T-1 End Links
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 53
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From: Martinez CA
T-1 End Links
Ok. This as been an on going pain in the ***, but I think I finally got it nailed. So for all you other guys out there that run the T-1 bars that had problems too this might help. I ran the stock GM T-1 links and they sucked. I ran the Z06 links for a while, not stiff enough for the T-1 bars, clicked, clunked, all kinds of noise. So I did a little research and decided to put together a better link with some help from some threads on the forum that sent me in the right direction. I went to Grainger's (www.grainger.com) bought these 1/2 inch rod ends : Part #s: 6G183, 6G199, 6G215, 6G231. Picked up 4 jam nuts at the hardware store with washers and lock nuts, and some 1/2 inch rubber grommets and C clips and slid them over the nut on the rod end shaft for a little noise insurance. So for about 90 bucks all total, I basically built a bigger stronger Z06 style link. Soooooooooooo much better. No noise, feels tight finally feels right. Z06 shocks and springs, the T-1 bars and these new links with the Goodyear GSD-3's were the way to go. It runs on rails now, the grip is amazing. Hope this helps you guys, nice to be able to post a fix instead of a question for once. 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
I run a full T1 suppension and have no problems what so ever.
Rember to set up the T1 bars you must first set the suppension Unloaded. i.e. no weight on the suppensions. Then put your weight in the drivers seat. I use old rotors.
This what I have done:
Jack car up and place on jack stands.
Then place concreat blocks under the wheels.
Two blocks under each wheel.
On top of each set of blocks I put a big black garbage bag folded over many times.
Let the car down and settle on the concret blocks.
The bags allow the wheels to slide out slightly as they would normally.
Put my weight in old brake rotors in the drivers seat. 17 lbs / rotor 12 rotors. This repesents my wieght.
Let the car sit like this for 2 to 3 hours for settling.
Then I get under the car and adjust the end links and then attach each end link to the a-arms.
Jack car up and remove blocks, set car back on ground and take measurments.
Let car sit for several hours to over night and remeasure
take car for drive to 'feel' the suppension.
Take to shop to check alignment and or re-ajust alignment.
test drive the car again.
When the T1 is adjusted properly there is no noise. and one fricken stiff cornering abilities at speed.
Hope this helps a bit.
Rember to set up the T1 bars you must first set the suppension Unloaded. i.e. no weight on the suppensions. Then put your weight in the drivers seat. I use old rotors.
This what I have done:
Jack car up and place on jack stands.
Then place concreat blocks under the wheels.
Two blocks under each wheel.
On top of each set of blocks I put a big black garbage bag folded over many times.
Let the car down and settle on the concret blocks.
The bags allow the wheels to slide out slightly as they would normally.
Put my weight in old brake rotors in the drivers seat. 17 lbs / rotor 12 rotors. This repesents my wieght.
Let the car sit like this for 2 to 3 hours for settling.
Then I get under the car and adjust the end links and then attach each end link to the a-arms.
Jack car up and remove blocks, set car back on ground and take measurments.
Let car sit for several hours to over night and remeasure
take car for drive to 'feel' the suppension.
Take to shop to check alignment and or re-ajust alignment.
test drive the car again.
When the T1 is adjusted properly there is no noise. and one fricken stiff cornering abilities at speed.
Hope this helps a bit.
