I see a lot of expensive rotors that look really nice but I am after functionality more than looks when it comes to brakes.

I was wondering if anybody has tried the Raybestos Endurance Rotors that can be purchased at Rock Auto???



I was looking at these and the AC Delco Durastops.

http://www.raybestos.com/usa/rotors.htm#

 

http://www.stopforce.com/defined.html (Proven 996/Brembo rotors)
or
Ac Delco Durastop drilled and slotted rotors
*cryo treat rotors at VB&P, if you really want to go all out.

KVP Pads(Cerramic Backed) or Performance Friction Pads(the good ones)

DRM Ducts

Duct Extentions

Duct Spindle Holders

* Aero Space Plastic liners for the duct extentions(If you really want to go all out).

Goodridge stainless brake lines.

Stainless Steel or Titanium Pistons.

AP600 or Super Blue(4 quarts to bleed, there is a resevior).

Tech II Bleed each wheel. Very important.

Lower to T-1 Spec's. One inch, below stock, no more, no less, by the frame rails.

Corner/Cross weight. Topic itself.

Suspension. Topic in itself.

Tires. Topic in itself.

Lighten car. Topic in itself.

Great article in, "Vette Magazine," this month, by Dan, Don & Bob.

Best stop with my car currently 82 ft. from 60-0, no fade on the track.

 

If you are not into looks (slotted\Cross Drilled etc...) I bought a complete set of Rotors from NAPA Auto Parts for abut $100 BRAND NEW. Have them on my 97 with PFC Z rated pads from Autozone...work great for me...I know of others that use them and then toss them when they wear out...for that price...can't be beat!

Cheers

 

www.sportbrakes.com

 

Has anyone tried these? They look good, and seem to have a pretty good description, and obviously price....Take a look. I am deciding between these, and the much more expensive Baer Eradispeeds.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564

 

I had the slotted only sportbrakes rotors on my LT4 and was very pleased with them. When it comes time to change rotors on the C5, I will def go for these again. Can't beat the price either. 240.00 with the forum discount

 

.
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I'm using stock C6 (base) rotors on my 99 Coupe. So far no problems at 8,000 miles.

 

the "best" rotors are neither slotted or crossdrilled.

For a rotor to be the best it would require two things in my opinion. ability to last with continued heat and stopping power.

Slotted and Drilled have less surface area, thus less ability to bring the car to a halt. Drilled have a great tendancy to crack and worse yet break with even a small amount of heat build up. Slotted do the same but at a slower rate then the drilled ones.

Your best bet are the $25 NAPA (or Rock Auto Rotors).

Don't believe the "bling" boys. Slotted/Drilled are actually the worst. Pads will do much more for your breaking ability then rotors. And with them, stay away from ceramic.

 

The sportbrakes rotors ( slotted only ), at least on my LT4, provided a vast improvement in braking power over the stock rotors. I replaced them because I was tired of " rusty rotor " syndrome and I was amazed at the difference in performance. Also, since I had replaced pads only 1200 miles before, I did not replace them. Not trying to disprove anything, just relating my own experience.

 

Cheap Slotted and Drilled rotors, are just that cheap. Cheap Napa rotors are just that, even cheaper.

I will easily get 1,500+ hard track miles out my Porsche slotted rotors with pre cast holes with zero fade. They will outperform the cheap Napa rotors on any day. These have been proven in almost every racing venue in the last fifteen years and have won many, many races.

The ceramic, "backed," pads I use are the same ones, some of the open wheel drivers use and same ones, one the Factory GM Corvette racers use.

As far as ceramic rotors, it will be a while before those issues are worked out for street cars. I know three people that own 65 series Mercedes and a GT2 owner.

Alcon, Brembo and many other companies make slotted and/or cast hole rotors too. They work great on and off the track. If I recollect correctly, the C5R/C6R rotors are slotted ceramics.

 

Ehhh.....Try again.

C5R are neither slotted or drilled. Why you ask? Maybe because of better stopping power from a solid rotor and longer use

Fact or Fiction

Check out the thread from one of the last time someone thought maybe drilled/slotted were better. Or perhaps join us in the Road Race section of the forum and tell us all how much better the drilled/slotted ones are and how crappy the napa rotors are.

I mean what the hell do we know. Most of us only race all weekend, every weekend. What knowledge can be gained from that

 

I was at Gingerman Road Course here in Michigan last year with a bunch of other vettes. For most of us, it was our first time on a road course. One of the guys had a great looking set of cross drilled rotors, he pulled off the track early that evening because he developed 2 cracks on one of the front rotors. I've never seen a solid rotor crack.

There is a big differance to between drilling the holes after the rotor is made... and the one described above that where cast with the holes in them. You can't start cutting holes in anything and expect it to be stronger than it was before before.

 

Wow, Those Raybestos rotors look really nice!
How much are they?

