the security circuit out of the picture.

My point is, if you use the TDR as a diagnosis point you can figure out if the BCM is the problem, the starter safety circuit is the problem or if the solonid/starter is the problem.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Bill Curlee

 

Thanks so far guys. I do have a new set of Kooks 1 7/8" LT and this is surely making a lot of heat. I guess headers and starters don't like each other!
lost: I may just try the ford solinoid idea if that is not to hard to install. The idea that Bill has is intresting and I will give that the first test to see what (if any thing) happens. Then if the solinoid is indeed bad news I'll try the ford solinoid trick.
Thanks so far for the info. I will look at the shields to hopefully help some and I thought about some header wrap in the area of the starter to reduce heat as well. Thanks again....Bill