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I had my first experience with the dredded col. lock two days ago. Classic systems - pull key key 10 seconds, service colum lock displays on the dash and of course the wheel won't budge. With some luck and turning the key on and off, jerking the steering wheel against the stops the problem clears. This morning same thing, except the wheel is still locked. After reading lots of posts on this subject, I also tried pulling fuse 25, but so far no luck. Does any member have any other suggestions for getting the steering wheel unlocked so I can put the CLB I just ordered in my car?
Just keep on trying everything that you're already doing. You may also want to try disconnecting the battery for a while.
When mine locked up, I tried for hours and had to have it flatbedded back home because it was on a Saturday (dealer closed).
When we were lowering it off the flatbed, it unlocked.
I had the CLB overnighted and didn't touch the car until I installed the CLB.
It has to be unlocked before installing the CLB.
Good luck.
Al.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Make sure you battery is fully charged.
Turn off everything (keep foot off the brake, close the door, turn off A/C, etc)
Do what you did before with the wheel, but this time pull down on the wheel while you jiggle it back and forth. That did the trick for me.
Most importantly, make sure your battery has a full charge.
Make sure you battery is fully charged.
Turn off everything (keep foot off the brake, close the door, turn off A/C, etc)
Do what you did before with the wheel, but this time pull down on the wheel while you jiggle it back and forth. That did the trick for me.
Most importantly, make sure your battery has a full charge.
Since you are going to have to pull the lower trim panel off anyway to install the CLB. Remove the trim panel and put a rod into the hole on the underside of the column where you can tap on it with a hammer while turning the key. A mechanic told me that when jerking the steering wheel does not work, tapping on the column where the actuator is mounted works almost everytime.
Finnally the steering wheel released. Left the battery disconected over night. Tried pulling down on the wheel and turning very hard against the stops when turning the key and this time it broke free. When I started the engine and turned the wheel lock to lock you could definately hear something clicking around in the steering column. When I turned the engine off and then restarted the car, the clicking noise disappeared when turning the wheel --- maybe the locking pin reseated itself? anyway it's off to chevrolet for their recall fix, and then install the CLB unit as soon as it comes in. What a PIA. Once again thanks for the suggestions!!!
anyway it's off to chevrolet for their recall fix, and then install the CLB unit as soon as it comes in. What a PIA. Once again thanks for the suggestions!!!
Since this is still a very highly discussed topic, I'll throw in a question that I've had rolling around in my head for a while.
What's involved in removing the actuator motor from the column. In other words, getting it completely out of the equation. I realize that it would probably have to remain electrically plugged in, so the BCM would be happy. But if it was physically removed from the steering column, and secured aside, wouldn't that solve the problem forever?
leadfoot4-- if my steering wheel didn't release this morning that is what I had planned to do -- disable the locking mechanism. If I understand the CLB device correctly ??? you plug the BCM leads into that device instead of the the colomun locking motor and the BCM gets the signal it is looking for and the locking mechanism is never activated again. The benifit of the CLB to me -- is you get the same result and you don't have to take the steering wheel apart. I will let you know when I install it this week.
What's involved in removing the actuator motor from the column. I realize that it would probably have to remain electrically plugged in, so the BCM would be happy. But if it was physically removed from the steering column, and secured aside, wouldn't that solve the problem forever?
Don't think that would work.
If you leave the actuator plugged in where it cannot physically lock the column, and it sticks in the locked position, the BCM will still shut off the fuel.
You need the CLB or Harness K relay in the circuit to send the correct signal back to the BCM no matter what the actuator does.
Don't think that would work.
If you leave the actuator plugged in where it cannot physically lock the column, and it sticks in the locked position, the BCM will still shut off the fuel.
You need the CLB or Harness K relay in the circuit to send the correct signal back to the BCM no matter what the actuator does.
But doesn't that only happen if you've had the recall done? (I've gotten 3 recall notices so far)
But doesn't that only happen if you've had the recall done? (I've gotten 3 recall notices so far)
I think if you will read the complete description of the problem in the recall, it says that the vehicles were always designed to shut off the fuel if the BCM could not determine the position of the actuator or if the actuator was in the locked position. GM found that under certain low voltage conditions, the actuator could be in the locked position and the PCM would not send the signal to shut off the fuel. I think the recall just changes the logic so that the fuel will be shutoff even under low voltage conditions.
This is in the recall information from GM:
"In the event that the Electronic Column Lock (ECL) fails to unlock when the driver starts the engine of 1997-2004 model year Corvettes, the Body Control Module (BCM) sends a signal to the PCM to inhibit fuel so, when the vehicle travels (reverse or forward) at the speed of about 2 MPH, the vehicle engine stalls. However, if the power supply to the PCM is interrupted or voltage is low, the PCM resets during engine starts and does not inhibit fuel. The driver is capable of moving the vehicle with a locked steering column. "
I see what you're saying, however I don't have all that much faith in the CLB. I had one in my car for a day, last year, and it didn't hold the actuator's pin totally retracted. I started getting a "ratcheting" noise when I turned the steering wheel. Took the CLB out, noise went away. Knock on wood, I've been OK so far....
I know that I've mentioned this before, and I apologize for the repetition, but not everyone reads all of the discussions.
I see what you're saying, however I don't have all that much faith in the CLB. I had one in my car for a day, last year, and it didn't hold the actuator's pin totally retracted. I started getting a "ratcheting" noise when I turned the steering wheel. Took the CLB out, noise went away. Knock on wood, I've been OK so far....
.
I installed the Harness K kit in my 04 Z06, which included removing the lockplate. (Or you could re-install your CLB and remove the lockplate, so that it is not possible for the pin to lock the column and the BCM is still satisfied.) To remove the lockplate, you need the smaller plate that comes in the Harness K kit. You could probably find someone with an extra plate that just installed the harness but did not want to go to the trouble to remove the steering wheel to remove the lockplate.
Isn't it fun to discuss column locks over and over?
It is since I know I am pretty safe. My lockplate is gone so my column cannot lock, and if my relay fails, all I have to do is replace the relay. I don't have to worry about having to get the actuator back into the unlocked position.
Lots of input -- thanks -- put the CLB in tonight -- a little bit of a PIA but everything seemrd to work correctly. sofar so good - hope this problem is done.