I ran my 2000 hardtop at the local drags tonight with the system in Competition Mode and ended up fish-tailing the rear end for about the first 100 feet down the track with absolutely no traction! The end result was a lousy 15.39 ET at 104.4 MPH. Besides the obvious traction issues with the stock tires, is there any disadvantage to running the car in Competition Mode (Active Handling On\Traction Control Off)? I have heard that ETs will be higher with the traction control system turned off (obviously this wasn't true in my case!). Any tips on launching a Z51 equipped 6-speed car with stock tires?

Thanks in advance,

Jiver67

P.S. After my run I noticed that the DIC was displaying "Service Active Handling", "Service ABS", "Service Traction Control" and the "ABS" light was illuminated on the instrument cluster. These messages (and lights) cleared after shutting the engine off and restarting it. Any ideas what may have happened? I was afraid I had broken something due to my hard launch!!!

 

I'd like to help you man, but, I'm still trying to learn how to launch mine from a 40 mph roll and still have tires left when I get home!

 

Some of the experienced folks who hang out in the Drag Racing section of the Forum may be able to help. Good luck.

 

Competition mode is correct. If traction control is on the car will bog down when it senses wheel spin. You must have DR's (Drag Radials) if you're going to drag race.

With street tires you have to launch from idle. And you'll still have problems. Also, slip the clutch. Not good to do, but only way to get it rolling on street tires.

How many runs did you make? Your computer may have been doing a relearn and you may never see all the codes again.

We hang out in the drag racing section. You'll get plenty of help there.

Bob

 

You pretty much just need to practice your take off and shifting points. I turn the traction control all the way off while at the track. Try launching at 3k at first and shift at 5k. Shifting at 5500 is the sweetspot on the power curve. I got my best time of 12.17 with that shifting and I am only using 4.10s, VaraRam, and ET Streets.

 

It is near impossible to keep the runcraps hooked. My best stock time was 12.93 with none of the above mods and on runcraps.

 

Some good advice. Track prep makes a difference as well. I got my Michelin PS (run flats) to hook like crazy on a well prepped track. I actually launched too low (2000 rpm) and bogged out of the hole and had horrible 60' times. (2.1) and still managed to best a 12.7 at 112

Only thing you may want to consider, is leaving the car in competition mode when you run. It won't affect throttle at all and just may save your **** if you get too sideways, especially on these run flats. Although the Mich PS have been hooking WAYYY better than the old GY run flats.

Seat time with your setup will make a world of difference as well.
Scott

 

A big thanks to all who have responded so far...I appreciate the feedback!

I realize now that I need to "finesse" the car out of the hole with run flat tires in order to maintain traction. Unfortunately I used zero finesse on my run...nearly wide open throttle, banging first and second gear pretty hard and hitting the rev limiter on every shift....yeah I know, I need to learn how to drive!

Thanks again,

Jiver67

 

Hope to see you in the Drag Racing Forum. You'll enjoy it.

Bob

 

Is there any disadvantage to running the car in Competitive mode?

I would say yes. If you are fishtailing the A/H will engage the brakes in order to straighten you out. This will slow you down resulting in a higher ET. On the other hand, if the A/H prevents you from hitting the wall, it is not a disadvantage.

Here’s what I do to launch my MN6 car on the run-flats:

I turn off the T/C and A/H.

First of all avoid the water in the burn out box if possible. If you drive through the water, your front tires are likely to leave a “nice” trail of water for the rear tires, at which point you have no hope of having any traction at all.

Do a long (time wise at least 10-15 second) burnout. Release the clutch quickly (first gear) as soon as the tires start to spin apply the brakes with your left foot in order to keep the car from moving. Modulate the gas with you right foot. Keep the RPMs up around 5000-5500. Get those POS run-flats hot and sticky.

I like to launch from an idle and very quickly roll into the throttle. I have been able to achieve low 1.9 sixty foots on the run-flats using this method.

Regarding the “Service ABS” etc messages; I get these as well. There are two reasons I have encountered. One, if the speed of the rear tires excessively exceeds the speed of the front tires for an extended period of time (i.e. while you are spinning half way down the track) the computer sees this as a malfunction and sets off the warnings. The other time I encounter these codes is when I experience severe wheel hop. For whatever reason this sets off the same warnings. Once the car is turned off and restarted, the messages go away. I have not experienced any lingering problems after this occurs.

 

You can get run flats sticky? We're spending a lot of money on DR's for nothing. And during a burn out you keep your foot on the brake? And you're right, leave off AH. Better to hit the wall than slow down.

Personally, I think this is a lot of .

 

Take it easy there guy. He asked for tips on how to launch with the run-flats, and that is what I presented. Of course DR’s are better than run-flats at the drag strip. If you can’t do better than 1.90’s on DR’s you’ve got a problem.

If you can’t handle your car, and are afraid of hitting the wall then by all means leave the A/H activated.

 

What you presented was a lot of bull. Run flats don't get sticky. You can't do a burnout holding your foot on the brake. And a 13 sec car can't do better than 1.90 even with DR's.

So much misinformation here it makes me want to

 

WHAT?
Most street tires actually loose traction if you do a burn out. Hot and sticky is more like hot and slipery. Unless runflats have really special rubber, a burn out is probably the last thing you want to do. If the tire temp is well below 80°, then maybe. Even then, it would only be to warm them up to a normal summer day temp.

 

why not?

 

What happens when you step on the brake. My wheels quit turning, don't yours? To do a 10 or 15 sec burnout like he said to do you need a line lock. Now ask me what that does. OK, I'll tell you. It locks the front two brakes and allows the rear wheels to spin.

I'm going to turn this over to Mark (mwagne16) and go back to the drag forum where I belong.

Bob

 

ummmmmmmmmm

Well prior to pushing the gas and the brake I put the car in competive mode or turn the AH off. Once this is done, I can do a burn out for 30 min, if I so desire.

and you?

 

I just came from the track- 97 coupe, 315's and run flats...when I got to the burn out pit- I turned off traction control...put my foot on the brake, one on the gas and let them loose...it would have burned till the tires were gone...The torque will overcome brake force any time...unless you have half your spark plugs out...yours should do the same...

 

Good tips. We can now wear out our tires very fast while reducing traction, and wear out the brakes at the same time. Perfect strategy to get some DR's and Brembo's

 

Maybe your misinformed.

A burnout while on the brakes is completly possible. Rear brakes make up for very little of braking so when you actually do hit brakes maybe 30% is rear and the front is 70% (don't know what it is precisley but probably near that.) Anyways the power of the car easily over comes rear brakes allowing a burnout no line lock needed. The trick is to know how to do it correctly, you can't let the clutch go and then slam on brakes you will just bog and look really stupid. You have to get on them just enough to not allow fronts to turn. Only down side is you are going to go through rear pads really fast. But your right misinformation on here make me want to