Z06 Shocks installed
All I can say is what a difference. I'm happy!
For those that are thinking about changing shocks, I'll say the only issue I had was with compressing the shocks. What a PIA!
I didn't find much info relating to this, so I'd recommend more research. I tried the zip tie method. I think this would work best if only I had zip ties strong enough to hold the compressed shock. Next I tried duct tape. The tape worked, except it would only hold for about 3 minutes, then it would uncompress.
The main problem with the duct tape is that it left sticky residue behind. Other than that, I'm happy with the new shocks.



[jmiller]I installed the 2004 Z06 shocks this weekend. I originally tried to purchase Bilsteins, but no one had all 4 in stock. So Fred Beans came to the rescue.
All I can say is what a difference. I'm happy!
For those that are thinking about changing shocks, I'll say the only issue I had was with compressing the shocks. What a PIA!
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I just finished doing the same thing. Much better ride on these horrible NY streets. Corners better getting onto or off the Parkways. When I installed mine I disconnected the upper "A" Frames, this made taking the shock out and installing the new one much easier. Just remember to put the spacers back where they came from. On the right side of my car there was one spacer on each bolt between the "A" Frame and the chassis. On the left side it was two each on the rear "A" frame and none on the front "A" Frame. If you forget where they go.......you'll be sorry, I was.
http://www.c5forum.com/diy/shocks.php
I did not remove the coolant or washer tanks. I could put a wrench on the the shock from underneath. I think if a few of the experts out here could add which end of the shock they start with, and how they compress while on the vehicle, would help temendously.
I did find having a 3lb. hammer helped a little. I'd fight with getting a front shock off for an hour, and resort to a little persuasion with the hammer and it came right off. So, take that hint. Don't fight an hour, be ready sooner
Have a buddy! There was a few times an extra set of hands helped (and not my 5 year old's, although he was a lot of help
).Since the shock install, my scrapes in and out of driveway is much less. For whatever that is worth.
After redoing the entire front suspension of my 1969 GTO after sitting for 20 years, how tough can this be? (famous last words, right?
)





DO IT!
i have 03 vert and the difference is worth EVERY penny. the stock shocks have not engough rebound and copression damping. the zo6 shocks have the perfect amount.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
For those that are thinking about changing shocks, I'll say the only issue I had was with compressing the shocks. What a PIA!
Default EZ Z06 Shock install, a how to.
It only takes 15 to 30 minutes per shock. I'm sorry I don't remember the exact tools size used, I think it was a 13mm & a 15mm open end wrench and a 13 mm socket for the front. The rear was a 6mm allen wrench, 13mm socket and a 15/16" socket and 15/16" box wrench. Two to four screw type hose clamps either two sets of two joined or two big ones. A two foot length of 1" strong woven strap.
To remove and install the front shock, it needs to be compressed and held in the compressed position. Remove only one wheel at a time and place one jack stand under the suspension. I used a 6" X 6" X 18" wooden timber/post under two wheel studs to adjust the height of the A arm to get the suspension in the up or down position as needed, using the hydraulic jack. This will become clear to you while you work. First remove the shock top nut and washer. My Z06 front shocks didn't come with these so don't lose them. Remove the nuts and one bolt from the bottom mount. I leave one bolt in to keep the shock from moving out of position. I used two screw type hose clamps and a 2' x 1" length of thin woven strap. Hose clamp one end of the strap to the top of the shock then run the strap through a loose hose clamp at the bottom of the shock. You can vise grip clamp the long end of the strap to a long rod type tool to lever/pull the top of the shock down or clamp the strap to your jack and jack the car up some more to pull the top of the shock down. When you get it compressed, tighten the loose hose clamp on the bottom of the shock and remove it. To install the new shock, attach the strap to the top of the shock and use a board on your stomach to compress the shock with the other end against a wall, compress it and then hose clamp it. Now, double check that the correct rubber thingie and steel washer is in place on the shock before you install it. Position the shock in the car with the bottom bolts and loosen the bottom clamp slowly while you guide the end up through the mount hole.
The rear shocks only need a lever or big screw driver to pry in and out. Remove the rear toe adjustment rod first, use a 6 mm allen wrench to keep the tapered bolt from turning when you reattach.
Cheers, Curt