 

if you are looking for performance that means you are hard on the brakes.
Then don't go slotted or drilled they will crack much faster than the stock. Drilled and slotted will only improve low quality pads.
If you want to increase the performance of the braking change the pads. Use a higher coef for the pads, this is were you will see the improvement. Be carrefull some race pads require to be at temperature before to be efficient and will wear the rotors when not at temp. Also quality pads do not gas then does not need drilled rotors to evacuated the gases. A high quality pads can work up to 1600 deg F.
The next improvement is the SS brake lines.
If you just need a couple of hard braking you will be fine.
If you road track the car then you will need a few other adds.

Cooling brake duct form DRM. they will bring the cool air to the rotor and not to the tires.

SS piston from DRM will transfer less heat to the fluid.

A high temp fluid like HTE blue a high boiling point without going carzy for the price. $10 a quart.

Titanium shield to install between your pads and the pistons. Titanium do not transfer the heat.

With this set up you will see a huge difference in braking distance.
However you will need wider tires with stickier rubber to benefit from this setting.
You will also find a more consistent brake pedal

 

You are wrong. I never said they were drilled or the C5R had used drilled rotors. Brembos are not drilled either, they are cast.

The C5R cars have used a variety of brakes and rotors. Both Alcon & Brembo. Slotted, Non-slotted traditional rotors and ceramic rotors. Depending on the current rules and what they wanted to use. The ones they were running at Laguna, last October, were slotted Alcon ceramic rotors if I recollect correctly. FYI, I had the owner's box, right next to GM Racing, with the cars directly below. I may even have a picture of the C5R, they had on display there.

FYI, a lot of pro racers use slotted rotors. Maybe you take a look at David Farmer's car. He runs StopTech slotted which were very popular last season.

You keep racing weekends. I have owned three professional race teams and have owned numerous high dollar cars. IRL, WSC(Two Factory Ferrari 333SP's), Mazda Star Series(Carbon Fiber Indy Light).

Again cheap Napa's, are just that, cheap. There is nothing wrong with that. I have few friends that run them. I just want more performance.

If I run, next month, against the Porsche's guys. I will make sure a few photos get taken. Several of them our at 2,200-2,700 lbs., running 13-15" Brakes, with slicks. I will go toe to toe with my 3,100 lb. Zee, no problem, zero fade, just as deep as they will go, over and over and over again.

 

As I said slotted are better then cross drilled because they clean the pad. Look at the factory CR5 cars? Slotted? Nope Cross-drilled? Nope hmmmm..


Also please IM with who you are. My dad has been a major player with Ricks Ferrari Teams at LFF and I have traveled with them to many tracks meeting most of the major players over the last 15 years. If you are anyone (and it's obvious by both your attitude here and you personnal info that you sure think you are)I'm sure I already know you. Let me know maybe we can catch up on old times.

And thanks but I have had my own race teams , Spec Saab, Showroom Stock Mustangs (91-93 with two Saleens) though nothing as high profile as you with your IRL teams and WSC and the be all end all of Mazda lights



That's after only 4 hours. Inspires tons of confidence doesn't it. But I'm sure with all your loads of cash replaceing a few body panels and wheels that get destroyed from brake damage is no big thing. Us poor people will just use solid rotors that have more braking surface that don't crack

 

What part of NAPA/Raybestos rotors do you consider cheap?

 

Not going to get in arguement about which is better. I have run both and others. We both know we would not get anywhere and that this is a hugely complex subject. Again, I never said, "crossed drilled rotors." Brembo/Porsche/Mercedes cast's their rotors and do not drill them. So I am unsure as to why you have repeated yourself, three times.

There are a lot slotted rotors out there in the racing world and Napa rotors DO CRACK and on a regualr basis, even after being cryoed. I have seen it happen, more than once. Again, I do not think that necessarily the wrong way to go if economy's of scale/price is your driving force.

Again, the C5R rotors I inspected at that time were slotted. I do know, that they used a variety of setups over various seasons.

I will e-mail you. I am/have been an owner, so you don't know me, but it is quite possible that you know our past drivers. I have pay bills just like anyone else. As far as damage, a Wilwood rotor exploded last year and took out a good piece of a Vette, at Road Atlanta last year. Luckily, did not take off any of the owners limbs.

 

Has anyone ever used/heard of this company?

Stop Force

Cast OEM Porsche rotors, might not be a bad deal for $650.

 

Thanks for the IM it was very enlightning. I would see about getting that info straight that I sent you. I would be very concerned if I were you. All that money to run an team and not one single ounce of credit. Not to mention the League didn't even know your "driver" was racing the year you "owned" the team he was on.

The rotors above were CAST with the holes, and guess what they still crack. and they crack bad. Makes little difference.

Again thanks for the education. But Like I said I'll keep racing on solid rotors that stop me shorter (because of added material) and don't break (Because of structural weakness from missing material). I guess I'm just old fashioned