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I have read that one of the unforeseen problems with the new long-life spark plugs is that they can strip out the threads of the aluminum head if they are left in for the recommended 100,000 miles, give or take, and then removed. I have heard that this problem was recognized at some point and the thread material was changed to prevent this from happening. My question is the following. If the engine is running fine, is there any reason not to leave the spark plugs in for 100,000 miles? My car is a 2002 Z06.
I agree with MukaksC5 in that spark plugs should be changed, or at least cleaned, every 30k miles. More than that, and they just get gunked up, and it really doesn't matter if the metal under the gunk is corrosion & wear free does it??
The worries about the threads stripping is that the anti-seize that's on the threads don't last 100k miles. If you at least take your plugs out to clean and reapply anti-seize, you should be okay.
I agree with MukaksC5 in that spark plugs should be changed, or at least cleaned, every 30k miles. More than that, and they just get gunked up, and it really doesn't matter if the metal under the gunk is corrosion & wear free does it??
The worries about the threads stripping is that the anti-seize that's on the threads don't last 100k miles. If you at least take your plugs out to clean and reapply anti-seize, you should be okay.
AND gap'em this should be the first thing with any G.M.
AND don't over tighten them, Plugs are only 1/8th turn past finger tight
Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; Mar 19, 2005 at 01:43 AM.
I pulled the plugs at 40K and the NGK Iridium was stock from the fact. I am the origional owner. To pull the plugs I am always concerned of pulling threads. What I have found works for me, is to use a long breaker bar, (when it will fit), I break the plug loose for 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Then stop and tightne is about 1/2 of the amount loosened. I use the loosen, tighten back until the Plug is free to turn easily with a small 3/8" drive ratched short handle. When I install I use neverseize for aluminum/spark plug application. I would definitely not go to 40K again. The platinum tips on some of the plugs were burned off and gaps to .070". Change early and be easy on the threads. The only plug I had a problem with was under the brake booster. I bought the Snap on plug / ball socket. It was about $35 or so on their web site. But they charged $25 to ship it. . I also found you can buy the same socket in a complete set elsewhere for about $90, but don't remember where I saw it.. 99 Nassau Blue
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It is pretty basic info, but I think bears repeating here in this thread also; never, ever attempt to remove a plug from an aluminum cylinder head unless the head is cold! If the head is too hot there is a definite risk of pulling threads out with the plug, especially if it is the original plugs.
Robert
It is pretty basic info, but I think bears repeating here in this thread also; never, ever attempt to remove a plug from an aluminum cylinder head unless the head is cold! If the head is too hot there is a definite risk of pulling threads out with the plug, especially if it is the original plugs.
Robert
I've done it before...it was snowing, and I was cold as hell, but the threads in the cylinder head were not...