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Does anyboy know if you can jack up the Z on one side, near the center so that both front and rear wheels lift at the same time.
Looking to save time changing wheels, brakes, etc...
Saw a guy do it to his M3 at the track..
When I jack up my Vette from the specified jacking points... both my tires will come up off the ground. The part I am jacking from will be off the ground higher.
My sure you keep your windows down, and hacth unlatched (for the coupes) when raising the car with a floor jack. There have been reports of broken windows from flex in the car.
When I jack up my Vette from the specified jacking points... both my tires will come up off the ground. The part I am jacking from will be off the ground higher.
My sure you keep your windows down, and hacth unlatched (for the coupes) when raising the car with a floor jack. There have been reports of broken windows from flex in the car.
First time I have every heard of this...
Get some rocker rail protectors from A&A corvette. We do the NASCAR style jacking with and without these all the time and coupes and FRCs. Its much easier with the RR protectors.
(Make) sure you keep your windows down, and hacth unlatched (for the coupes) when raising the car with a floor jack. There have been reports of broken windows from flex in the car.
I remember that back from my C3 days... but never heard that said about C5's
I remember that back from my C3 days... but never heard that said about C5's
Once my front tire is about 4 inches of the ground... the rear tire starts to lift free of the ground. I am lifting at the recommended jacking point. I can't lift the front and get enough hight to get the jack stand set up for the rear, I still have to set the jack down and lift from the back.
I don't have any body or frame mods. I thought it was because the body was so stiff.
I just did this tonight. Lifting at the front jacking puck hole, I raised the entire side of the vehicle to get under. I was able to fit stands under both front and back for safety. It helped too that I was using an SUV jack with a lift capablity of 23". But, both tires were off the ground at half the lifting height. Didnt know that bout the hatch, etc...probably no worries, but I'll be thinking about it next time though, darn it...
The slots everyone seems to lift at with the pucks, are not the proper, or recommended lifting points. If anything tweaks using these as lift points, any resulting damage may not be covered under warranty. I believe these are tie-downs slots for shipping. The lift points, per GM, are the front and rear crossmembers.
But, I also use these shipping slots, with pucks, to lift. Convenience. Just an FYI.
Does anyboy know if you can jack up the Z on one side, near the center so that both front and rear wheels lift at the same time.
Looking to save time changing wheels, brakes, etc...
Saw a guy do it to his M3 at the track..
:usa:
I got a set of A&A Aluminum Rocker rails and have jacked it up in the center useing the railing as a "lift point" with no problems. Just be careful when placeing the jack on the rail so it doesent slip off and hit the kick panel.
Holy crap! I never knew that and I like to think I'm a stickler for details!
I just checked my 02 owner's manual and, sure enough, the "jacking puck slots" are NOT identified as a proper lifting location.
Guess I need to buy a low profile racing jack.
I use a 3 1/2 ton from Sears. It is heavy and requires you to drive up on blocks to get the jack under the car. That's because I use a block of wood placed on top of the jack prior to lifting. I then install the pucks, place jack stands under them and lower the car so it rests on the stands. I stil keep the jack in position for added safety.
I have a 2 1/2 ton floor jack I bought a square head for that has a rubber pad with a cross hatch pattern in it and I just jack about 3" behind the mirrors and each side lifts evenly and allows me to install the hockey pucks and lower it on jack stands.
Been doing it this way since 98 and there isn't even a mark on the paint under the side rail where I put the jack.
Just make sure the head of the jack is flat and has a rubber pad and it's far enough under the side, (the hydro formed steel frame is right under the the wrap around about 1 1/2" inboard).
If in doubt pull one of the inspection plates behind the frt. wheel and shine a flashlight down the side and you will see what I mean.
The slots everyone seems to lift at with the pucks, are not the proper, or recommended lifting points. If anything tweaks using these as lift points, any resulting damage may not be covered under warranty. I believe these are tie-downs slots for shipping. The lift points, per GM, are the front and rear crossmembers.
But, I also use these shipping slots, with pucks, to lift. Convenience. Just an FYI.
While I don't have the shop manual for my 2001 coupe in front of me as I post, I beg to differ, since I readily recall looking in the shop manual, and I'm sure the manual indicates that the "slots" are recommended, or allowed points to use for jacking.
If I remember right, I think the shop manual uses a couple different patterns of cross-hatched lines on the layout of the frame to show proper lifting points, and I think there was a difference in the cross-hatch pattern between the front and rear crossmembers and the slotted areas. However, I don't believe that one was recommended over the other, and I think both are acceptable lifting/jacking points.
That's what I do!!! Very quick and none of that body flex (I know it's probably fine but looking at my car all twisted up makes be go
Just make sure you chock wheels.
Oh, and these $60 jacking pucks every one raves about...I'll tell you that a 3"x3" square of wood cut from a 1" by whatever works just fine too if you are using the jacking points (I still lift it this way occaisionally if I only need to remove one wheel to inspect something).
The manual shows several acceptable lift areas. The main area is on the front and rear cradles.... off to the side (not in the center). The side rail were the tie downs are... are listed a optional lifting points.
Multiple referances to never lift or support the vehicle by use of the mono leaf spring.
While I don't have the shop manual for my 2001 coupe in front of me as I post, I beg to differ, since I readily recall looking in the shop manual, and I'm sure the manual indicates that the "slots" are recommended, or allowed points to use for jacking.
If I remember right, I think the shop manual uses a couple different patterns of cross-hatched lines on the layout of the frame to show proper lifting points, and I think there was a difference in the cross-hatch pattern between the front and rear cross members and the slotted areas. However, I don't believe that one was recommended over the other, and I think both are acceptable lifting/jacking points.
The Owner's Manual only list the cross members as the proper lift points. The shipping slots are probably alternate points of lift when using a shop lift, like dealers have, which lift the vehicle at all 4 points at the same time. Therefore, no tweaking of the frame. But, if these slots are used with a floor jack, an extra, and unnecessary, strain is being put on the frame.
But, then again, I could be wrong.