Continuous Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Continuous Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds
I am getting the error message "Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds" everytime I start and restart my 2000 C5. The vehicle runs fine at an idle but will not move over 1 mile an hour and then dies. I have cleaned both of my keys, disconnected and reconnected the battery and pulled out and replaced fuses 23, 25, and 27. I've also gotten new error codes 99 HVAC U1160 HC, 60 IPC u1160 HC and AO LDCM No Comm. I have a new battery in the vehicle and the column lock bypass replaced. Very frustrating, thanks in advance for any help to at least get it to run so I can drive it to a dealership without paying for towing charges.
Last edited by huskerhoss; Jun 11, 2005 at 02:03 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Sounds like your ignition cylinder may be causing the problem. Try this. Spray some electrical contact cleaner into the ignition cylinder lock and then insert the key and pull it in and out a few times. The sensing contacts inside the cylinder may just be dirty.
As for the other codes, if you clear them and start the car, do they come right back?? Normaly the U codes indicate one or more modules are getting low voltage or are not communicating with the other modules. All of your codes indicate that the Door control modules are causing the issue. Check the connections that connect the Door control modules and the door to the car and make sure that they are tight, clean and dry. The connections are inside the accordian tube that connect to door to the body.
BC
As for the other codes, if you clear them and start the car, do they come right back?? Normaly the U codes indicate one or more modules are getting low voltage or are not communicating with the other modules. All of your codes indicate that the Door control modules are causing the issue. Check the connections that connect the Door control modules and the door to the car and make sure that they are tight, clean and dry. The connections are inside the accordian tube that connect to door to the body.
BC
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2005
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Originally Posted by huskerhoss
I am getting the error message "Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds" everytime I start and restart my 2000 C5. The vehicle runs fine at an idle but will not move over 1 mile an hour and then dies. I have cleaned both of my keys, disconnected and reconnected the battery and pulled out and replaced fuses 23, 25, and 27. I've also gotten new error codes 99 HVAC U1160 HC, 60 IPC u1160 HC and AO LDCM No Comm. I have a new battery in the vehicle and the column lock bypass replaced. Very frustrating, thanks in advance for any help to at least get it to run so I can drive it to a dealership without paying for towing charges.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
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From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by Hellobkk
Had same problem,culprit was croated relay under passenger floorboard.
Was the relay corroded inside, or just the connector? How did you fix it?
Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
My BCM was wetted and I started to have some weird problems. My BCM circuit board had corossion on the back of the board. I cleaned it off but it still had an issue. Had to get a new one.
Here is a picture of the old board:
The white corrosion that I found on the board was on the pins at the bottom of the board near the connectors.
I removed the board from the aluminum box, used a stiff nylon brush and alcohol to clean the board. If you remove the board from the box, be careful. The board is ESD sensitive!! Make sure that you examine the IC component at the top of the board. Check the position of the heat sink. See if your heat sink touches the case or not prior to removing the board from the case.
If there is corossion, just clean it off and reinstall the board back in the case. DISCONNECT the battery prior to removing the BCM from the car!!! It is powerd all of the time!
BC
Here is a picture of the old board:
The white corrosion that I found on the board was on the pins at the bottom of the board near the connectors.
I removed the board from the aluminum box, used a stiff nylon brush and alcohol to clean the board. If you remove the board from the box, be careful. The board is ESD sensitive!! Make sure that you examine the IC component at the top of the board. Check the position of the heat sink. See if your heat sink touches the case or not prior to removing the board from the case.
If there is corossion, just clean it off and reinstall the board back in the case. DISCONNECT the battery prior to removing the BCM from the car!!! It is powerd all of the time!
BC
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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I've got mine out but there looks like there is quite a bit of corrosion throughout the whole board. I will try and clean it and see what happenes but worst case, how much does the BCM cost. Do I need to order it or will a dealership have it?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,896
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From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
Originally Posted by huskerhoss
I've got mine out but there looks like there is quite a bit of corrosion throughout the whole board. I will try and clean it and see what happenes but worst case, how much does the BCM cost. Do I need to order it or will a dealership have it?
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
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Mission accomplished. I took a toothbrush with rubbing alcohol to all of the corroded areas and then a blow dryer to thoroughly dry the piece off and it worked like a charm. All of my electrical demons that I have been fighting for two months instantly went away. I cannot thank everyone enough on this board. Thank you so so much, I cannot imagine what this board saved me in mechanical expsenses.
Congrats!!! Well done!! 
You can contribute to all of out C6 Z06 purchase fund drive!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You fixed the symptoms! Now you need to eliminate the cause. The HVAC box drain and the Fan motor vent hose is allowing condensation to enter the passengers foot well. Insulate the black vent hose with bubble wrap and cut the end of the drain hose off!!
The flash light beam is shining on the rubber elbow connection area.
Fan motor drain hose:
Let me know if you need more info. I would remove the passengers carpet and make sure that it is dry!
Bill
The flash light beam is shining on the rubber elbow connection area.
Fan motor drain hose:
Let me know if you need more info. I would remove the passengers carpet and make sure that it is dry!
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
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Bill,
I had fixed the condensation hose last weekend, I had about a full 12 oz can of water drip on to my arm so hopefully that was the culprit. I just popped the modle out of the tin box and replaced it as it was before. I did not notice the heat sensor you had mentioned. I am not very mechanically inclined so I think I just got lucky today. Or could I have messed something up? Thank you again for your help.
Jeff
I had fixed the condensation hose last weekend, I had about a full 12 oz can of water drip on to my arm so hopefully that was the culprit. I just popped the modle out of the tin box and replaced it as it was before. I did not notice the heat sensor you had mentioned. I am not very mechanically inclined so I think I just got lucky today. Or could I have messed something up? Thank you again for your help.
Jeff
