Lowered on stock bolts a couple weeks back and just got around to getting alignment today. I didn't get a compute printout or anything, just some figures jotted on the paper I brought in with the specs I wanted.

I asked for what had researched as Z06 specs:

Front toe 0.08
Rear toe -0.02

Front caster 6.9
Rear caster N/A

Front camber -0.7
Rear camber -0.68

The figures I got were:

Front toe 0.10
Rear toe -0.02

Front caster (not noted)
Rear caster (not noted)

Front camber -0.8 -0.6
Rear camber -0.5 -0.6

I guess I'm wondering why I got no caster number and two camber numbers. I guess the camber number I asked for is per wheel? I paid $72 for the alignment and I guess I assumed I'd get a computer print out of the before and after or something so I'm a little apprehensive of the job. He did say that he had to reset the toe so I have the knowledge that taking it was worth it to save on tire wear, which bad toe settings would cause.

There were a couple places mentioned in a recent Houston alignment shop thread and I probably should have gone to one of them but this place was close to home.

Lesson learned I guess. While I have no idea what the caster is set to, which would be pretty important for handling I guess I know that my alignment is not tire threatening after the lowering. I was really hoping that an alignment would help more with the hopping over bumps in corners. The lowering/bilsteins helped some but I'm guessing the caster would be what would help that and I don't know what that is.

 

Bill

The range it was adjusted too was too great. and you NEED THAT before and after print out.

Take the car back and tell him it feels bad and have him do it again, and you require that print out.

rember exact numbers no ranges.
Good luck

 

Not sure I follow what that means. You mean the #'s I was given were not within spec?

Alos, is it possible that they are so old school that there woudl be no printout?

 

WHen I had my laser alignment done, I brought them the printed out specs. The tech tried to get them exact, but on 2 adjustments, he spent 20 minutes trying to get it exact. When he had it dead on, it changed by the time he tightened the bolts. He even tried to overcorrect to try to get it right on after tightening, but couldn't. I'd say within a few hundredths is fine!
Ron

 

Those numbers don't actually look to bad to me. The numbers are RF camber is -0.8, LF is -0.6 which is pretty close to the stock Z06 mid range setting of -0.7.

As a note, the Z06 spec is actually -0.7 +/- 0.5 meaning anything from -0.2 to -1.2 is "in" spec. But, there is also a side to side requirement that they be within 0.25 which yours is.

Caster is the angle the front spindle is angled backwards (like the fork on a bike). It helps the car track straight. If it is off, it will not impact handling (as in cornering grip) that much. It may impact straight line stability if one side dominates the other, particularly under braking. So, not knowing the caster doesn't necessarily mean you are in trouble, but...

The actually Z06 specs are:
Specs:
Front Individual Toe: +0.04 degree +/- 0.10 degree
Front Sum Toe: +0.08 degree +/- 0.20 degree
Front Individual Caster: +6.9 degree +/- 0.50 degree
Front Cross Caster: within +/- 0.25 degree
Front Individual Camber: -0.70 degree +/-0.50 degree
Front Cross Camber: within +/-0.25 degree
Rear Individual Toe: -0.01 degree +/- 0.10 degree
Rear Sum Toe: -0.02 degree +/- 0.20 degree
Rear Individual Camber: -0.68 degree +/- 0.50 degree
Rear Cross Camber: within +/- 0.50 degree