01Z+Haltech+LT's=To lean?
I installed my Supermax LT's today. With those, I replaced the stock plugs with NGK TR6's (Future NX Kit) and MSD wires. Awhile back I put in a Haltech Stinger intake system. The 01 Z06 is stock other than that.
Now, upon crank up and test, the car was sputtering and wanting to stall. Idle RPM is around 400. I at first read only a P0301 (#1 cylinder missfire) code. I replaced the plug with a new one, and wire just in case. Later it read a P0174 (Bank to lean, Bank 2) code. My question is, could the Haltech, plus the LT's lean the car that far out to where even idle is affected?
The car was dynoed several months ago stock, and in the low RPM's the car was very rich. By the time it hit high RPM's the car was way to lean. I knew I needed Edit, and was going to get it after the headers. But didn't expect even the idle to be affected like this.
Something that occured during the install was, I impacted the braided fuel line with the header when putting it in. It kinda crimped it. I took a pair of plyers and carefully brought it back to shape. IMO, I could see how a small crimp could eat horsepower up high, but can't see it at idle.
So, there's my story, can anyone shed a little light. Also, I intend on replacing the fuel line. How do you get the stock braided line off? Looks like it takes a special tool?
Any and all help is appreciated.
TIA.
Last edited by Evolution; Apr 17, 2005 at 12:56 AM.
Anyways the unburnt air will be picked up by the O2 on the side with the leak and cause it to run like **** and give you a lean code. ( The PCM will max out short term and long term fuel trims in an attempt to bring the air/fuel mixture within tolerences , when this can not be achieved it will throw a code )
Pull the plugs on that side too and clean them up , if you have an exhaust leak the car is trying to richen it up but cant because of the un burnt air sneeking in, they may be getting pretty black .
Apparently, Halltech is aware of this problem with older Stinger air bridges and has since added a lip to the air bridge. I read a post awhile back where Jim Hall said anyone with the old style air bridges could exchange them for free. If the sealant doesn't hold, I am going to exchange mine for the improved model.
Cranked the car, let idle. Rough idle all the way around. Once it warmed up the car went to about 500 rpms and sat there. Surging occured to around 1100 rpms twice every once and awhile. After the car warmed up, it smelt heavily with gas in the garage. So the car is definately running way rich. But the computer is reading lean codes in Bank 2.
I did cross the wiring of the banks due to the route the wires run with this system. So Bank 2 is really the drivers side now.
I checked the Stinger induction, tight seal. Installed again. Nothing loose. Couldn't find a air leak anywhere. Car is acting the same as the first time.
Banging my head on the wall at this point.
Anymore ideas?
The only reason I went along with that is the wires just don't have enuff length to reach the harness without touching the headers. I couldn't even get them plugged in. Close, it was, but just couldn't. Haven't heard of this problem with these Supermaxx headers. The instruction say that you can switch the sides.
The Bosch sensors are longer wiring wise, so hopefully they are getting ready to plug into the right side.
Going to do that right now.
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Pop me an email to: dtsngit@bellsouth.net if you'd like to discuss.
Mike
Alright, back to the cluster. It's fixed. I want to thank everyone who helped with your suggestions. I really do appreciate it.
I unhooked, and managed to hook the 02s up right. They did touch the headers on both sides, but I wanted to see. Before melting, they did bring the car back a little. Still smelling rich, still a litte stumbling but better. So, I pull them out and they were pitch black burnt. Natural when you think how rich the car was running I suppose. So, possibly hooking them up in the correct places might have been to late for the poor things. A project I probably could have avoided.
I hooked the Bosch sensors in. First may I say that they give you all you need and a tad more to run the sensors in the stock locations for the rear. On the front, with the extensions, I covered with a Taylor spark plug boot to protect the wires from the heat and zip tied them up to the backbone brace via a couple well placed drill holes.
Cranked it up, and what do you know, the damn thing ran fine. Well, dumbass me and those Supermaxx Distructions.
Took it out on the road and it ran like a raped ape.So, thank you and I will consider this a lesson well learned.
Thank you,
William








