I am very close to installing the CHeaTR CAM from TR. I have read the LS1HOWTO.com writeup several times and printed out the instructions. Despite this, I have a few questions. Since they show doing a LS6 intake manifold, heads and CAM, it seems there is a lot more done I don't need to do. For instance, do I even need to remove my exhaust manifolds, the intake manifolds or any of that. Can I just remove the coil packs and valve covers to change the springs. All I am doing is the CAM and springs, nothing else. Seems like the Cam install for the Fbody writeup is the better instruction except for having to remove the power steering rack and radiator. Am I correct in this? Is there a better C5 Cam and spring only writeup? I would post on Ls1tech.com but most of those guys seem to be Fbody owners. Also, to keep the lifters up, can I use the 5/16 dowels rods vice the pen magnets as described in the Fbody writeup up? Thanks for any help. Any other tricks? I have been buying tools and stuff for the last year so I could do this myself and just got my compressor so I am excited.

Jim K.

 

You only need to remove the exhaust and intake if you are doing the heads. The radiator and steering rack will have to come out. You will need to pull the rockers and pushrods to get the pen magnets to the lifters, which is the best way to go. I don't suggest it, but there is the "russian-roulette" method, which someone will inevitably mention. Basically you remove the rockers and pushrods to take the "push" off the lifters, then just before you remove the cam, spin it 360 to push all the lifters to the top of their tracks, and swap the cam, hoping they don't drop in the mean time. Several forum members have had this bite them in the butt, so like I said, I don't recommend it.
If it was me, I would do the springs first, and break them in, it's not absolutely necessary, but since it is not much more work in your case might be a good way to go.
If you want some help, you can fly me to Monterey, loved my visit there at DLI.

Good Luck!

 

So you are saying buy the springs, install them, break them in with the stock cam. I was looking the patriot double golds. Can I used them with the stock cam. Also, you mention the pen magnets. You recommend these over the dowel rods? Yep, not doing russian roulette. I would fly you out to help but that would kill my mod money, sorry. Thanks for the advice.

Jim K.

 

I did a cam install last year, and recommend the dowel rods or the tool that TR sells to hold the lifters up. I followed the LS1 How-to minus the steps for the head swap and everything went well.

Good luck,

 

If you go to LS1Howto.com and look in the f-body section, they do a cam only installation. This will give you an idea to the steps you can skip for your installation.

This is a high interest cam in my book, do you have a before dyno?

 

Yep, I got my baseline at Andy's this weekend. See my sig for numbers.
Jim K.

 

I strapped you down at Andy's....... nice car, love the color!!

 

You'll need a puller to yank the crank pulley, I bought mine at Sears for $30.00. This is a good time to changed to a double roller or LS2 timing chain. Definitely pin the crank pulley just in case you decide to go super charged or turbo. Pinning the pulley is a good idea anyhow.
You will save hours of labor if you pin the crank pulley now and you will have a huge grin in the future if you do decide to go F/I.

 

Thanks for the compliment and my hats off to you and the rest of the crew that busted your butts on Saturday. Sure made for a great time. Thanks again.

Jim K.

 

I'm in the middle of this right now on my 01 vette, I've done a number of these on F-bodies.

Tips:

If you use the DTC method you don't even have to take out your sparkplugs

Make sure you have a Torque wrench that goes to 250ft \lbs and a big pipe

The Larry's tool, Tim's tool whatever works great for spring installs although I'd upgrade the nut and washers.

If the car is low miles there is no need to change the timing chain or oil pump. If you had a 97-98 they had some pump problems or if your ride had 50K+ miles then I'd start looking into. The stock chain (and new LS2 chain) are going to have some slack so don't get worried. alot of people screw up the oil pump install which has to be done to change the chain so if you don't need to I wouldn't mess with it.

The longer crank bolt is not optional it is a MUST for the removal and install. Unless you have the Kent moore setup.

