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I have installed the T1 springs with Bilstein shocks and am having problems with lowering the front of the car.
I lowered the rear bolt to the max and the rear sits nice and low (I could fit 1 finger in the wheel well) and is on factory bolts.
The front bolt is turned to the max as well but I could fit a fist in the wheel well. I cannot figure out what more I could do.
I have already driven the car for over an hour to let it settle and it went down about a half inch from what it was originally but I still have a huge gap.
Has anyone experienced this or have any suggestions.
1st it may settle a bit more with driving (I was skeptical about this until I recently had to make a number of adjustments to my ride height and it really does take a bit).
Next, dumb question - and no insult intended - but did you turn the front the correct way? It is reverse threaded (again no insult intended with this Q).
Then I'd ask when you say turned all the way I'm assuming you mean turned so there's no space between the spring and the bushing (i.e. only the bushing is spacing the spring from the a-arm)? If that's the case you may have to cut the bushing.
I have installed the T1 springs with Bilstein shocks and am having problems with lowering the front of the car.
I lowered the rear bolt to the max and the rear sits nice and low (I could fit 1 finger in the wheel well) and is on factory bolts.
The front bolt is turned to the max as well but I could fit a fist in the wheel well. I cannot figure out what more I could do.
I have already driven the car for over an hour to let it settle and it went down about a half inch from what it was originally but I still have a huge gap.
Has anyone experienced this or have any suggestions.
Yes your car is TOO LOW. T1 springs have more camber then other springs. You must adjust the front height first. The sway bar conectors should be ajustable and not useing the z06 end links. In other words, disconct the awaybar end links, Raise your the front of your car UP and make that equal on both sides. reconnect the end links. Then raise the rear of your car so it is AT LEAST 1/2" HIGHER then the front.
A fully slammed car may look great but the suppension is limited in its travel and does not work properly then.
The rear tires, by the finger method which I have use too, with the T1 is 2 fingers minium from the top of the tire to the fender. more like 2 1/2 fingers.
Here is a pic of my car, Full T1 Suppension. It took me three weeks on the track to get the proper ajustments.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Mar 23, 2005 at 09:36 AM.
funny you ask because originally I did turn it the wrong way and the car was ready for off roading. I did correct that and it was turned counterclockwise so there is no space between the bushing and spring.
As for cutting the bushing, the T1 bushings are not a rubber material like stock and aren't as big. The bushing is made of a very hard plastic and is only about 1/8"-1/4" thick so even cutting it won't make the difference I am looking for.
I just don't understand if both are factory bolt lowered to the max, you should have a pretty even ride height all around but that's no the case with my setup.
Take a look at the part # stamped on the front spring (its on the passenger side). If the last digits are 79 not 79A, you have an older T1 spring that will sit higher. The newer 79A model sits much lower. Mine is lowered with a 79A spring but not maxed out and I can barely get 2 fingers between the tire and fender.
Make sure you have some rake front to rear (i.e. rear higher than the front) or you'll have problems at high speeds.
Yes your car is TOO LOW. T1 springs have more camber then other springs. You must adjust the front height first. The sway bar conectors should be ajustable and not useing the z06 end links. In other words, disconct the awaybar end links, Raise your the front of your car UP and make that equal on both sides. reconnect the end links. Then raise the rear of your car so it is AT LEAST 1/2" HIGHER then the front.
A fully slammed car may look great but the suppension is limited in its travel and does not work properly then.
The rear tires, by the finger method which I have use too, with the T1 is 2 fingers minium from the top of the tire to the fender. more like 2 1/2 fingers.
Here is a pic of my car, Full T1 Suppension. It took me three weeks on the track to get the proper ajustments.
I still have the stock sway bars off my 99 so the endlinks are not adjustable. Are you suggesting I raise the rear back up, disconnect the end links and adjust height on front then reconnect the end links then adjust the rear accordingly?
Also, I will take a look at the #, I think mine will be the older one.
By the way, I would be satisfied with my car being as low as yours is in the picture, mine just looks funny now.
A little rake ensures the correct airflow at speed and will reduce lift. While I've not experienced this 1st hand, many have posted that the front will 'float' at high speeds on a level car due to air pressure underneath the car.
A little rake ensures the correct airflow at speed and will reduce lift. While I've not experienced this 1st hand, many have posted that the front will 'float' at high speeds on a level car due to air pressure underneath the car.
I have experienced lift creasting a hill at 140 mph not fun. with the proper rake, lift became non-existant. The rear of my car was too low.
Yes adjust the front height first, then the rear 3/8s to 1/2 inch higher.
Adjust the height with the swaybars disconected. once the height is proper and equal on both sides then reconect the swaybars. Mostly likely your end links will work, you may have to rotate the swaybar slightly.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Mar 23, 2005 at 10:22 AM.
FYI, there's a lot of misleading information on rake out there. I finally tracked down a thread from C4C5specialist that clarifies it. Rake should be measured at the frame rails due to variations in body panels. You should measure in front of the t-hook hole towards the front of the car and also behind the rear t-hook hole. The variation from front to back should be approximately 5mm. This will translate to about a 1/2" variation at the fenders.
Hope you're feeling better today. It was a great weekend for fun.
I'd like to lower mine about a half inch as well. My question is: If I lower it on the stock bolts, will I automatically get any negative camber? And secondly, if I raise it back up will the alignment theoretically return to normal?
FYI, there's a lot of misleading information on rake out there. I finally tracked down a thread from C4C5specialist that clarifies it. Rake should be measured at the frame rails due to variations in body panels. You should measure in front of the t-hook hole towards the front of the car and also behind the rear t-hook hole. The variation from front to back should be approximately 5mm. This will translate to about a 1/2" variation at the fenders.
Good man. Now to find a level concreat pad to measure.
Good man. Now to find a level concrete pad to measure.
It doesn't have to be level (well, I wouldn't do it on a 30 degree incline ), but does have to be flat. Gravity vector doesn't change much on normal driveways. Parking lots and garages are fine, unless the floor has some curve to it (some garages with center drains, for example).
I second the variation in body panels. My rear fenders seem off (left to right) almost 1/2 inch yet the frame is dead on even. You wouldn't know it looking at the car. A bit of an eye opener for me really to think there's that much difference.