Security Light was always on till....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 925
Likes: 4
From: EXTON PA
Security Light was always on till....
Funny thing happen on the way to the install of a Mod with intermitten turn signal kit and the third brake light. Install instructions of one MOD had me remove the rear license plate and light(2) bracket. While it was out i desided to replace both bulbs & discovered that one had so much corrosion that it became a major event to just remove the bulb. The corrosion was bad on the inside walls of the bulb socket. I used emery paper to remove the build up. The emery paper and PS Blaster did work and the new light bulb works. Greased in and around the top of both light sockets to avoid any additional corrosion built up, but now my problem with the Security Light being always on is gone. Could that corrosion in that light socket really have cause that Security light problem or is the problem taking a rest?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 17,786
Likes: 4
From: Redsox, Pats, Celts & Bruins !!! Redsox Nation !!!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
I don't think so, the security like is tied into the pelet in the key, from what I understand, ask Bill Curley.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Your ignition switch and BCM and a whole bunch of external sensors make up the security system. I had a simular problem but my traction control light would come on for no reason. When the light was on there were all sorts of different issues that made the car run $hitty. Come to find out, I had a corrosion problem also! All of my chassis grounds were severly corroded! I cleaned all of them and PRESTO, the car runs like it was new!! 
No more gremlins!
I constructed a very informative post on grounds and how to clean them. It was titled "IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (LONG)" The link was broken and you could only read part of the thread so I asked Troy Roberts to see if he could take a look at the post and restore it. If the link doesnt work, keep trying.
I just checked and it is still whacked out. Here are some pictures of the connectors and what the corrosion looks like!
CONNECTOR JUST BEHIND THE HEADLIGHTS ON THE FRAME
ALL CLEANED UP!
The blach plastic connector will come apart. Disassembly is a must to get all of the corrosion out. The stud will need to be cleaned also.
Bill Curlee
No more gremlins!I constructed a very informative post on grounds and how to clean them. It was titled "IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (LONG)" The link was broken and you could only read part of the thread so I asked Troy Roberts to see if he could take a look at the post and restore it. If the link doesnt work, keep trying.
I just checked and it is still whacked out. Here are some pictures of the connectors and what the corrosion looks like!
CONNECTOR JUST BEHIND THE HEADLIGHTS ON THE FRAME
ALL CLEANED UP!
The blach plastic connector will come apart. Disassembly is a must to get all of the corrosion out. The stud will need to be cleaned also.
Bill Curlee
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,917
Likes: 18
From: Tulsa OK
I had the same issue with the security light, but mine went as far as to keep the engine from turning over. I followed all of Bill's advice. It helped, but I ended up ordering a new ignition lock from Fred Beans and had it installed a few weeks ago. The problem is gone! When I compared the old lock to the new one, you could see how worn out the old one was. The metal contacts were worn down. Mine is a 98 with 78k, so it just wore out I guess from the key going in and out so many times (not unlike some girls I knew in college)!
Bryan
Bryan