Don't go nuts on gaskets you need water pump, timing cover and crank seal and a new crank shaft bolt and thats about it. The valve covers are reusable (At least a few times)

The JPR tool I had didn't work on my 01's, I just did the Russian roulette method. It works fine but it is definately a Use at own risk, Higher mileage cars NO WAY , but mine has 12.5K on it and the lifters were stuck up pretty good, I've done a few head swaps and you'd be suprised how well the lifters stay in there cups. But like has been said all it takes is one to drop and you ruin your weekend. If you use magnets don't skimp by the good ones.

Thats all I can think off the top of my head its late and I need to go to bed. Its really an easy install just time consuming.

 

Awesome tips and thanks a bunch. My car is pretty new, 5000 miles, so I am not messing with the chain or oil pump. Where to you find the longer crank bolt. I didn't see them on any vendors sites. I have the size of the extend bolt. Do I just use it to get the pulley back on and then use a new standard crank bolt? As for the liftes, I am going to use some 3/16 rods bars from Home Depot. I ordered the Moore compression tool. Expensive but if this becomes a bad addiction I guess it will be worth it or I can always sell it. Thanks again. I am getting much more confident about this install.

Jim K.

 

I put my balancer in the toaster oven for 60 mins at 200 degrees stuck it on the crank and tapped the internal wheel about 10 times with a hammer. After that got a good 6 to 7 turns on the bolt and pulled it home with the stock length bolt.

 

While this may work I personally do not agree with it. Here is how I put a crank pulley on. First I put it in the oven at 250 while I'm getting the timing cover ready, after the timing cover is on with all the bolts loose and cleaned up I grab the pulley with Mechanix gloves on. Then using the longer bolt and a washer that fits flush on the pulley like the stock bolt head does you get quite a bit of threads. Get it down about 4-5 turns approx and put a another washer on and go a few more turns then put the old bolt back in and keep going until it is torqued to 240. It goes right on really and isn't a big deal. Then follow the instructions for the torque to yeild bolt.

While I agree that the stock bolt will work 99% of the time we are talking about your crank threads here, I'll chance a lifter dropping but not the crank threads

Plus get the bad boy metric bolt (forgot what they call it) I'd trust that better than the stock Torque to yeild bolt cranking that thing down.

JMHO I just finished mine my elbow is killing me must be getting old

 

Personally, with heavier springs I would go to a better timing chain like the LS2 chain. The LS1 timing chain is a known weak point, unless the 04's already had it like many other C6 parts.

 

I don't know if its a weak point maybe in all out racing every weekend big *** cam etc it might be a good idea but then I'd probably do a JWIS or another quality single chain.

Actually now that I think about it I've rarely heard of a stock chain breaking usually its the after market ones. Or the problems with the install, clearances etc. Really how many LS1 chains have you heard of breaking? Not being argumentitive (or trying not to be ) just from my experience I don't agree with your statement but if I'm wrong I would probably need to know. Not too mention I don't want to be giving the wrong advise....

 

I see a lot of posts on LS1Tech where the stock chain has failed. Heavier springs would hasten its demise. I agree on the JWIS or an LS2 chain. Its one of those things that you are in there, a failure can be catastrophic later, and the part is relative cheap (LS2=$28). Granted you have to undo the oil pump, but thats it. Seems like cheap insurance to me.

What I am not sure of is if the 04 already have it as many of the C6 parts seem to have found their way into the 04 model and the LS2 chain is now the stock replacement for the LS1 as well. Also not sure what springs he is installing, but the 918's have a pretty good seat force compared to stock LS1 springs.

 

I'm still going to disagree, I'm an avid member of LS1tech.com and its very rare to hear of a stock chain breaking. If you do a search on timing chain failures you are probably going to get more aftermarket breaks than stock ones. I will agree that IF you have the oil pump out I'd just change it or if you had 50K on the motor then year it makes sense. But how many times do you hear of guys not installing the pump back correctly and not having any oil pressure during startup.

We are both right so I'm not saying your wrong just giving another side of it This is actually a hotly debated subject over at LS1tech what I recommend is that people research it make your own decisions.

LS2 chain IS cheap insurance but I personally wouldn't do it unless I had the pump off. Then I would do it no matter what, whats 30 bucks really??