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Checked with tech 2, no codes and tech2 could not lock door. I can unlock and it makes noise from door module but less when trying to lock then when unlock is selected. Checked voltage going to lock motor and lock was under 1 vdc. unlock was about 10vdc.
Does this point to the door module? Any repair to module?
Almost all issues relating to doors not locking end up being because of the door lock modules. I had mine replaced under warranty a couple of years ago.
Checked with tech 2, no codes and tech2 could not lock door. I can unlock and it makes noise from door module but less when trying to lock then when unlock is selected. Checked voltage going to lock motor and lock was under 1 vdc. unlock was about 10vdc.
Does this point to the door module? Any repair to module?
Thanks
Pretty common. Yes, its probably a door module. I had mine replaced under warranty.
Mine is going in Wednesday for the same thing... intermittent driver side (lock or unlock).
When it doesn't pop the lock, I hear a faint "tick" sound, as if the relay is closing, but not completing the circuit to energize a solenoid... anyway, my GMPP is going to cover it (and I hear it is not a cheap component).
I have had 3 of these go bad in 2 different year cars. I was out of warranty on the last one, so I thought let's open the module up and see what's inside. Just 2 easy latches and it opens right up. Just a fairly simple PCB with connectors on the one edge and 4 solenoid type multi-contact relays boxes on one end. I tried the unlock/lock button so I could feel which one was clicking. I desoldered this one from the PCB and carefully popped the cover off. Wala! One of the contact sets were black from arcing. A quick clean up with a small contact file and a squirt of contact cleaner and then back together. Works like new again. For how long??? It's lasted 4 months so far...
Well, it appears I am having the same problem..I was praying it was a simple FOB issue, until I tried locking the passenger door with the driver door button and it still did not work..
I have had 3 of these go bad in 2 different year cars. I was out of warranty on the last one, so I thought let's open the module up and see what's inside. Just 2 easy latches and it opens right up. Just a fairly simple PCB with connectors on the one edge and 4 solenoid type multi-contact relays boxes on one end. I tried the unlock/lock button so I could feel which one was clicking. I desoldered this one from the PCB and carefully popped the cover off. Wala! One of the contact sets were black from arcing. A quick clean up with a small contact file and a squirt of contact cleaner and then back together. Works like new again. For how long??? It's lasted 4 months so far...
That is just what I wanted to hear. I will pull it apart this weekend and see what the contacts look like. Perhaps adding a better relay might improve it's life. I am going to check for any unused contacts on the relay to see if I can swap contacts.
I cleaned the contacts on the door latch module just this last weekend. It's been working ok since - sounds like a new relay is in the future for me too (probably cleaning the contacts got me just over the edge for now). I'm guessing since they only have one coil (?) they were cheap and failed to put in back to back Zener Diodes to save the relays (I will look when mine dies again).
yo guys~~~ i kno this is an old post..
but my the same **** is happenin to my locks..
and i went down to Chevrolet today to get them replaced..
but after i got there, i didnt cuz the friggin door control modules are $500 for 2 pieces (drivers side n passenger)
anyone know where i can get good door control modules at a better price?.. or are they just that expensive?!????
Drivers side door would not unlock so I replaced the unlock mini relay following the direction of this thread. Took me a couple of hours and saved a lot of money. Hope this helps.